zgeezer

Miles that is great! How about posting photos of all aspects of the swap. I'd really like to see your hood treatment. I understand that the exhaust manifolds are from the camaro, I'd like to see how what you cut to make them work. And, while I'm at it.... please post the front engine mounts. Are you in Wickenburg? If you are, how about driving down 10 to Indio on November 1, 2008 and showing your Z along side mine (probably on a trailer) and a real bunch of fast late model street machines. Take a look at this website: festivalofwheels.net for more details. G Hey,

I don't know the name of the builder of this replica, but he did say the gauge was put there because that is where it was placed in the original race car he is duplicating. Only checked by a crew member, whenever it was in the pits. Sounded reasonable to me. g

Today was a good day in Palm Springs. I hit two car shows and three jyds. Can't get any better. If anyone is interested in a LD28 diesel engine, I've located a complete '82 with A/T in a Maxima station wagon in one of my favorite JYs. Price is $180.00 + $45.00 core and California sales tax. You take out the engine. This afternoon it was not cannibalized, but tomorrow, who knows? No liquids seeping out anywhere and no apparent trauma... ie no visible holes in the block. JY manager w/n allow me to take photos. Don't know why. This is located in the Coachella Valley... think Palm Springs, Indio, Highway 10. The first annual Palm Springs Classic Concours de Elegance was about what one might expect: about 100 with an average sale price of $2.5 million. The prime come see me car was a 1947 Ferrarri race car touted to be the first Ferrari and packing a price tag of $24 million. Not much to look at, but they had the USMC as the obvious body guard. You can check my album for the steering wheel, which is probably worth $900,000. However, off in the corner were three bone fide race cars and a replica BRE Z that was quite impressive. One of the PanAmericana race Lincolns was present and impressive. To average 90+mph over Mexican roads in 1952 for almost 2,000 mile must have been one scary ride. The Oldsmobile powered "Iron Horse" driven, I think by Ak Miller was there. A hot rod that cleaned up some very expensive sports cars. The BRE replica was a '70Z, as would be expected. I liked the fiberglas dash treatment, the location of the diferential oil temp gauge, and the set up for a fuel cell located in the tire well. I know its been done before, but it still looks nice. Here are some BRE photos: Thanks for looking folks. I can't resist, here's what that super expensive steering wheel looks like. If you like more information on the CONTROVERSY about the heritage [blood line] of this Ferrari... is it REALLY a Ferrari, google "Ferrari first pebble beach" and you should have some hits. It appears there is another Ferrari owner claiming the right to primogeniture. The Palm Springs Ferrari might be a BASTARD put together by who knows who out of salvage uncertified parts out of Ferrari's racing bin. Yep, that word was actually used. I guess it does make a big difference if you have a few million riding on the investment potential of having the "first Ferrari". Still the BRE replica crowd was much more interesting. After all "parts is parts". g

Well, maybe a cheap way to turbocharge my toy, but I need some information and direction. I've located no fewer than five and maybe six 300ZXTd from 1986-1989 [sorry, all the LSD's are gone] in local jys. All have their turbos intact and they can be had for "pick a part" prices. None appear to be intercooled. The only readily apparent differences between the turbos is that I think two of them are H20 cooled. The cast iron exhaust manifolds of the 5.3 can be swapped from side to side and configured to mount two small turbos [one to a bank]. As Nissan sized these turbos to 3.0 liters, I would think that two of them would make a streetable match for my 5.3 liter motor. I have seen the threads regarding another member doing a turbo'ed 5.3, using one larger front mounted turbo, intercooled, and with a down pipe locating the larger turbo in front of the engine. This is not what I am proposing to do. Money [lack of it] and the availability of these turbos at a cheap price is what drives this thought. I would hope that I could carry 5-6# of boost without an I/C with these smaller turbos. Are all 300zxt turbos created equal? If not, how do I identify the ones to avoid? Do any of you have quick and dirty field tests to determine if a turbo might be useable, rebuildable, a decent core, or simply trash? I know the first one might be "Does it turn easily?" What are some others. My goal is a daily driver with good street manners.... some muscle, yes, but good street manners. Finally, I installed a z06 cam, appropriate sized pushrods, and z06 valve springs. All but the aftermarket pushrods out of a 2004 z06 Vette. The LSA on this cam is very wide: 117 degrees. I've read that this mild cam will work with the turbos [Ligenfelter's 1,000hp TT cam is ground on an LSA of 120 degrees?] At any rate, I do need some good field guides to choosing used Turbos. Thanks g

Other end of state. Think 100 miles W of AZ and 100 miles N of Mexico on Interstate 10. low desert outside Palm Springs. Ca. g

My local j/y has an 81 ZXT that is pretty complete. MAF is bad, engine reputed to run and is complete. A/T and tripod style CVs. Also late 1971 Z with round SU carbs. At least the SUs were on it this morning. Both these are located Indio, Riverside county, California. If you're interested, I take photos Tuesday and post them. PM me if you want the address. g

The rear end is R200 with clutch lsd and CV joints using MM's cv adaptors and 280 stub axles. Any insight as to reliability of the Powerdyne unit? g

I need some advice and straight talk. My swap is a 5.3 into a '71 Z. The design parameters are to: 1. Look stock on the outside, 2. to be a quiet comfortable daily driver and long distance cruiser, 3. performance 105 mph & low 13 in the 1/4. The 5.3 is stock with the following: 1. Sanderson's block hugger headers for the LS1 swap; 2. A 2002 Z06 cam, 7.424 aftermarket pushrods, and yellow z06 springs. I have the stock GM 4speed OD electronic automatic transmission and 3.36 ring and pinion. I am shopping superchargers. I've just about decided, from different magazine articles rating different superchargers, that I will use a belt driven centrifugal, rather than a Magnusen (sp?) or such. Much of that decision is based upon $$$. I have seen powerdynes on Mustangs and they are quiet and appear to be easy to install. I recognize that the Powerdyne is limited to low boost (4-6-9#), but are they reliable in this application. I don't "need" 15# boost, but I do neet quiet and reliable. What is the score on Powerdyne? I have a line on the 9# version, belt drive, off a late Silverado (should fit my lm7) for $1500.00. Help me decide how to spend my xmas bonus. g Thanks

Try searching on LS1.com and LS1tech.com. Although these two forums specialize in GEN III Chevrolets, there is at least one regrinder in Texas that regrinds LS1 cams for less than $100.00 a copy. Might help. g

San Diego. The video shows an officer explaining what happened. g

My '71 had an automatic and has the same square tab on the throttle rod and a very similar mount on the inside firewall. No switch. I'm sure it is a kick down switch. g g

If you are swapping an F body oil pan onto your truck GENIII block then be aware that you must modify the truck's windage tray to allow the oil pickup tube to sit squarely into the oil pump. Failure to do this will eventually allow the oil pump to suck air... not a good thing. When you pull the truck oil pan and oil pickup tube, note that the truck pickup tube runs down the passenger side of the engine and then crosses over to the engine centerline before it drops down into the sump. It is supported by two of the windage tray studs: one on the passenger side and one on the driver's side. The side of the truck windage tray is "windowed" next to each of the pickup tube mounting studs. This allows the pickup tube mounting supports to be bolted FLAT to the windage tray. The F body oil pickup tube, by comparison, is supported only at the oil pump and by one windage tray stud on the driver's side. It is not the same stud that mounts the truck's second support. Be sure to "window" the windage tray along side the "new" stud that will hold the F body oil pick up tube. If this is not carefully done, the oil pickup tube will be "cocked" in the pump and the oil ring will not seal the pickup tube. Sorry for the lack of pictures, but once you have the truck pan off, you will see the issue immediately. I used a torch to cut out a "window" the size of a four bit piece. I found these specifications for LS1 camshafts that might be of help to someone trying to sort out some of Chevy's stock cams. 1998 - 2000 Fbody 202/210 int/exh @ 0.05" duration 0.496" / 0.496" int/exh lift 116 LSA 2001 - 2002 Fbody 197/207 int/exh @ 0.05" duration 0.467" / 0.479" int/exh lift 116 LSA 2001 LS6 cam 207/217 int/exh @ 0.05" duration 0.525" / 0.525" int/exh lift 116 LSA 2002+ LS6 cam 204/218 int/exh @ 0.05" duration 0.551" / 0.547" int/exh lift 117 LSA GMPP Hot Cam 218/227 int/exh @ 0.05" duration 0.525" / 0.525" int/exh lift 112 LSA GMPP ASA Cam 226/236 int/exh @ 0.05" duration 0.525" / 0.525" int/exh lift 110 LSA 6.0 LQ9 207/196 int/exh @ 0.05" duration 0.479" / 0.467" int/exh lift 116 LSA 5.3 LM7 190/191 int/exh @ 0.05" duration 0.466" / 0.457" int/exh lift 114 LSA What I found surprising is that the truck cams are ground on 116 or 114 lsa, but the two z06 cams are on 116 or 117 LSA. I would have thought it would have been the other away around. I have purchased a pull out camshaft for a GEN III engine that has the following numbers engraved on the back side: 5308 S-09 1236. I believe these are Chevrolet numbers and identify one or the other LS6 cams. Can anyone confirm what cam I really hav?. It was sold to me as a 2001 LS6. Yep, I paid $20 for a pig in a poke and now I'd like to know if I got the pig or the poke. Thanks folks. Pictures of another 5.3 on the road coming to you sometime before the end of the decade. g

I've posted this in the Ford section. I'm posting this here because I think all Gen III owners should be aware that somewhere.... out there.... in a cold garage in the Midwest... next to that tractor with five hemi engines is some guy bolting up a set of Holman-Moody NASCAR Cleveland heads to an LS1. Be aware... they are OUT THERE and they're hungry. http://460ford.com/viewtopic.php?p=138256 Actually, for me, this would be a refreshing change of pace from the usual csb/Ford chassis/glass body pricey cookie cutter street rods I see at my local cruise. g

Here's a guy that posted pictures of this head swap. This is real hot rodding and thinking "outside the box". http://460ford.com/viewtopic.php?p=138256 g

I have one out of a series I , 1971 Z that is usable. I think it will fit. Shipping from CA might be expensive. g

Miles, that looks great. Do you have any photos of your motor mounts and exhaust manifolds. Did you keep the 5.3 cast iron or use aftermarket? g

Don't buy the LS1 engine loom unless you confirm with the manufacturer that it will fit the LQ4. The truck engines often use different injectors that use a different connector than the LS1. My LM7 truck engine uses smaller connectors for the injector units. My loom is from Street and Performance out of Mena AK as is specifically tagged as truck engine only. g

Dry ice will work if it's tar based. Wrap a brick of dry ice in a dry towel, let it sit on the tar for 2 minutes and then hit it with a small hammer or, better yet, a chisel. It'll break off in chunks. Very clean. No need for solvents, heat, or cleanup. Try the same thing with ice from your freezer. That might also work. g

I sandblasted my z down to bare metal and applied POR 15 Silver [high solids] to every inch, including cutting out the rust in the ends of the sills and spraying/swabbing the insides. I left it out in the low desert sun for the next three years as I did some body work and then applied POR "Tie Coat", PPG epoxy primer and then PPG color. UV creates a color shift, from silver into a "dry heaves" yellow/green. As far as I can tell UV d/n affect the integrity of the finish... it did not "chalk up". I do have some small delamination issues that now appear to be the result of inadequate preparation before putting down the epoxy primer. Live and learn. The kids playing baseball in the shop yard nailed my driver's side rear 1/4 panel with a line drive that punched a fair sized dent. The ppg delaminated where the dent crimped. The POR did not. It is flexible. I don't have chips and the product d/n scratch easily. I recommend it. But, read the instructions well. I don't know what it is, but it sure is not a paint and will not thin with the usual solvents. g

Don't mess with compression. Camshaft and springs. GMPP or aftermarket. Even an LS1 camshaft with springs will be an improvement. My cam guru, using Desktop Dyno, predicts that a 1998 LS1 cam is worth 30+ HP over the stock cam in a 2002 5.3 LM7.