zgeezer

I just had a long bench racing session with my computer addicted brother, who has "designed" and built three 10 second street cars... that are actually licensed and driven on the street. Two Falcons and one Austin Healy. Two of the cars were powered with 331 Ford Windsor strokers and one with a 427 351 stroker in a Falcon. Two vehicles with Ford's C4 auto and one (Austin Healy) with an late Ford overdrive. The thing is that both of the Falcons were fitted with a Ford 9 inch 3.24 (I think that is the right ratio, the stock one just below the standard 3.0) with a detroit locker; the AH is an open 3.54. The AH is light... lighter than most of our Z (2200#); the Falcons were both in the 2900# area. The Falcons used 14 inch wheels and soft radials. His position, pretty much backed up with time slips, is that the gear ratio is only a torque multiplier. If you are running a low torque engine that builds 7,500 rpm, then you will probably need shorter gears. He uses the '57 Chevy with a 270hp/283 ci engine as an example: it was not a torque engine and needed 4.56 or so to get moving and had the rpm potential to carry the 1/4 with those gears. If you have a high torque engine then you can use the longer gears. His basic assumption is that if you put down enough torque to smoke the tires through the first two gears, then you need to either get bigger and sticker tires or back out of all that torque. One way to do that is to go to longer gears. The side benefit is longer gears are much more usable on the street. He has run his computer programs [desktop dyno is one of them) to estimate hp on a stock LM7, LS1, and the high compression 6.0 liter truck engine [Advertised HP 345] in a Z that weighs in at 2550#, running 205x60x14 tires/wheels and an open rear end. Here's the kicker: he calculates that each of these three vehicles will turn faster 1/4 mile times with a 3.54 than a 4.11 or 3.9. The truck engine would be as quick with a 3.15 as a 3.36. This really runs counter to what I would like to believe. He cautions me that this is only for 1/4 mile drag times, where the variables are somewhat limited, and not to road racers, drifters, or other track cars. For me, the practical side is I will crank, sometime in February, my mostly stock LM7 [2001 LS6 cam & springs cold air intake, and shorty headers] and I am choosing my differential gear set now. The car will run the stock AT; with one of these three R-200s : 3.9, 3.54 or 3.36 [all CLSD]. What has been the experience of the LS1 swaps? How does one go about rationally choosing a rear end ratio? Z

I'll bet that video was shot around Palm Springs in the Coachella Valley. At one level, it is funny; but, guess what, every year first responders are picking up totally clueless hikers off that snow dusted mountain in back of him. They go up poorly dressed and equipted: little, if any water, shorts, and flip flops. The heat at the lower levels gets them, the cold at the higher levels gets them, and they get themselves by wandering off the trail. We lose one or two of them every five years or so. But, TECHNOLOGY can cure stupidity: they now will run out with their GPS cell phones. Get lost? Hell, a helicopter ride home is just a call away. Got a little chill up there in your burmudas? Hell, let's grab a helicopter ride or maybe we'll get a ride down on horseback. Recently, a couple called 911, scrambled the search teams and were flown down. The emergency? None, it appears the female in the party didn't like the taste of their water. Enough of my rant, maybe Hoov might wish to check in. g

I don't believe that this can be true. What do you think? Of course it's Chinese, but still...... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320453685797&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:MOTORS:1123

Thread hijack, sorry. Bjhines, who can recone VOT 15 inch bass speakers? g

Thanks for the quick replies and peace of mind. No need to confront my mechanic, rob the wife's house improvement kitty, or fear driving my DD. Just another item to check on my daily walk around before cranking up. Again thanks.

I replaced the pads on my 2004 MazdaSpeed Mx5 twelve months ago. The rotors were "turned" very slightly and Mazda OEM pads installed. Today, I noticed that each of my rotors have about 100 small cracks that run the width of the swept area at a 45 degree angle tangent to the inner swept diameter. The rotors are not "blued" and have not been abused, other than one or two "slow downs" from 110 to 80 mph. The cracks are visible, but the rotors feel smooth when I run my finger nails across them. There is no noise, no shuddering, and no sound of anything dragging. These are the original stock Mazda rotors and they are not drilled or slotted. Am I driving an unsafe car? Is this a condition that I should immediately replace all four rotors? My initial sense is that the car is "unsafe at any speed". What is the most likely cause for this condition? Any comments please. G

Probably rated at 260hp or so HP. Iron heads and a milder cam when compared to Camaros. A good engine and, in my opinion, the best dressed of the CSBs. It is also the technological end of the line for the CSB b/c GM then went to the LS* Gen III engines for everything. There are small but important differences between the years: most are small design changes to keep the distributer dry. It's located behind the water pump. If you buy it, get everything, every piece and every wire, that even looks like it heads in the direction of your CPU. These engines were all under-rated, both in HP and in performance. The iron heads on the sedans are reputed to outflow the aluminum heads on Camaros. There is a ton of information out there on this motor. Go for it. g

Does it make any difference if the a/c compressor is connected to the bottom or the top of the a/c condenser. I've mounted a 280Z condenser in my 240Z. Perfect fit. However, the 280Z had the compressor mounted on the driver's side and my new after market bracket puts it on the passenger side. The original compresser pushed [pulled?] into the top of the condenser. The flow from the evap enters the condenser from the bottom. Does it really make a difference if the compressor is plumbed to the bottom rather than the top of the condenser. Thanks, G

Thanks for the quick response. I guess there is no Santa Claus after all. Good news for the Fiero hybrid crowd, though. g

I've seen really cheap prices for LS4 engines w/o drive line. These are GEN III engines modified to fit East/West in front wheel drive GM products. Impala SS amoung others. I know GM made a number of changes, cutting down on the front crank snout for example. But, does anyone know if a standard GEN III automatic transmission will bolt easily to the rear of this engine. In short, can it be converted to North South orientation using stock parts? Did GM make any modifications to engine mount bosses on the block? g

Quite right, but if his only concern is getting power to both tires for straight line drag racing: a little attention to tire pressure may put off for a while the time in which he will have to go to LSD. g

If your only concern is getting power to both tires for straight line drag racing: a little attention to tire pressure may put off for a while the time in which you will have to go to LSD. g

Here are some ideas: 1. Locate and buy a usable used steering shaft and be certain that it fits your application or buy both the short splined end that bolts to the rag disc AND the matching longer rod that is splined and bolts to your rack. There are variations in the length of these two elements, but if you get them matched they are the same length for 240-260- and 280. S30s. 2. Buy an appropriate Borgeonson ujoint and build your own. 3. Try rebuilding the existing u-joint. The ujoint "cross and journals" from the 90's Subaru sedans [Think WRX body style] are very, very close to the same dimensions as the 240. The splines, however, do not match. Try pressing out the the "cross and journals" from the Subaru and pressing them into the Z's yokes. If all else fails, I have a decent complete shaft from an early Series 1 S30 for something somewhat less than your first born or left arm. If you wish to purchase, PM me and we'll try to work something out. Here is a picture showing the difference between steering shaft assemblies. g

Thanks. Now, I need to find a good flare tool. g

My next step is to run fuel pressure lines and return from my 240zx intank pump through the transmission tunnel of my 71 240z to my GEN III truck engine manifold. The original fuel lines have long since disappeared and I have limited fabrication skills, but great R&R experience. There is a thread here that extolls the virtues of "CONIFER" brake and hydraulic metal lines. Has anyone here actually used this stuff? The website claims this stuff can be easily bent by hand without kinking. I think it is a copper/nickel alloy. In the alternative, does anyone know of a source for pre-bent steel fuel lines a bit larger than stock with a return line. I seem to remember that there was some talk from a Z restoration group in "Mesa" AZ about producing such a line. I also need the rubber blocks that support the stock fuel line, return, and brake lines. Any help greatly appreciated. G

I attended a small, but very pricey car show at Palm Springs a couple of years ago. On display and, guarded by off duty Marines from 29 Palms was an early Ferrari billed as the first Ferrari sold in the US. Worth "millions". This car is a black sheep of the Ferrari clan because its paternity is not all that clear. Appears Enzo was hard up for cash and sold this vehicle to an american for "lots a bux", but shipped a well used race car with a paint job to the buyer as a new car. Or so the story goes. Here's the view from behind the steering wheel. Ferrari's are nice, but I'm really partial to "D" Jags with a racing backgound. I think this may have been raced by Lister. If not, still a very nice companion for anyone's hybridz. Everyone knows that with megabux Ford designed the GT40 to take on and whip Ferrari. They did, but Ford was not the first. Plain old California hot rodders [Ak Miller, I believe], build a roadster and whupped Eyte tail all over Mexico around 1952 in this car. I don't recall the engine, but, for sure, it was old fashioned pushrod, rocker armed, American iron [i would like to say Oldsmobile Rocket 88-green in color]. No, this grunter didn't scream: it just got the job done at about 1% of the cost of the Ferrari. The grill reminds me of my neighbors' hybrid pit bu.... pardon me, American Staffordshire "Terrerors": sort of ugly, but it grows on you. Now, the best is saved for last. I think this may be a clone of the real thing, but it was done beautifully and this one I'd take. If you look over the roof of the Z to the last car in the line, you will see the roof of a 1952 Mexican Road Race Lincoln.... also a winner. g

Here's a small correction. I reviewed my photos and it appears that I needed to lift the engine to allow removal of two bolts at the front of the pan to the timing chain cover. The pan was not dropped, but the engine was raised enough to allow access to the bolts and to pull them free of the timing chain cover. There was enough clearance through the front bulkhead to use the hardwood dowels to hold the plastic cam follower retainers. Sorry for the incomplete information. g

Are they done yet? I'll take one if you accept PayPal. G

Yes, I have a 5.3 with Johns Cars Ls1 kit. I even used the same cam shaft and springs. I don't remember dropping the pan at all. I don't think it is necessary. I used an F body pan, so maybe things are different with the 'Vette batwings. However, it was two years ago and age does have its way. Here is the best "how to" I've read. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23 While this is in a Camaro, the process should be the same. I had no problem. I had nothing in front of the engine. Unbolted the mounts and lifted the engine slightly with a cherry picker and a plate bolted to the heads. Removed the intake manifold and used a commercially available lift plate. The cam switch procedure is different and much easier that your early CSB. I used two long hardwood dowels to hold the cam followers in place and pulled the cam. There are several detailed write ups on how to do this swap on both LS1.com and LSTECH.com. It is possible to remove the camshaft without jamming the plastic cam follower holders, but if they don't stay up you will be fishing them out of your pan. The forum at LS1.com is replete with comments about how to remove valve springs. Generally, they don't like the usual levered valve removal tools. The valves on the two cylinders next to the firewall are hard to get to. I purchased a homemade tool that slides over the rocker am stud and is screwed down compressing the spring. I also used air pressure to hold the valves up and out of the block. If there is any interest, I will post photos of the spring removal tool. Two hours and that included a burger and coke run. G

Everything you want to know is right here : http://www.kwikperf.com/ I purchased both their alternator mount and a/c mount for my truck engine. The parts look very good. The price is right. g

IMHO all Ford SHO's were one of Ford's better ideas. How well do they run? Well, the engine in the new SHO is also in Lincoln's new hot rod so if that Lincoln can outperform BMW, Mercedes, and Maserati's there might be hope in the Ford lineup for us. Check out this piece: 6versus8.com I'm sure there will be comments. g