madkaw

I've been trying to search for ideas on hiding the engine wiring harness but I am not finding much. Maybe i am not using the right phrasing in the search but can anyone help me. I am considering hiding or rerouting the wire harness altogether to clean things up. Might consider rerouting brake lines too!!

Bart, I just did this process with my 240. If we are talking about the body side molding trim those hole were pretty small. Just practice, practice, practice on some scrap. Duplicate the hole size on the scrap and try filling it. Start at the outside edge of the hole and try to weld around the diameter of the hole slowly working inward. Mig welding is pretty easy to catch on but try on some scrap. Careful about hammering to "lower the spot" because you are on a body line and makes the body work more difficult. You would have to do a lot of welding to warp that panel since it is such a small area. Good luck

It's not as pretty as a Ron Tyler mount but do you think it will do the job? My lower mount is fairly new so I just came up with this idea for the strap. I plan on gluing some rubber on the strap to put between the strap and the diff. I'm running a 2.4 slightly modified if that makes a diff-----erence

Naviathan is wrong, the turbo came with the 3.54. If you check gear ratios of the trans of the bw t-5 you'll see that your first and second gear will be extremely low with the 3.90 rear. That's a good deal for my NA engine , not good for the turbo motor.

''The curse begins when you mix up the hdwe from 2 different types of trannies you have kicking around your garage'' yes, i have been cursed great read Jon, I guess i need to re-evaluate my situation

Jon, isn't there just 2 types of collars and flywheels for the 75-83 Z's, one for the 2+2/turbo(240mm) and one for the coupe(225mm). So the collar and pressure plate has to match the flywheel(Actually a clutch pressure plate from a 225mm flywheel will not bolt to a 240mm flywheel , but the actual trans doesn't make a difference. Bottom line is buy a clutch kit for the right flywheel. I just found this out the hard way by giving my machinist my 2.4 flywheel instead of the BWt5 flywheel. Guess what?, the original-clutch won't work so I have to buy a new kit-so much for saving a buck

I e-mailed Rota and they said by Feb, they will have 16x8 either 04 or 14 offset!!

How much???

On the Rota home page there is no mention of 8" wheels. But I do see what your talking about

Okay, I'm not seeing a 16x8 wheel by Rota. There is a 15x8 with +12 offset. I'm not sure that will clear the strut. Nice wheels though. If they did have 16" I would make'm fit somehow !!!!!

Can anyone tell me whether pHC clutches are oem for a 82 zxt bw t-5?? The clutch looks very good but wondering if is a repalcement or the original with 60K miles on it. Thanks

money sent!!

Well I'm hoping a Kaminari falls into this test somewhere:-) . I would like to think all that money i spent on that expensive air dam was not just for looks. I realize and that all this parts swapping with be cumbersome in one day and wish you all well in this project. Hell , I hate to say how much time i have spent in trying to mount my Kaminari . I will be donating shortly for what i feel is a worth while cause.

Is that stock valve sizes? Love the Silver!!!!

"AND the subaru R160 units have the same spline count and can be converted this way too... " BJ, do you know what years that would be . I am very interested in the easy swap to a newer suby rear and the weight saving over a r200 is something to be considered. Jon, great right up. You sure save us a lot of questions and research. Then again , you sure cause a lot of questions and researchfor me:lol: if you know what I mean. Lot's of alternatives here , but not complaining!!!

Battery?

There is a set on ebay that closes out tonight and he has dropped the price on the gunmetals to 299$. There were 399$ i believe and i think the ones with the black centers still are 399$ . I would jump on it but money is a little tight right now :(

Paul , sounds like i am at the limit then. Good thing my machinist talked me out of 10 to 1. He figured right at 9.55 to 1 on my head. The chambers cc'd at 41.5 but the bore is notched for my big valves that has reduced the CR . I don't want to run on AVGAS!!

Well I have been reading as much as i can on this and I think i did do something wrong. Since my dial indicator doesn't have a long stem I believe I had the indicator at a slight angle on the valve which would have changed the numbers slightly. Some of you valve geometry GURU's might be able to tell me how that effected my numbers, I didn't do very well in geometry during school but I am thinking that this would cause my numbers to come in late which would make my numbers look better. Anyone????

You'll find on these forums that everyone has an opinion on what works and very little people mess with the the 2.4 block. Yes, 280 blocks are abundant and relatively cheap and displacement is easy horsepower but not that much. Unfortunetly your head that year seems to be the less desirable for hotrodding but you should have the bigger ex. valves which is good if that is the case. I believe your going to have to cam that head to take advantage of the header and carbs. I believe the combustion chambers are not the best and need to up the cr to get a litttle more punch. I am in the process of doing my 71 2.4 but I have put a LOT of effort to get more ponies (lots of cash too). 12 sec norm had good luck with his 2.4 but you will find not many folks have really massaged the 2.4 as much as the 2.8. I think the folks that have ,have been happy with there motor. search on zcar.com for 2.4 too.

Finally got my head back from the shop(another story), but I put the degree wheel on her this week and would like some feedback guys. What I have is a e-88 head that has been completely redone with 280 s.s.valves and I installed a stge 2 schneider cam kit ,274-f grind going on a .40 over 2.4. The cam card calls for 2 degree intake opens btdc -2degree ex. closes atdc 32 degree intake closes abdc 36 degree ex. opens bbdc My numbers cam up 1 degree intake opens ADTC 3degrees ex.closes btdc 34 degrees intake closes abdc 35 degrees ex. opens bbdc First off, what is up with the negative degree number on the exhaust side. I am interpreting this as 2 degree btdc-am I correct? I used the #1 hole on the sprocket since the other holes took the numbers further away from specs. And yes I did find tdc the right way with a little help from BRAAP sticky. Doing the math I concluded that my intake center was right on-do you agree?