zgeezer

I'm about to find out. Copper (CU) Nickle (NI) Iron (FE) [CUNIFER] line is now DOT approved for brake lines. I know of two sources:fedhill usa referred to above and brakequip, which sells nationwide through distributors. There is a difference in prices. Fedhill sells 25' rolls of 3/8 OD for $115.00 plus shipping. BrakeQuip sells the same alloy for $2.99 /foot. A BrakeQuip hose shop are common in this part of California. I will use 3/8 [-6] for both fuel and return line. I can bend 3/8 OD tubing by hand to a radius of 5 inches with little problem. However, the tighter bends will need a tubing bender. The immediate issue for me is whether or not a -6 male fitting can be brazed or silver soldered in place. A good article on the use of cunifer is here. G

As about 99% of all early clocks don't function, I'll bet the clock out that white 280Z will also be gone by tomorrow. Did you get the tail lights off that one? g

Actually, I found the answer: as usual for me, simple and in front of my nose. #5 spark plug is a very tight fit. The usual spark plug deep well socket will not work. Found a cheap.... $3.50 T handle universal jointed "bottle necked" deep well socket. The narrow diameter of the bottle necked socket allows it to work. I'll use a complete set of LS2 wires with a 90 degree boot with a kevlar sock to protect the wires. If you are using JTR headers with JC's LS1 installation kits... you can't use John's oil pressure relocation kit. The JTR heads hit the oil pressure sensor. I don't know if GM's oil pressure sending unit is compatible with the 240Z gauge. I assume it is not and will simply replace the GM sender with the Datsun sender... this will require a fitting to adapt the GM block to Datsun male thread. g

Inlaw, I just looked closely at my tach. Correct tach, but needle has become unattached. I won't sell it. My favorite JY does have a 'late 71 , series II, :)with complete set of instruments. They want $250.00 for all instruments and loom. Includes clock, but we all know that the clock won't be keeping time. This tach is yellow lined at 6,500 and redlined at 7,000. If you are interested I'll give you their tel # and you can cut your deal with them. I'll be out there tomorrow (saturday) pulling door hinges off that car. If you are interested, I can probably pull them for you and see if the price would be less. G

I've been unable to locate my photo album (ZGEEZER) in the Gallery. I click on "members albums" and see 27 or so pages of photos that seem not to be in any particular alpha/numerical order. The search button in both Gallery and Members does not pick up on me. My browser is FireFox. I am listed as a Member, but I must go specifically to the "Z" tab and scroll down through all other members to my name. Have I lost all my photos? God, I hope not. g

Oh, how I love this site. Back in the day, I purchased a Mazda R=100 with a very small rotary that had, hold your breath for it, blew its seals. Next purchase same day at the JY next door was a13B with 5 speed out of as sedan... Rx-4, I believe. Racing Beat Holly, front caster blocks, custom header (simple two tubes out 24 inches to a collector) MSD box , Allison LED ignition and exhaust plugs. Nothing more. I beat the living crap out of that car: drove from the "House of the Rising Sun" at Ash Creek, though Beatty, and over to Tonopah (Nevada) in third gear all the way at 8000 rpm before I realized that I had two other gears..... . No torque; just RPM in numbers I'd never seen before. Smooth. Almost no vibration. Loud as hell without mufflers and a nice rasp through a muffler. I drove that car for 2.5 years and a little over 50,000 miles before it gave up. Not seals. Just a "click" one morning and it froze, piece of aluminum in the pan. Now for the banker's rap. If you have access to a good clean Rx3 for the "right" price, buy it, play with the 13B Turbo II, and when you are through, put all the original running gear back in, polish the stock body, and sell it for a bunch of money to finance your next Toy. Do a google search for Mazda Rx3 for sale and spot how many clean stockers with nice paint (survivors) are selling for 4-11 thousand . Think hard about that figure and then go to Hybridz's for sale forum and see what thrills 6 or 7 thou will buy you here. Other than Porsche, there are few marks around that one can buy, drive, keep clean, beat, and then sell at anywhere near purchase price. Your Rx3 may be one of those. By the way, remember where 5th gear is and keep the rpm down to 7,000 or so and have a great time. Yes, my DD is a Mazda...Speed that is as Mx5 Mazda Speed. I wish it were my old R100. g

When I search for my name in either "members" or "album", my name does not show up. Zgeezer does not exist in Member's Albums or in Members. I have no problem logging in or searching in Forums. I have posted all my Z photos in my "member's album" in Gallery. I can't find those photos, my albums, or even my own name. Help. G:unsure:

Are you looking for 71 stock? If so, I have the tach and ammeter... not voltmeter. Voltmeters are 280 stuff. The are slight differences in the instrument panel gauge fonts between the series. g:)

Opppps, time to get the 2.5 diopters on. A Gen I CSB it is. G

If 1.75 inch shorty headers with a 3 inch collector is your game, just go over to JTR and buy them here. Made under contract by Sanderson. They probably have some agreement with JTR that limits what they can sell under their own name. It may very well be that the 1.75 " shorty headers that Sanderson makes are sold only through JTR. g

Ohhhh, I can relate to that. I lived in Vacaville, CA and flew my little VFR puddle jumper out of the Nut Tree airport and a dirt strip in Dixon. Right under or alongside the flight path of Travis AFB during the 60's and 70's.... lots of 141 Starlifters and once in a while a C5 Galaxie. I didn't want to share any air space with those. You could have a three mile separation and it still looked as if they were right next door. Read everything I could about clear air turbulence and terrible things that happened to civilian pilots flying behind and below those critters. By the way, a question. My AirKnocker had a service ceiling of 13,000 feet and top air speed of "maybe" 100mph. A few years ago, I was one of about 12 passengers aboard a Lufthansa DC8 as it landed in La Paz, Bolivia.... Airport was at or close to 13,000 feet. Anyone have an educated guess as to ground speed at flare with no headwind? My guess, after watching the markers move by, would be in the neighborhood of 200mph. G

I have a set of JTR shorties fabricated by Sanderson's headers. I mocked them up on my LM7 last night and I swear that I'll never get the spark plug in cylinder #5 in or out. The tubes are 1.75 inches in diameter. I can't fit my spark plug socket in between the tubes and my craftsman open ended wrench can't get a grip on the plug. And the metal heat shields don't fit either... so another question. As close as the tubes are to the spark plug what do you use for a heat proof wire termination. (Spark plug boot). If you are running JTR shorties on a GEN III engine, please.... what do you use to change the #5 spark plug? Please a simple answer, such as tool #123B side bar weasel wench wrench by Kracow for $29.95 at Pep Boys. I've not checked the passenger car side, so I may have another use for your answers. Thanks Sorry about the lack of photos, I'm still trying to find out how to do that...... new program... different problems. G

Yeah, probably true. In my next life, I'll come back as the owner of the world's largest wrecking lot. hoov, where are you located? I'd like to stop by and take a gander at that Z you have in front of the garage. Send me a PM. G

If you are talking about 1.75 OD, then Sanderson's block huggers for JTR fits the bill. At least that's what they shipped me about 3-4 years ago.

Meph, I have a 3:54 R200 that has a sound ring and pinion and carrier. I don't know what year it is or if it came out of 280zx. I opened this about 10 years ago to check the ratio, cleaned it with kerosene and sprayed the interior with WD40. Big mistake. WD40 seems to attract water and, when I reopened there was a lot of soft fuzzy marshmallow like rust. The bearings are Kaput, but the other parts are good. Would require disassembly and derusting (I use electrolysis). If you can't find what you are looking for, give me a pm or email. $100 for all internals and you pay shipping. Payment by PayPal. g

My previous comments notwithstanding, what I see in these photos are two well dressed men, one of whom is showing off his prize possessions: his baron, his glock, his clothes and, of course, "his" cell phone. They look healthy and I'll bet are working: not stealing to support a habit. The shirts are pressed and I can tell you that belt is not cheap. No "tats" visible. I don't see druggies or addicts there: I see a working class family. I have several photos of me and my .30 M1, my SKS assault rifle look alike, my .40 Long Colt and such. While I don't see Glocks as a fashion statement, I'll bet we have more than a few on this forum. I'll give you even money.... no better yet... I'll put up my R200 3.54 (rusty, frozen, and generally unsaleable) that this guy bought your cell at a swap meet. I've bought my share of tools and such off swap meets. Were they stolen? Who knows. The price was right. G

How much is your blackberry worth? Check to see where the break point is between felonies and misdemeanors is in Texas. Gather all your information, do the locate my telephone thing. Put together a three ring binder with proof that the blackberry is yours, that it was stolen [you did file a stolen property report...right?] and walk into the appropriate sheriff/police/constabulary, lay out your evidence and file a complaint. Cops have a sense of humor and like district attorneys they really like shooting fish in a barrel. Great story and it could make headlines as the world's dumbest criminal. Hell, if it's a small community or if you have really pinned that place down... they may even know him. Number of ways to do this. In many Western states you could take a cop with you and make a citizen's arrest. Actually, if you walked into a police station with all that information, some aggressive prosecutor might pick it up as probable cause for a search warrant..... then, things could get interesting. Or, you could give up on the blackberry and continue to collect photos. Who knows what photographs people take with cell phones: we all know, and sooner or later there could be a real eye opener. Of course, his defense will be that he found it on the street where you dropped it... or something similar. Personally, I like the voluntary invasion of privacy....whoops, did I really say that. Keep us informed, these group things are fun. G

Hey, Hoov, I found the Ref station in Indio to be very helpful. Of course that was ten years and three engines ago, but they provided me with a very specific list of what I needed. I think that it would be to your benefit to bring these guys in at the very beginning. Like they know your car before you pull in... establish some rapport... offer them a ride in that Chevy at the next Palm Springs Corvette club autocross. G

Good post. I'm dealing with this right now. Now how about that bushed "wheel" that rotates into a curved arm to hold the door open at full and 1/2 open. The "wheel" on mine is worn flat on one side. Any replacement parts that you are aware of? G

If you are using a hydraulic clutch, the problem could be in master cylinder leak down. Pump the clutch: if the transmission then moves easily into gear, the problem is that the clutch is not disengaging completely. This is a common problem for high mileage Cherokees. g

I went out to my local sand dune, screened, and used about 75 gallons of very fine, very abrasive, silicon... ie fine blow sand as my media. Two days later, I had a very light coating of rust. Three days later, a very uniform coating of light surface rust had formed. I knocked that off with POR 15 metal prep in about three hours and then painted it using POR 15 silver, using a 2.5 inch brush and a small 1 inch brush. Took me about two hours, a six pack of Pepsi, and two tacos to finish. Threw the brushes away and let it cure. That was ten years ago (more or less). The Z carcass was stored outside in this low desert sun for nine years before I brought it in. No rust.... anywhere. Very smooth "glass like" finish, but POR 15 is photo sensitive: the silver turned to a crappy yellow/green dry heaves, vomit kind of color. To paint over POR 15 you pretty much have to use their "Tie-Coat" product that is a primer and accepts the usual paint. I'm sure there are many other products out there that you can use, but remember lots of primers pass water and rust can develop under the primer. G

I have a four or five pound short handled single jack that I used whenever I saw a need to "get ignorant" and pound on my sheet metal. However, if you have air, and a long stroke air hammer/chisel, a "planishing" bit works very well. The "planishing" bit was purchased from harbour freight for about $10.00. It has a concave circular head about the size of an old fifty cent coin. It really moves the metal and, best of all, when you are finished it the metal doesn't have that "battered" look to it. g

Ajax in Coachella. When you go in the front door turn a sharp right and look in their outdoor secured areas... accessible only from inside the office. God only knows what they will ask: they wanted $175.00 for a 2001 Chevy truck fuel line... the first 4 feet. g

Yep, the lever is all the way back clockwise and will move forward (counter clockwise ) Thanks for the response. g

It appears close. I've mounted it up on my engine (on the ground in front of my chassis) and will remount the engine in another week or so. I'll know for sure then. g