zgeezer

I suppose swapping the 4.1 r&p is one way of doing it; but, why not just pull the LSD out of one and install it into the 4.1 differential. I presume the 4.1 is a sound differential. G

You know, if you are serious about using this style scoop; drive on out I10 past Palm Springs to Indio/Bermuda Dunes. Bring a tape measure and I'll pull this down off the rack and you can take measurements off the original. I'll need a week's notice. g

I have the photos you need, but I've not been able to fathom all the mysteries of the new Hybridz software. However, you can go to my gallery at page 4 for three photos of the scoop placed over a 280z hood for some idea of perspective. g g

Yeah, I do have an alternative to spending $21.00 to purchase the JTR temp housing bushing: buy the JTR Datsun/Chevrolet Conversion Manual for about $30.00, available at JEGS and other places. Read it. On or about page 3-10 you will see a drawing and instructions on how to modify a common brass pipe bushing. You could do it yourself or pay a machinist $30.00 and have it done. If you google "fuel pump safety switch" you will find a number of places that sell these switches: it does not have to be Chrysler. Look here for Jeg's site. G

You could convert everything up front to LS1 and move the alternator down low. My solution of the moment is to whack a long hole into the hood centered over both the alternator and intake and cover it up with a Datsun competition hood scoop that I stole from a member here a couple of years ago. Simple trade: his scoop for a complete R200 LSD with 1/2 shafts. [Definition of a perfect trade: When the party of the first part and the party of the second part each reach, separately, an unexpressed and unshared joyful opinion that he/she/it has "screwed" the other.] g

Yep, Ford hung them on 69-71 or so big block mustangs: Think Shelby 500, but Ford has them on non Shelby Mustangs also. They look good. I think they were part of a GT styling level. G

SBC into Jaguars make sense: good looking car with engines that are expensive to repair and electronics that are less than reliable. Here's my choice: GM/Ford 6 Speed transaxle (Pontiac G-6) mated to a 5.3 L GenIII aluminum 300 +hp engine: think new front driver Impala SS. There are kits available to mount these in a Fiero.... why not the Ferrarri. What is the mantra for Hybridz?.... Oh, yes; "Parts is parts". g

Actually, I have the .38.... an old Smith and Wesson with a "long barrel", load as hell. This big ugly is now mine... no going back. For the Ford archeologists in this forum, please help me determine if this engine has anything...cam, heads, rods and such in common with the '61 390 HiPo (375hp) Here are some Ford casting numbers: Heads C1AE 6090A; Intake Manifold C4(s?) 8425A. There are remnants of blue paint on the heads and block. I think, although the rust is really heavy, that the valve covers were painted gold. That carb (yes, it is frozen) I'm sure is a 4100 Ford Autolight.....and a double pumper at that. I've not pulled the plugs and attempted to rotate the crank, but I did pull the oil dip stick and.... damn! that oil looks clear, just like a new oil change. This thing was abandoned for about 15 years out in the Palo Verde Valley near Blythe CA. Not a cop car. Nothing to indicate light bar or radio. No power brakes or power steering.... back in those days men were real men with hairy arms and parallel parking took skill a good eye, and superior upper body strength. [sorry, I've still not mastered the insertion of photos]. G

I've got the glass, but it's in the series 1 hatch. I'm going to remove the horizontal glass and replace with vertical glass. I believe the defroster "vanes" work. Needs a continuity check. Nothing appears separated. $75.00 and you remove it (If it breaks, it is still yours). Are you looking for a perfect panel, uncut for after market radio, or do you need only the mechanism? I have several of each, but not one is perfect. I have the heater/ac that was dealer installed ... ARA I believe. Buy the glass and take the heater/ac home for free. I'm in the low desert outside of Palm Springs. g

Congratulations. Money is a practical consideration; but, living longer to spend time with your significant others, kids, grand kids, Zcars of the future, and life are the other long term benefits. I"ve been there with other family members, who successfully kicked the habit. Some tips: 1. You are changing your life style and, sometimes, your smoking friends . 2. Coffee and cigarettes and gambling (gaming for the PC) all go together. If breakfast is Coffee and a cigarette, then you must address this confluence. Get hooked on tea and a bagel with your morning newspaper. 3. Avoid all places where others are smoking. Yep, if your bother and sister in law always light up after the family Thanksgiving Dinner, then you might decide to celebrate Thanksgiving in some other place or manner. 4. Tell the world you are a non-smoker. Make your decision very public: it raises the price to you for "failure". Your real friends, whether smokers or not, will be rooting for you; the others will celebrate if you "fail" and pick up a coffin nail. You will not want to let your non-smoking friends down. 5. Look for "sugar teats" such as straws or cigarette substitutes as a crutch. 6. Associate with non-smokers; hang around friends that are members of the Latter Day Saints, Seventh Day Adventists, or Johova's Witnesses. If converting is a bit toooo much, then chose to associate with and cultivate non-smokers as friends. As I suggested, you are embarking on a new life style. Get physical: long walks, running, working out, playing soccer... anything that gets you moving. If you sit and think.... you'll start thinking about cigarettes. If you and your significant other like to kick back and have a cigarette together after engaging in sex: then change the pattern (keep the sex, celebrate in some other manner). Finally, I suspect that the most successful means of beating nicotine addiction/habit is to create another healthier addiction/habit to displace it. In closing, think for the long term. If you fall, stand up and continue. My wife, who smoked for 20 years stopped only after three attempts. Each one lasted longer than the other. She hasn't smoked now for 30 years. Again, congratulations.

I believe Datsun/Nissan thought you should. Every factory turbo'ed 280ZX I've seen had a small oil cooler mounted on the passenger's side, in front of the front wheel, but behind the bumper. g.

The thing about shopping my favorite JY is every now and again I find something I don't need; but, it is so "rare", "unusual", or "neat" that I have to have it. I usually delude myself by thinking that I can always sell it on EBay for twice what I paid. Yesterday, true to form, I put the plastic down on something I don't really need, but I think someone out there would like to take off my hands for some trade. Monday I take delivery on a 1964 Ford 390 police interceptor engine. This is out of a genuine "P" code car: a Ford Custom 500, with automatic transmission. Who knows if the engine is any good, but it has a double pump Ford Autolite carb [4100] that looks like a Holley... but isn't. Exhaust manifolds that are true works of art, a bundle of bananas cast in iron. Great looking and they must flow some decent numbers. A block that appears to have cross bolted mains [i can't really get in for a close look until Monday afternoon, but by feel there are either bolts there or some casting nubs. The alternator and water pump pulleys are double belted. There is a very large canister style fuel filter.... same one I recall on a certain '61 HP 390 375 hp thing I lusted after "back in the day". A lot of rust, but the engine block color is certainly Ford gold; the valve covers are steel and embossed with "ThunderBird" not "Interceptor". Can anyone here tell me more about this engine. I find a lot of information about the 427/428 FEs, but zilch relating to the 390's. I understand that it should be a mechanical lifter cam and, I've been told, that the heads should be the same casting as the 427, but with a smaller combustion chamber. Can anyone confirm which head casting this thing should have and if it is, in fact, shared with any of the 427s? I think this was rated at something around 330 hp. I would be quite surprised if the engine is not frozen, but I'm a sucker for old houses, stray dogs, and old muscle cars about to be sold for scrap or as a core. Someone has to save them. Any information would be appreciated. G

I don't know. Might have been. I really thought it was the color of the oil. The consistency is just oil mixed with water and air under pressure. g

I drained my compressor tank last night and got about 1 gallon of an oil/water mix....sort of like orange mayonaise. I'm down on oil on the compressor. What do these things use? Gear oil, synthetic, 30 weight, ATF or Power Steering Fluid. I don't have the user manual. Any help is welcome. G

FWIW, when the hydraulic clutch on my 5 speed Cherokee began to fail, I had the same symptoms. The slave cylinder was "ok"; the master cylinder was the culprit. I'd revisit the slave cylinder again and look for adequate throw and then go back on top to make sure the master cylinder does not leak down. I never had a problem starting while in gear and holding the clutch down; but if I came to a full stop with the trans in neutral and the clutch depressed, I couldn't get it into any gear. In my case the master cylinder would simply leak down and allow the clutch to drag (semi engage) and turn the transmission input shaft. g

First thing I checked. No, the airflow follows the arrows. g

Hoov, Most of my tools carry warnings limiting their use to something around 90 psi, but the air hammer really does the job at 145#. The easy and noisy way to massage clearance in the driveline tunnel. G

This is my set up: 1 55 Gal 240Volt Husky vertical Air Compressor. 1 inline ball valve 1 Husky air filter/water separator 1 Husky air regulator. Connector. The above is the order in which the parts are installed on the pressure line from the 55 Gal tank. Pressure at 55 gal tank is 145 psi. Pressure set at regulator is 95 psi. The problem is the is inadequate airflow out of the regulator to run any of my air tools for more than about 3 seconds. I thought I had a blocked air line so I connected a pneumatic drill directly to the regulator and hit the button. The drill powered up immediately and then slowed down almost to a stop. The psi gauge on the regulator holds at 95 psi before any tools are actuated. When a tool is actuated the gauge dead drops to o psi: the tool also comes to a rest. When I release the tool's air button, the regulator gauge jumps right up to 95 psi. I've replaced the regulator twice: this is the third unit and changing out the regulator with a new units has not solved the problem. I removed both the regulator and the air filter/water separator and connected an air drill directly to the 55 gal tank. Delivered 145 # to the drill with no drop off. Reconnected the drill on the other side of the air filter and, likewise, good pressure and power. I've checked to make sure that the installation of both the air filter/water separator and regulator were correctly installed in that the air flow runs from the 55 gal tank to the inlet side of the air filter/water separator then to the inlet side of the regulator. I don't think Home Depot's Husky brand would give me three defective pieces in a row. I'm sure I'm missing something, but what? Help. G:confused:

Sure it's a simple answer...I'm a Geezer and have major short term memory loss. You may note that I also double posted my answer.... . If I could figure out how to do it, I'd delete one of the new posts. Now where the hell are my keys? g

I bought a HF pot style sand blaster ten years ago. Loaded it with fine sand from local sand dunes (seriously, I live in the desert) and stripped my Z, uncovered little pinpoint rust throughs and converted them to little manholes the size of a dollar bill. Took two weekends and a LOT of sand. Static electricity shock was a major hardship. Running all that fine sand through rubber hose lines in this dry climate creates enough static to keep you jumping: compare with pulling out the coil wire of a running flat head Ford. You will have sand grains every where ... including your Wazoo. Really fine sand is not easy to locate. The usual stuff found at Home Depot does not work well. The grain size is too big and you can warp/pit the metal; A risk for all sandblasting using silica as the medium. The sand dune stuff I used is very, very fine... think flour like... not rice. If you pay retail for media and are not recovering it for reuse.... you will spend additional bucks. Cleaned sand from chassis with a combination of an extended wand on an air gun at one end and a shop vacuum on full suck at the other end. Created a perfect surface to apply POR 15, which took about 4 hours, with beer time, and several Home Depot throw away brushes of different widths. If you live in a subdivision with neighbors any closer than 400 yards and are planning to sandblast your Z out in the driveway or back yard, I suggest that you contact everyone and BUY THEM OFF before you begin work. Having said all that, I do use this blaster all the time for cleanup of small parts. It has been a useful cheap tool; but if I had had access to a shop that charged me only $250.00; I'd have jumped on it in a flash. G:D

I bought a HF pot style sand blaster ten years ago. Loaded it with fine sand from local sand dunes (seriously, I live in the desert) and stripped my Z, uncovered little pinpoint rust throughs and converted them to little manholes the size of a dollar bill. Took two weekends and a LOT of sand. Static electricity shock was a major hardship. Running all that fine sand through rubber hose lines in this dry climate creates enough static to keep you jumping: compare with pulling out the coil wire of a running flat head Ford. You will have sand grains every where ... including your Wazoo. Really fine sand is not easy to locate. The usual stuff found at Home Depot does not work well. The grain size is too big and you can warp/pit the metal; A risk for all sandblasting using silica as the medium. The sand dune stuff I used is very, very fine... think flour like... not rice. If you pay retail for media and are not recovering it for reuse.... you will spend additional bucks. Cleaned sand from chassis with a combination of an extended wand on an air gun at one end and a shop vacuum on full suck at the other end. Created a perfect surface to apply POR 15, which took about 4 hours, with beer time, and several Home Depot throw away brushes of different widths. If you live in a subdivision with neighbors any closer than 400 yards and are planning to sandblast your Z out in the driveway or back yard, I suggest that you contact everyone and BUY THEM OFF before you begin work. Having said all that, I do use this blaster all the time for cleanup of small parts. It has been a useful cheap tool; but if I had had access to a shop that charged me only $250.00; I'd have jumped on it in a flash. G:D

Are you sure it's not the "O" ring , which seals the sending unit to the gas tank, that's leaking? "O" rings are easy to find and replace; the sending unit can be a pricey item. G

I used JCI's mounting kit to install my 5.3 with AT into a early '71 Series I Z. Very narrow tunnel. Only problem was the re-install of the tension bar on the driver's side. No problem with the rear mount. Perfect clearance. Two questions: have you emailed John with your photos and asked him what the problem might be and have you removed and rotated the transmission insulator? JCI mounts do place the engine and transmission offset to the passenger side. Send an email to John: he is usually pretty quick with an answer. G:D

That is a dead ringer for my shifter out of a Mazda RX4 manual 4 speed transmission. I'd think RX 7 or such. g