ARZ_

When I finished recording I thought it would be worse than it turned out. LOL

Yea I didnt ask about the car, thanks for sharing that. Yea I thought that exact same thing!!!

Clifton and I went out to take some video and I captured this with my Digital cam. Sorry for the shakeyness I had to shift, I probably should have used the other hand to hold the camera. Oh well next time. The video I roll into it a couple of seconds later than Clifton but you get the idea. I have more video from this evening, I just have to get it converted. Me vs. a Ferrari 460, the guy was a great sport he went 3 times in a row. Got the whole thing on video, I just gotta convert it. Pretty lucky for just a regular thursday evening. GOOD TIMES!!!!

I think thats perfect, if you have to have a piece of CF between the license plate and the license plate light then you should have plenty left when you cut out the hole for one of the tail lights. Besides if he wanted to he could save on shipping costs cutting it in half and putting the two pieces in a smaller box. OK I vote for this guy to make Carbon Fiber factory shaped 240 Z door panels. If they were simple enough you could make the 240 Z and the 280 Z out of the same mold.

Carbon fiber is way less fun to cut than fiberglass. Imagine Carbon fibers stuck in your skin instead of Glass fibers. Is he interested in making other CF panels?

I think MSA actually sells them. I thought their orange car near the food had them and the hood and the carbon ZG flares too.

Very nice, I didn't count on power windows. I realize this was quite an effort but I would like to re-new the request for factory shaped Carbon Fiber door panels without speaker holes. One of the things I really love about the factory interior door panels is the fact that they have that concave contour throughout the entire door. I think thats a classic shape I love and couldn't do without when it came to a replacement for the original . If you could retain that exact factory shape with Carbon Fiber I would gladly put down my money right this moment. I realize Carbon Fiber is quite a bit more expensive. But even with that in mind I would still be ready to put my money down in an instant. In My Opinion, if you had 100 people ready to buy custom door panels for a 240/280 Z I would be willing to bet that a majority of people would rather have stock looking/shaped Carbon Fiber door panels. Chances are the only difference between the 240 Z and the 280 Z panel is where the hole for the window crank is and where the holes for the retention clips go. ^^^Please chime in if you know this NOT to be true^^^ Please let us know if there is any possibility of Carbon Fiber parts from you guys. Again, my hats off to you guys and I hope you sell a ton of them if thats what you want.

Mine is a 71, it has much less rust than yours but you work is commendable. I dont plan on stripping it down near as far as you did. Nice work!!! I think the color combo with all the red next to the white will be striking.

Like this???? Notice the feature line at the bottom of the door isn't perfectly straight!!!

^^^You dont install the stainless steel trim pieces until you are done^^^ I have installed more than a dozen windsheilds and rear hatch glasses. Use silicone spray lubricant AFTER you have the rubber gasket installed on the glass. The best medium I have found to get the gasket inside the car is a telephone cord (the straight kind). Install the bottom of the windshield into the groove work your way up eash side, go about 12 inches on each side to make sure its centering itself OK. you kind want the glass to bias itself towards (looking like) the windhield is a little too low. This will help you install the top and corners. Be sure to stretch and pull the rubber enough to make sure the corners end up where they are suposed to be. Use the Silicone lubricant only where the cord goes. Windex the crap out of the window inside and out once its in then you can use that same silicone lube to install the stainless trim pieces. I couldnt hurt to take a jewelers file to the edges of the stainless trim pieces to knock off the razor sharp edges this will help to not rip the gasket when installing the trim. Its not that hard, but if you have to push on the glass, use your flat palm and a (very firm) slap seems to work much better than smooth pressure.

Same old BHG, if your not familiar with the term, then you don't own a 7M, and be thankful, BHG = Blown head gasket. 7m's are notorious for BHG's, Matter of fact I was pushing it so hard I broke a ring land on the piston also. The next motor was @ around 21 psi and going strong and my water injection starved and then I broke another piston ring land. This latest motor is forged and has a bunch of safety measures to make sure it cuts boost or notifies me of knock if I have any problems. I am running a 2mm metal head gasket. I will have to update the photos, I replaced the entire front suspension and repainted the engine compartment and plated every nut and bolt when I put it back together. The engine, engine compartment and front suspension are show quality. I'm very happy with how it came out.

If you run AZC full front Control arm setup you wont have any problems at all. Heres a photo of my front control arm setup from AZC. And one from www.arizonazcar.com website

Wow, somehow my subscription to this thread died. Yea that might be me, I did race a Twin Turbo Viper and a BPU Viper (exhaust and some other stuff) at the same time for a half a dozen times. Both guys were really cool. But I didn't win against the TT Viper. I decided to make a post about it here since several people have asked about it. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=632353#post632353

Yea and hopefully the last!!! Personally I think the entire suspension on the s130 was a step backwards from the s30 chassis. Its heavier, it has worse suspension, and its uglier. Oh wait it had better A/C, (if you didn't get the automatic climate control) theres one plus to using that chassis. BTW shesha thats not a Z its a ZX, Im surprised no one has pointed that out yet, theres a huge difference between the 2.

Holy Hack Master Flash, why would you bother with all that waste of welding wire. If you mowed lawns to pay for it you would still be light years ahead getting this stuff, and bolting it on. If you like to weld that much you should try rock crawling. http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html

Take a leather belt (like one you wear) fold it in half like your going to make that snapping sound. Hold the belt in your hands (while standing) biceps vertical, fore arms horizontal. Bring you knee up quick, stop it with your belt. Now imagine your hands are fastened to the tunnel with no rubber mount. And your knee is the front of the diff. Thats exactly whats happening. No real damage done in the short term. In the long term you could destroy your moustache bar bushings or possably break the moustache bar itself, but that would take a long time. Definately not worth over looking a good Z for. Hope that explains it.

I experienced the exact same thing driving Cliftons car at the drag strip. On the street and at freeway speeds above 80 it feels very solidly planted, but at the dragstrip felt real sketchy until it was below 80. Hell on the trip up to speed (right at 80+ the tires started to break loose all the way thru 3rd gear) the car felt so sketchy Im glad Clifton gave me the heads up. I havent drag raced my own car (at the dragstrip) yet but it sure felt a little more solid and planted and the like, while doing similarly accelerated driving (Represenative of a Drag race run). I think that might be the case, under good rear traction and the conditions that exist at a dragstrip, this might just be how the old school 240 chassis/body work feels at speed.

Check this guys site. http://www.driftmotion.com I think he is doing exactly that except trying to Turbo that block. His main objective is to increase displacement for a turbo motor.

^^^Hes RHD dude!^^^ Sweet, Same question as Mike, also what psi? And what are you running for managment? Just curious. Again, big Kudos for doing something different!!!

Yea 35 Psi on a 383 should net you 1200 HP or more. Unless your only going to rev it to 3K the you might make 500 hp at 3k LOL

Im not trying to talk you out of MS but with all the GM ECU's like LS1 edit and the like why dont you go with something like that. Its cheap its proven and it should be a plug and play deal. I think there are plenty more that are GM specific ECU's that are cheap and easy, for use with GM V8's and GM wiring harnesses, that might be the reason for lack of response.

Im looking for a boost controller that will control boost differently in each gear. IE: 14psi in 1st gear, 18psi in 2nd, 24psi in 3rd and 28 in 4th and 5th. My trans has a speed sense output. I have an AVCR and the theory is that with a tap into the tach output and a tap into the speed sensor the AVCR can figure out what gear the vehicle is in and support a gear based boost control. The problem is, even with 275 40 17 drag radials the boost comes on so violently that the tires are ripped loose in first, second, and sometimes 3rd gear. If MS could give me a gear based boost that would be the best. Can this be done or can anybody come up with any ideas on how to achieve this?

Id be glad to send or post a ton of photos I already have hosted. I would love to see another one. Please dont put it into a rusty chassis, we have tons of good donors out here in AZ. AK-Z: Wiring wasnt that bad, even though Clifton helped with mine, he wasnt under the glove box for that long, What did it need Clifton Hot, Switched hot, Ground, Fuel pump relay switch, A/C trigger I think that was it. The supra engine harness is pretty well seperated from the chassis harness. Hell rewiring my headlights to work on a relay and my fan to work with the A/C on and a thermostatically controlled switch were about the same difficulty. During the swap I got out the TSRM and labeled every wire and when Clifton saw it he said (something to the effect of) "What did you do all that for" I said "So we would know where they all go." He said "we only need like 4 wires." Oh and the Tach sense, it will probably be easiest to use the guts of the Supra Tach in the Z tach, that was easy too. Bummer about your Supra, but if you do put that motor in a Z you will be blown away at how fast it is. Vipers, Vetts, Bikes, Clifton is very modest, this conversion is SHOCKINGLY fast, dont even think about driving your Z car with stock brakes afterwards. For the first 3 months I thought the 3-4 Vipers I had raced were letting off the throttle, Vette guys (the ones that would race me) were laughably slow (I thought they were letting off too). I even raced a C6 ZO6 from about 55-130 and beat him no problem also. If you already know all about the 7MGTE I would say you have already crossed the biggest hurdle. The 7M with tranny fully dressed only weighs 100lbs more than the L motor fully dressed and it will pass emissions with flying colors. The A/C lines just cut off the rubber bits and take both ends into a NAPA or a Tractor place and they can crimp new hose of the proper length on. Clutch slave? easy Motor mounts? easy, hell I will sell you some. Crossmember? I will sell you one of those too if you need Speedo?!? hooks right up to the stock cable Drive shaft? 150-250 at any drive shaft shop Fan? run an electric one. Fuel? Mount the Walbro in the stock Z tank, and both of us are on the stock Z Fuel lines. DO IT, DO IT, DO IT!!!

^^^Wow thats a clean engine compartment^^^ I went back a went back a few pages to see if there were any more photos after paint or more details of under the fenders (can you say thread JACK)!!! Anyways if you have more photos of the car after paint I would love to see em. The car looks beautiful!!! I saw others questions that made me laugh, and yes, if your first question about a motor swap is "Was it hard/expensive/better/difficult/fast?" then the answer is YES!!! I didnt get a chance to see the whole thread, but did you have to move the stock shifter tower? I will go thumb thru it now.

The only drawback on the above I can see is if the dude ran an old style 280 bushings and let the diff twist like JM states it might work the diff mount crossmember evemtually but depending on the HP/TQ and amount of use you might never see that type of failure. Thats just my opinion. I can believe that, but only with the caveat that the mustache bar had the stock smushy 280Z style bushings. I agree that given that much play and hard mounted to the diff cross member would generate enough movement axially to eventually fatigue the crossmember. I believe if the old style 240Z mustache bar bushings (the solid ones above and below)would radically decrease the likelihood of a crossmember failure.