ARZ_

Heres my take: On an S30 to suggest that any solid front diff mount failed, because it was asked to limit axial twisting (about the axis of the pinion) is silly. Yes the Moustache bar does limit the twisting of the diff and it does so very well because the levers are very long. To suggest that the moustache bar is not designed to flex for and aft OR try to rotate about the axis of the output shafts is silly. A solid diff mount is perfectly suited to eliminating pinion jacking bcause they are singly mounted in the center and that (single) fastener will fail before any other component in the whole system. If you have a solid diff mount and you are going to change it for any other reason than "it makes too much noise for you" you are wasting your time. The point of diff torsion is such a minimal concern is illustrated perfectly by a current day rock crawler. No where else is the use of unlimited torque applied to feather soft springs in an environment so visibly apparent. Take a Jeep with soft leaf springs drive it in low range (extermely slowly) straight into an obsticle that stops forward progress. Shift into 2wd The first and most obvious change is the rear pinion angle, the nose of the pinion jacks skyward radically, only when pushed to its (the springs) limits does this torque start to exert on the roll of the vehicle. If controlling the roll of the vehicle were the most improtant order of business, then the sway bar would have been employed at the dragstrip and in rockcrawling long before the axle anti wrap device. Yes the 280ZX and the 300ZX and every rear independent nissan suspension does control the roll of the diff by solidly mounting it to the rear subframe. But limiting its anti wrap by fastening it as far from its rotational axis THE OUTPUT SHAFTS (ie; the axle) is the most important order of business. I think we all agree, that on all the later model nissan independant rear suspensions the rear diff mount is just for holding up the rear diff and damping shock associated with dropping the clutch and other drive train related shock. The torque load placed on the rubber mount in tension is just the weakest link and a solid diff mount is the easiest and cheapest way to eliminate this anti wrap. I do love seeing everybodys creative and sometimes crazy solutions. I think we can all agree the stock diff mount design SUCKS!!!!

looking at your Sig... You made 305 rwhp on a t3/t4? Is that the stock ZX turbine? Also what are the AR's for bothe hot and cold side (just curious). If so... Excellent!!!

The M90 installed on GM 3.8 liter supercharged cars has a Vacuum bypass valve, (no customization necessary) open during moderate to light throttle and closed during WOT this would be the easiest to accomidate decent mileage. Fuel injection would make worlds of difference in drivability and milage also. Get the AZC 4 barrel build an adapter to mount the GM eaton M90 supercharger on it and you could probably even use the huge GM Throttle body they used on the gm 3.8 liters. Only problem would be all the gm SC cars were FWD and the throttle body was on the back of the supercharger, but I still think there would be enough room. Good thing is that you could increase the dia of the pulley to slow it down and still get real decent boost and make the SC live a little longer, get a MHG and keep it under 10~12 PSI and you wont need an intercooler

Jmortensen you are correct! Visualizing a front view looking aft thru the car, Draw 3 simple points that represent the pivots of the front suspension. Position 1 is where the control arm attaches to the cross member. Position 2 is where the ball-joint at the bottom of the strut is. Position 3 is the nut at the top of the strut (believe it or not that "IS" a pivot and not only axially about the strut axis either). Now draw 2 lines, from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3. Now compress the suspension (move point 2 up). From the time point 2 goes above point 1 (you are correct JM) you still gain camber. The area below horizontal will have a "rising rate" to the camber and the area above will have a "falling rate" to the camber. Above, you will still gain camber, just not as fast, matter of fact, the higher you go the slower you gain it. If it was possible to compress the suspension far enough you could "loose" camber but point 2 would have to be raised high enough to make the angle between the lines greater than 90 degrees. I dont think this is possible on either end of the S30 suspension. BTW I have cut and torched those insulators apart and they would never withstand a tension load for very long, if at all. You would never want to install rubber inside the strut cartrige tube. Maybe delrin, maybe an untra high durometer rubber almost plastic. But then you arent putting 100% of the road forces into the strut. And to make it effective thats what you need to do.

Sorry I dont have a good picture of the front but that tab is attaced to chassis and the strut tube and a hardline goes to the stock brake caliper. Rear brakes

Lots will disagree but by the time you get most of the components for your Toy 4 piston caliper kit you will be within 200 dollars of a Wilwood brake kit that is better quality and weighs a bunch less and looks Hella sweet. Jeep Doors are a whole lot simpler than Z doors. Also I have never seen someone raise a Jeep door. Not saying it hasent been done but welding a door closed isnt the best way to make a Z stronger. Also Jeep half doors dont have windows in them to roll down. Not sure where your going with that one??? Thats not an oil pump, its a remote oil filter. A remote oil pump would have to be powered by some serious motor. If you had a remote sump it would be gear driven and have multiple return/sump lines and big hoses (more than 2) attached to the bottom of the oil pan (like the fittings on the AZC oil pan) http://www.arizonazcar.com/pan.html . While you are there look at the brakes.

I Tig welded my V-band flange on and it shows signs of cracking (very small cracks on the casting at the edge of the weld in the heat effected zone) around the weld on the casting but its not leaking and I never pre-heated anything. If it has any issues I will pre heat it and do it again. I know pre-heating is the way to go but I was in a hurry. Not all turbos have a bolt on flange. I have owned several that you had to weld to.

Oh my gawd!!!! is FIVE HUNDERD AND SEVENTY FOOT POUNDS OF REAR WHEEL TORQUE!!!! I fail to see the difference between Inline 6 torque and V8 torque. I can tell you also from experience any relatively rust free Z unibody is plenty rigid in factory form. I have personally cut several Z's into convertables and yes there was some torsional flex but never enough to let the doors open, especially when properly adjusted. Knowing the state of most rusty old 240 mechanisims I would be very surprised to see a documented case of repeated door openings on a properly adjusted, lubricated, and SHUT 240 door, as a result of ENGINE TORQUE. If any of you have been around 240's long enough you have experienced an apparently shut 240 door that came open while swinging a right hand turn. An adjusted, lubed, latched, UN-worn mechanism will not open no matter how much the body is torqued. I worked in a "Z only" junk yard for several years and have conducted my own stress tests on many Z cars and can vouch for the strength of the door latch first hand via the fork lift test. How many can say that!!! I havent Dynoed mine lately but based on my 21 psi 3.0 liter motor and street races with Clifton I am very close to the 500 HP mark also and can attest to the strength and torsional rigidity of the factory UNMODIFIED chassis, and drive-train, I heard all of those wives tales about so-called "BENT V8 Z cars" "BECAUSE OF THE TORQUE" but I have still never seen it in 22 years being around Z cars. An un-rusted 240 Z is plenty strong. If your thinking of restoring or radically modifing a 240 Z your money is better spent flying out to Arizona, Texas, California, or Maybe even Florida for a weekend or two to locate a suitable rust free chassis. Think of the money and time you will spend repairing a cancerous rust bucket, then think of how much a couple of plane tickets and a few months of research will cost and how much happier you will be with your rust free vehicle.

I want to keep the factory oil pressure sender and install a mechanical one in the glove box incase I see an anomlie. Uh I think I got it solved!!! Mentally anyways.

Honestly I steal all the bolts from under the dash board theres a ton of them they are in perfect pristine shape have a beautiful yellow zink plating, they are Nissan and they are the perfect size and length for a lot of other applications, remember they are not grade 8 so dont substitute them where those are required (like on the rear suspension) but if you had to buy them in a store they would cast plenty more than free. Also some of the shifters had that adjustable throw pivot you can turn upside down for a short shifter. (sanford and son theme song playing in the background), I have it in ".wav" form if anybody can host audio for me.

Is this a Z specific radiator? Or are you going to have to drill the holes and weld the tabs on? I live In Phoenix/Mesa and I have had several of his radiators on other vehicles. Nice stuff but..... more later..... LETS SEE SOME PIC'ssss!!!!

I have owned more than half a dozen of both vehicles and have (personally, me, myself, I) turbocharged each motor. So what Im saying is I have a very good working knowledge of each motor and what it takes to modify both. yes the redline on the Jeep is 5k. Do you plan on using the Jeep Auto Tranny? Dont even think of adapting the Datsun Tranny as it would never work because of the redline. Is the Jeep a 4X4 or 2wd? If you own this motor already that is a plus but not much of one. The Jeep motor only makes 195-205 HP and thats at the crank. They feel fast in an XJ because they only weigh 2800 lbs (its a unibody remember) Trust me for the same ammount of aggrivation there are way better powerplants, why do you think it is that people put Chevy V8 in Jeeps also. It is the cheepest HP per dollar of any motor on the planet. The easiest HP on the Z is the ZXT manifold the right combo head and block/pistons, a MHG a bigger turbo than stock and the right furl injection. Look for a complete ZXT powerplant/doner put a bigger Turbo on it right away and a big intercooler you wont be dissappointed. Proving others wrong is the fuel of many a mans ambitions, but I wouldnt do this and I already own all the very coolest Jeep motors and parts there are. those parts will eventually propel this. I wouldnt do it, the motor is not cheep enough and dosent have as much potential as an L28.

If you can beat a 2004 GSX R1000 in a roll on from 40mph to 140mph then you can beat me. If you own a Miata and can out drive 70% of the people at an Auto X event thru a bunch of cones then you can probably beat me. 7MGTE @ 21psi, Huge Intercooler w 3 inch plumbing to and from, T4 60-1, Walbro 255 pump, 3.73:1 LSD, 17x8 w/ 245 45 17's fronts and 17x9 w/ 275 40 17 Drag radials in the rear, Aluminum drive shaft, 3 inch full Stainless steel Mandrel bent exhaust, total weight 2500 lbs. I havent Dynoed it since I turned it up to 21 psi nor have I done an official 1/4 mile, will post when I have numbers. Auto X front long shot Rear brakes installed Front Iso IC Exhaust rear

IF THE MONOBALL RATTLES IN A NEW PART, THE MACHINIST/MANUFACTURER DID NOT TAKE THE TIME TO MAKE SURE THEY FIT TIGHT ENOUGH (IE: he did not calculate/specify how much material the anodizing process would/should add). I engineer parts (interference/press fit) like this for a living that have a far higher consequence for failure than just a rattling front or rear end. Further more the thickness of the Snap ring must be rigourosly controlled and installed in the proper direction and also pressed into the groove if you are to manufacture a rattle free monoball assembly. MONOBALLS THEMSELVES DO NOT RATTLE UNLESS THEY ARE WORN AND NEED TO BE REPLACED, "LOAD" OR "NO-LOAD". I agree the Thrust/torrington bearing is a pretty way to reduce "STEERING" friction, but if it rattles then it is poorly engineered also. Surely I could come up with a way to eliminate this rattle if I designed with a Thrust/torrington bearing. My initial design is for the rear. I also agree a Momoball isnt optimum in axial load but these are engineered for over 5000 pounds axially and and teflon lined (IE: for lubrication). Thats twice the weight of the vehicle on one corner, and most manufacturers quote about a 1/3rd safety margin (multiply 5000 lbs by 3). It will work in the front with a few extra parts. I will share this when the design is complete. I will complete it sooner if ther is any REAL interest.

I have been lurking for a while on this subject and I have a few things to add 1: here is a few photos of my front AZC camber plate installed. No, they are not the straight forward installation they are cracked up to be. I hear they are working on that. There is plent of camber adjustment when you work out all the installation clearance issues. Also the mono ball is rattle free. If yours rattles from another manufacturer, then they dont know what they are doing. 2: I am currently in the process of manufacturing a kit that will let you install an infinately adjustable camber plate with out forcing you to hack and weld on your strut towers. My main motivation for this design was to preserve the factory look of my interior. Its obvious simplicity lends itself to a front install also. I have several details to work out before I sell these, I will try to post a photo tonight if anyone is interested. It looks like it will be a few weeks before I am ready to sell production models, but if there is any interest I will rush the design. The easiest way to describe the modification is to say that you will only be required to drill 2 extra holes to install these camber plates. Fire me a PM if your interested in a truely unique design that dosent force you to hatchet your strut towers. If I considered my front install "not good enough" then you can just imagine how the rear looks (from a clean install perspective)

Heres a shot of the Toyota 7mgte in my 71 240. I just bolted everything together (kinda) ZERO tuning stock injectors and everything A/F ratios look great and it puts 335 to the rear wheels at 10 creeping to 12.5psi Since I got the Dyno out of the way I started turning up the boost to 16 PSI HOLY CRAP what a difference. Let my Dad drive it this weekend and his hands were shaking after one 3/4 throttle blast in 2nd gear. Its scarry fast. plan view complete motor Front Iso IC, 24x12x4 with 3 inch in and out

Nope, he busted his A$$ thru the whole summer with a marginal swamp cooler. Clifton is a stud.

Who cares about the paint (Just kidding). THAT CAR IS SO GOD DAMN FAST none of you would believe it. Runs perfect idles perfect breezes thru emissions without even raising an eyebrow. I know because I followed him thru (emissions). And it has perfect street manors if you keep your foot out of it. But if you keep your foot IN IT, Holy $hit is it fast. In first and second if "YOU" keep it floored long enough to get full boost 3400-3600 it will hit the rev limiter faster than you can let off the gas and push the clutch in. You cant even watch the tach its that fast. I have driven it and it "is" SILLY FAST!!! Clifton has perfect (shift) timing and plenty of practise, and this car is unbelievable in his hands. I am probably one of the only ones on this board that has seen the car in person, and you guys wouldnt believe it. Clifton, post photos of all the detail like all the door trim and the door jams the freshly zinc plated door strikers and all the new rubber hood and door bump stops the complete rear hatch seal kit, the powdercoated (black) stainless trim around the windsheild and and hatch glass the new rubber inside and out in the corner windows, THIS CAR IS SOO CLEAN YOU WILL DROOL ON IT!!! The first time I went for a ride in it @ about the 500 RWHP level I was giddy as a school girl. When it makes full boost in 3rd gear (@55-60) it pulls so hard (all the way to 90+ or so) honestly feels like a 300 pound dude is pushing you back in your seat with his palms, forcing you to sit back. Every ounce of this car is AWESOME Oh and BTW one of the reasons I got to see it so soon is because he came over to my house to weigh it. Another friend let me use his Longacre scales and his car tipped the scales at under 2500 pounds when we took all the crap out (jack, tire, changin crap, extinguisher, bla, bla) So think about THAT! Almost 600 HP definately more than 550 RWHP in a 2500 pound car. Once I cools off (here in AZ) Clifton and I will go get some video of just how impressive this car is. Lets see those other photos of the details.

On3go Got It!!!

You guys are crazy I have seen several people make well over 300 to the rear wheels even with the stock fuel injection. All you need is a bigget turbo and an Intercooler. The Stock Injection will need some reworking and eventually replacing but it can be done. BTW I have a rebuilt t3/t4 for sale. Pm me if you want Check Cliftons sig page better yet heres the link http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Z.html Notice the L28 Z

I have I t3/t4 that will bolt up that I was planning on selling on Ebay shortly I have heard the make between 300 and 400. I also have a Volvo intercooler that might fit closely I have to check email me and I can email you a photo or two. It was recently rebuilt and its definately a big improvment over the stock ZX Turbo. Put T3/T4 Turbo in the subject line, Zimmerle1@cox.net

Congrats on all your work complete, I know the feeling well. To bad you dont live here in AZ, nothing makes me and my passengers smile bigger than when I hand a Corvette owner their A$$. Well... Servin a Viper owner is pretty satisfying too. Congrats, Im waiting for the weather to cool off before I go the the 1/4 mile or the Dyno myself.

Yea I was watching that show last night and there was a 70 Orange Z with the tailgate vents and bumpers like mine and it was a feature of the show, this girl was interested in buying one and the photo flashed on her computer, she got all excited, then she met the guy and took it for a test drive, he was telling her about the car and that it had a 2.4 liter OHC and she blurted out that it had 2 side draft Hitachi carbs. Then they got out to look over the car again and he was going to driver her back to her work and focused in on the door lock knob missing when he shut the door behind her. Then he kidnapped her and took her for a drive.... Later in the show they showed a Z magazine and the investigators asked her brother if she was into Z's. It was kinda cool seeing that much of the story revlove around the Z. You hardly ever seem on TV at all, let alone part of the story. The show was suposed to take place in Seattle.

Thanks for the details. How long before your car runs? Have you ever considered taking it to the west Coast nationals? If so hope to see you there next year. AZ

On my 7m conversion, the speedo was plug and play. If the 2jz has a hall effect, maybe the 7m speedo drive will swap into the newer toy tranny. I do Jeep stuff too and that trick works for old Jeep speedo outputs to new tcase swaps or vice versa. The diameter and mount of the speedo drive is identical wether they used a conventional cable or 2 wires like the new stuff. Good luck and let us know what you do. Keeper coming the parts look great. Now for the plumbing (the most time consuming part in my opinion).