alexideways

Yeah! sure, just to show you, take a small square of cardboard and hold it a 45 deg. angle in front of you and flip it over, you'll see that it still points in the SAME direction.

Hi, I'v been searching for a good MAF for my RB25DET for a while and noticed this... The RB25 uses the same MAF as the V6 Maximas so, you can avoid the "Drift, Initial D" tax and get a MAF for way cheaper. Here's a list to help find the right part. The first series of # is always 22680 for the Nissan MAFs, the other #s and the color of the tag changes. Produced by JECS Japan. 1: Q45: (90mm), {Yellow tag}, /#:22680-61U00-A36-000-[P60] 2: RB20, 25, DE, DET Series 1, 89-94 V6 Maxima, M30: (75mm), {Purple tag}, /# 22680-16V00-A36-000-[N60] 9: RB20, 25, DE, DET Series2, (75mm), {Green tag}, /# 22680-02U00-A36-000-[J60] 3: 95-99 Max.: (75mm), {light pink tag}, /# 22680-31U00-A36-000-[E60] 4: J30, 90-96 Z32: 75mm, {Orange tag}, /# 22680-30P00-A36-000-[N62] 5: 95-99 Sentra, 94.5-98 200SX: (50mm), {(Red) Dark Pink tag}, /#22680-IM200-JA36-606-[bA1] Produced by ????? 6: 91-94 Sentra:(50mm) , {Green tag}, /# 22680-55Y00-JA36-000-[bA0] Produced by Hitashi. 7: KA24DE, SR20DET: (50mm), {no tags}, /# 22680-40F00-AFH50-[04] 8: Pulsar NX CA16DE: (50mm), {no tags}, /# 22680-6?A00-AFH45-[84] 10: 93-95 Altima: (50mm), {no tags}, /# 22680-D9000-JA36-605-[GA0] (no good pics. for this one.) The 75mm units seems to be all the same, they are just wired differently. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Hope it can help.

Hi guys, I was just tying around with the many RB & L24 parts leying around in my appartement and noticed that... If you want a better or replacement clutch fan, the RB's is a direct bolt on, the only thing is, the RB's fan sticks out a bit more than the L's so what you need to do is unbolt the fan from the clutch, flip it around and bolt it back on the clutch, bolt it to your engine and voilà , better fan.

YOU WISH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I've been waiting for years... how about a 240sx successor, they had the 240 at the same time as the 300 so, why not make a little sister for the 350... YOU WISH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But, I will not hold my breath.

+ platinum plugs make you spend more money for nothing cause, the platinum or iridium only needs to be on the ground side of the plug. Cause, it's when the current leaves the part that it brings metal particles with it. If you take a good look at OEM GM plugs (with wasted spark system) you can see that there's only a touche of platinum on the ground side of the plug. 2 plugs have the platinum on the center electrode and 2 plugs have it on the side electrode. Guess why, it's not needed on the + side and with the price of platinum, they can ave quite a bundle after a few 100 000 cars.

Did a timing belt job only to realise that I had reinstalled the old belt. The guy had had the belt for a long time and the new one was dirtier than the old one.

You ca get good prices on Wolf ECUs Ron???

Is this a special price that only YOU can get or is it the normal price??? Dr_Hunt??? How much is that TIG welder you're talkin' about???

Repost but, awesome nevertheless.

Harder than using the search function...

Any pictures of that????? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- After searching the J/Y for brake parts I came up with this list. S12+8 calipers donor list: 1- 86-88 4WD PICK-UP 2- 86-89 4Runner 3- 79-90 Landcruiser. Hope it helps.

No, my press. plate cover is Grey and I have a one puck, unsprung center disc. I also had a NISMO Flywheel with that. As for Shea, I haven't called him yet as I only have a cell phone and calling another country is quite expensive. You have an e-mail I could reach him at? Thanks for your time. Alex.

I need to try that someday. LOL Or, it could spell: A GOOD OLPHART...

Well, it does show you differences way quicker than if you had to go under the car and turn those spring perches 1/4 turn, just to see if it's better. It's not dead accurate but, it gives you a good idea about the physics involved and let you experiment and learn without having to buy expensive components.

Shame on you, you should wear your belt at ALL times.

:pVery interested!!! You should make one big file, that you'd put on a CD and sell it for $4. This way, not even being $5 people will buy it and you'll get to have a bit more money for those long 20 weeks.

Sure Doodly did, before I broke my stupid MadzCatz steering wheel's gas pedal. Now that I played with the wheel, I just don't have much fun with the hand controle anymore...

Well, the RB25DET that's in my living room runs but, the car is in pieces in a friend's garage. I've ridden it for 2 years and dissasembled it when winter came and it was time for her to hibernate anyways. Hope to have her back in one piece this summer.

Never had a car on the rotisserie before but, seems to me that I would probably weld in some braces in the frame to keep it in shape untill it's ready to roast. Then, you'd rmove the braces as you move along restoring the shell. I'll let more experienced guys shim in now.

:cry2:It breaks my heart. I feel your pain. Yes, it's worth it.

Wow, thanks MrFancypants, now I just neeed to find a good translation software and I'm good. Anyone would know of a good website for this????

Or you could sell 1 of your grenaded Diff. to me as I can't find one anywhere lol. For the Helical, you can also try the OBX unit which is about $380 on e-bay, it's a Quaïf knockoff. It's been reported, on this site, as an good unit with sloppy assembly and weak Belleville springs. You can get the springs from McMasters for pretty cheap. Just do a search on OBX and you'll find at least 2 very good treads about it.

Thanks Tony, you're grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreat.

I'll raise it one notch higher. http://www.bullsballs.com/flesh/truck/balls.html