zgeezer

I really like that look. I notice that this car had two hood vents on either side of the hood's center line with, what appears to be a small deflector strip on the leading edge. If this works, then one might think that the '73 "competition hood scoop" sold by Datsun to cure overheating might have some real aero advantage. The installation instructions required cutting a hole about 18" long and eight inches wide in the hood and then covering it with this fiberglas cover. Note that the air exits out the sides of the "scoop". G

Seems to me that "Mythbusters" tv show did a piece on whether or not a passing train would develop "suction" to pull a passenger off the dock onto the track. They built a scale windtunnel complete with smoke injection to test model trains a different "speeds". Their tunnel looked to be about 3 feet square and used packs of large straws to "straighten" the air flow. I think they used a "high speed" video camera to slow down the movement of the smoke to the point that one could see a vortec at the end of a rail car. There might be something of interest there. g

Yep, that is an allison alright. I ran two of those on my Mazda R13B for several years. No problem. They are reliable as any solid state ignition would be. As long as the LED functions you should be good to go. It seems to me the model # was "X-3" or some such designation. g

Thanks folks. Apparently, these are 10.9 [no marking on hex head] . By the way, is Ross still in business? His website is up, but no responses to email. g

Here is a photo for a clearer look. As these bolts will be subject to quite some stress, I want to do this the right [safe] way. I need about .225 inch additional shank length. These are M10 x 1.25 and 1 1/8 inch long. The shoulder appears to have a steeper taper than my other Datsun shouldered bolts. I don't know, but think these are a grade 8.8 [is there a difference scale in hardness grading for metric vs sae bolts?] The shoulder fits into the CV flange, but d/n appear to extend beyond it. The MM adaptors are drilled to accept only the m10 threaded shank and not the tapered shoulder. Any parts numbers out there? g thanks,

Two years ago, I purchased MM's adaptor for CV joints. My half shafts are the 4 bolt version off a '89 300ZT. Today, when I mocked up the half shafts I found that the stock shouldered CV turbo bolts extend only 1/4 inch or so through the MM adaptor. In short, I appear to have only 2-3 threads to screw into the nuts. The outer CV cage has been reversed and every thing fits well. The only problem in that the original bolts are too short. The two local parts houses have nothing in stock that has the same tapered shoulder and a longer threaded portion. Have those of you who have used MM's CV adaptors run into this problem? If so, what was your solution? Yeah, I know... longer bolts; but where did you get them? Is there a stock solution? thanks, g

I'd like to see the effect of a really big hole in the center of the hood as Datsun did with the '73 competition hood scoop, which we all know to be a cover for a very large rectangle cut into the hood. I have one, I'd lend for a test. You'd need to come up with the hood. I expect to close up the radiator intake and use this hood on my 240. g

Wellllll, Ferrari 12 cylinder rear wheel drive [GTO comes to mind] will give your ears a massage, likewise 6 cylinder "D" Jaguar, and, for some of us who are really, really, really old a 265/283 csb, with 10.5-11.0CR, from about 6K-8.5k can really sing. My personal favorite of my cars would be a bridge ported well modified early 13B with a 24 inch 2 into 1 header at any rpm beyond 7K. It redefined the word "scream". g

I used the early maxima brake brackets and the 10" [or so] maxima disk on my 71 240z. It worked well in that it did not interfere with stock Nissan 14 inch alloys. This is largely a bolt in operation, but there were some glitches that I did not completely resolve. I went through about 4 different sets of calipers b/4 I found a pair that allowed the emergency brake to be mounted. Several calipers had the parking brake mount cast into the caliper body; others had a bolt on attachment. They all had a different angles. Finally, I sat down in a parts house and reviewed photos of every nissan rear disc caliper they could order. I think I ended up with calipers from an early 240sx. The units I purchased had a separate bolt on parking brake mount. Still the geomentry for the parking cable was not pretty. I reversed the ends, so that the clevis for the passenger side was routed over to the driver's side. This worked without having to fashion clevis extensions. Next, none of the 240sx calipers were drilled to accept double flared brake fittings. They were drilled and tapped to accept a hollow bolt "banjo" fitting. I resolved the mismatch between the flared and "banjo" brake fittings by having short hydraulic hose fabricated with the correct fitting on each end. This setup cleared my suspension travel, but my z d/n have a rear sway bar so I don't know if it would clear such a set up. Someone on this forum actually located a coupler that would accept the brake double flare brake fitting off the 240z body mounted hard line and then screw into the 240sx caliper. I spent less than $150.00 sourcing junk yard parts, but easily 40 hours chasing them down. Ultimately, I purchased the complete rear disk brake kit from Modern Motorsports in Vancouver. They were mounted and bled in less than three hours, three beers, and three war stories with my pals. However, the MM rear discs do not clear any of my "old school" Nissan 14 inch alloys. g

I've seen one 87 Turbo and one 86 Turbo with the finned aluminum rear inspection cover. Both were open, not LSD, units. The 87 had a Washington state assigned vin. The finned cover is a good indicator, but always inspect or use a field test such as pinning the drive shaft and turning a wheel. g

I know late model 260Zs with carbs have a heavy fuel pump/filter bracket. It is the same as the 280Z's fuel injection pump/filter bracket. I understand that 240Z JDM versions had electric fuel pumps that mounted on the three captive nuts on the cross members. You can see where they are mounted here: I drilled and tapped the cross brace I used to fit my LSD finned cover to allow an alluminum plate to be mounted just in front of the fuel supply and return fittings. I'll post pictures of both next week. You can mount the later two piece pump mount on an earlier 240, but it requires some drilling and, perhaps, a nut insert. g

Infinity, Nissan pickup trucks, Tundra, Toy big pickups, Lincoln and Lexus are good donor candidates for a swap. The trucks have manual transmissions. g

Oh,oh another generation gap language problem. My plate needs to read LNGGON. G

Why the flame? Ford/Miata swaps are common. This is the first GenIII Chevy I've seen. The photos are instructive, the work looks good, and I'm pretty certain they are not all photoshopped. If so, damned good work! My MazdaSpeed MX5 weighs no more than 2300# I'd like to know what the finished swap weighs. Must weigh less than the Ford 302 [Monster Miata says only 250# added] swap. By the way, check out this website: http://www.monstermiata.com/ g

Yep. I hope he's as happy as I am. g

Not a real common part. I looked for a year for one before I found someone who had one and would part with it. Yeah, I traded a 300zt clsd and cv joint axles for it. I think it was a perfect trade for both of us.

I think you might be able to use the uncut Subaru inner tie rods ends if you use CarQuest part #ES2467R for the outer tie rod ends. In this photograph the stock Subaru outer tie rod end is at the top of the photo; the bottom photo shows the CarQuest part with a machined fitting. Ignore the fitting, that is a workaround part for my Subaru swap, and note how short the CarQuest part is. The CarQuest taper is very close, if not identical, to the S30 steering arm. Here you will see three parts. Again the Subaru tie rod on the top; my machined fitting in the center; and the CarQuest Part threaded onto an unaltered Subaru inner tie rod. The threads are the same. Now, does anyone have any information on the fluid line hookup from a late GenIII Chevrolet power steering pump to the Subaru rack? g

If you are thinking about converting any of these engines to RWD for a Z swap, you MUST read this: http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=71020&highlight=supra One or the other bell housing from different Jeep products will mate a five speed Toyota Supra Turbo transmission to each of these engines. The information appears pretty specific. Hope its good information and not the ramblings of some some dude repeating something he heard at a bench racing session. g

My wife's driver is a PT Cruiser GT with the 2.4L Turbo HO (215 or 220hp) Great car, terrible gas mileage, and lots of torque steer if you are turning left and hit the power hard. I'd put one in another z in a heart beat, but I'd use a Supra manual transmission. Here is something I pulled off a MoPar site. Posted for informational purposes only. The Jeep/Dodge AX15 5-speed, the Jeep NV3550 5-speed and the 87-92 Toyota Supra Turbo R154 5-speed all share the same case to bellhousing bolt pattern. As such there are a number of possibilities that can be had when a 5-speed is desired: 94-95 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects R154 to any K car based 2.2L-2.5L L4 in a RWD application. 94-99 Dakota 3.9L V6 Bellhousing: Connects R154 to any 3.9L V6 and any 273/318/340/360 V8. 96-99 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects R154 to any Jeep 2.5L L4. Because of it's GM inherited bolt pattern, also works with any Buick FWD V6 and supercharged V6, any Chevrolet 2.8/3.1/3.4 V6, any Cadillac 4.1/4.5/4.9 V8 and with a minor modification, any Olds Aurora DOHC V8 and Cadillac DOHC Northstar V8. 88-99 Jeep 4.0L L6 bellhousing: Connects R154 to any AMC 290/304/343/360/390/401 V8 and any 72 and later 232 L6 and 258 L6. 01-03 Jeep Liberty 3.7L V6 bellhousing: Connects R154 to any 3.7L V6, 4.7L V8 and 5.7L Hemi V8. R154 Ratio’s 1st 3.30:1 2nd 1.95:1 3rd 1.34:1 4th 1.00:1 5th 0.75:1 Rev 3.20:1 The R154 is a particularly robust transmission. It shares it's design with the AX15 but is built to a different spec. Not in the Tremec class, but better than a T5. It would work well in certain applications. The deciding factor to use something like this would probably be cost. Good used R154's can be had for about $300 and bellhousing for about $50. Converting to a hydraulic clutch would add a bit more expense but still, nowhere near the price of a Tremec. So, if you've got a 318 2 barrel in your daily driver, this might be for you. It should be pointed out that Australians LOVE these gearboxes for V8 conversions. So, this is what CAN be done with stock, boneyard parts. Enjoy. I could live with that transmission. g

Oh, Oh. I have the same header and about to mount it on a cast iron block 5.3 GenIII engine. The motor mounts were to be corvette units with corvette insulators. Besides grinding down a boss, does any one see any conflict with the GM 'Vette motor mounts. g

You have a few choices. For me, I chose to use the RT mount with aftermarket Engergy mount and retained the stock cross member that held original differential nose mount and located the lower control arms. I'm using this set up only because, while I understand the poly mount is interlocked, I feel more comfortable knowing the differential nose drop will be limited in the event of a failure. The other is I consider the crossmember mount to be additional bracing to the driveshaft tunnel. The RT mount is a work of art. Hated to paint it. g

This entire website is all about performance and engine swaps into the Z. If you are just thinking about it, then go to Summit and buy both manuals by Jaguars That Run: the Chevrolet engine swap and the Fuel Injection guide. Look here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Chevrolet_TPI_TBI_V-8.html Welcome aboard. Remember, spend some time with the search button: the information you seek is probably here. g