zgeezer

I looked at your websites and all I see is the Daytona with the JCI kit and Sanderson headers. By the way, thanks for the tip about the mounting boss, I've trial fitted the Sandersons and didn't pick up on the block interference. I presume the C5 headers are also for the "D" exhaust port. If you have a path to good photos of the header, I'll include them in the post. g

I've posted in my album photos of the truck lm7 exhaust manifold, z06 exhaust manifolds, ls7 stainless steel hydroformed manifolds, Ls2 and late 6.0L truck exhaust manifolds, and the F body manifolds. They are all different and look, to me, to offer some chance of fitting without major modification. However, the z06/ls6 and ls7 manifolds d/n fit the vanilla grade ls1 head because the heads have '0" shaped ports and these manifolds are "D" shaped ports. To fit you would need the #243 head casting or equivalent (z06 head). The two most interesting of these are the Ls6 cast iron manifold and the ls7 stainless steel manifold. Here's the business end of the new Ls7 manifold... yep, a set of these went for $35 + shipping on Ebay w/i the last week. Here are the cast iron zo6 manifolds. Note the longer runners and "D" shaped ports. These have gone for a little as $75.00 for a pair + shipping on Ebay. Here are a set of LS2 manifolds, I think these are off a new 6.0 L truck engine. For comparison, here are the Fbody manifolds that will work with some grinding and modification of the oxygen bung (or at least that what the search button leads me to believe) Here are the Ls6 heads with the 243 casting number. These casting are used for the HO 5.3 all aluminum 330hp truck engine as well as the HO 5.3 Ls4 front wheel driver. Note the "D" shaped exhaust ports. g Vihn's response shows the early 1998 C5 Stainless Steel exhaust manifolds. Here is a photo of a 2001 C5 [NOT LS6] LS1 cast iron manifold. Note the round, not "D" shaped ports and the cast in connection between the the center ports. I have no idea what purpose that serves.

I have the Sanderson shorty headers, but I can't use Johns motor mounts. The corvette mounts I have interfere with the Sanderson headers. In the last month I've seen two sets of C5 z06 exhaust manifolds that appear to be different than the standard Ls1 and C5 manifolds. I understand from my search function that F body manifolds fit, provided you cut/grind the flanges and/or relocate the O2 sensor bung. I don't like the "look" of the F body manifolds. The search function also located one comment that the C5 corvette exhaust manifolds do not fit. No comment as to where the interference might be. Does any one have any information as to whether the Z06 exhaust manifolds, which to my eye look very good and seem to have runners that are closer to being equal length that the Sanderson shorties would fit? There have been several sold on EBay for $150 + Shipping. I saw a set of Ls7 stainless steel exhaust manifolds go on Ebay for $35.00 + shipping. (Yes, I punched the "submit" button too late) from Ligenfelter's Ebay store. Now those are center dump with all runners in a straight flat line. Given the price differential between stock exhaust manifolds and Sanderson's piece, I think there would be a number of other ls1 swappers that could use more information on GM's stock manifolds. I'll try to post some photos. g

It's a good find. For what its worth, I'd trade a totally rebuilt, new bearings and such long nose R200 3:36 with 87 Turbo LSD and $200 boot for it. I think those are the longest gears made for the R200. There are a number of them around, but not for sale. g

Looks like a Z with a lot of body work. Any particular kit? g

Does anyone know if the Ls7 exhaust manifold will bolt to an ls1 or lm7 truck head. They are center dump, flat, stainless steel, a fit very close to the engine. Look here: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0608htp_comp_cams_camshaft_installation/photo_19.html Thanks. g

Yep, those are pretty much the facts. I can tell you with some certainty that after that lawsuit, McDonalds' coffee is not served at 210 degrees any more. Now, here's my flow chart to determine if he should sue. First, go ahead and consider suing, it is, of course, the American thing to do. Second. Did his wife suffer a serious (permanent) or exceptionally painful injury. If she has numbness in that arm after three days, she might have. Third. Immediately, seek medical care and a diagnosis. If she has an injury that a competent physician believes was caused by the shock, then move to the next step, which would be: Fourth. Determine what actually caused the incident and did his wife do anything to add to her injuries. Maybe the box wiring was faulty in someway, but did his wife just step out of the shower/bath wet and barefoot standing on a damp carpet when she attempted to plug in the cord. If so, then deduct some comparative amount for her negligence..... something between 10% and 90%. Fifth. Get on the internet and look for jury awards in your county, where this matter is likely to be tried. He will probably see that something like 60% of the cases that go to trial are defensed. Insurance defense counsel know what they are doing and what they are doing is not giving out money for free. Sixth. Take the cord to an expert (you won't believe how many experts in some really arcane fields there are out there) to determine if it was defective in design. Seventh. If the cord was defective, then you are into an entirely different law suit. But don't despair, a few have prevailed on a theory of faulty design. Think Pinto. Ford Pinto gas tanks would often catch fire when rear ended. The gas tank filler design was such that it would usually separate from the tank upon impact. Ford's problem is that it knew of this propensity and actually worked up actuarial reports on the cost/benefit of redesigning this $3.00 piece. Their actuaries actually calculated how many people would likely be incinerated and what Ford would lose in the insuring law suits as against the cost of redesign. They opted to keep the old design. They should have also burned the actuary reports too. So much for the rant. The wife's health should be the first concern. If she has permanent problem, then see a good PI attorney AFTER the wife's seen a good physician. g

I'm swapping a 5.3 into my 240. The first 8 inches or so of the exhaust down pipe is filled with a screen. This is just before the O2 sensor. Any one know what the purpose of this screen might be? Is it designed to straighten the air flow, similar to the screen in many MAF's? Take a look. If I retain this screen, is resonance likely to be reduced? It sure can't do much for power, but I figure that GM has something in mind when they designed it. g

On my 240Z the inside belt is secured by a captive nut low on the transmission tunnel. On earlier zs they are mounted well to the back of the tunnel... again a captive nut and the tunnel is reinforced on the underside with additional sheet metal. g zZ

Miles, What connection did you use between the Datsun Shifter and the A/T? I've moved the long lever under the car to the driver's side of the tunnel and am now considering connecting it to the stock a/t cable or fabricating a lever to engage the a/t. What did you do? Any other photos of under the car? g

The LS1 Camaro/Corvette intakes will bolt on and are much lower. Use the truck injectors and google "ls1 truck manifold swap" and you'll find that the ls1 intake is so low that it interferes with the accessory belt drive. The bucks up way to resolve the problem is to purchase all the Ls1 accessory drive components, including the Ls1 crank/pulley/balancer. The shade tree method is to modify the idler pulley to drop the belt down lower and to move a water hose pipe on the waterpump to clear the belt. Search these forums, I think its been discussed before. g

I have seen a late 260Z dash swapped into a series II 240Z. My recollection is that the dash is a tad wider than the 240 and that the mounting tabs were spaced differently. I do remember the kid that did the swap said that he had to "get ignorant" to get it in and that it was secured by one or two screws into the firewall mounting tabs. I suggest the next time you're in jy, pull of that finishing panel between the windshield and pad of the 280 dash and count and measure the mounting tabs. g