madkaw

Oh man, I can't wait to post--Finally got it painted- Looks great!!!!!!!!

Sorry about your luck ,but I had to snicker abit after seeing where you are from. It's like that bumper sticker "people suck".

I had to do this job this past week so i thought I would post some pics. I had found threads on -how to- on removing the outer bushings but not to many pics. You know pics say a thousand words so I will post some. I also came across a better way (for me anyway) to remove that tough rubber of the old bushings. I took a 1" hole saw and it fits over the inner part of the bushing perfectly to use as a guide.It also takes out most of the rubber from the outer shell which helps you see what your doing better when you start cutting. The hole saw rips thru the rubber in 30 seconds and no burning rubber.A side note: I would highly recommend leaving the inner bushing bolts installed while you are working on the control arm. The reason being, is if the control arm -somehow:roll: - slips out of the vise, it will not fall on the floor and possibly damage the threads on the outer bushing. The outer bushing shell is just hard careful work. I would NOT recommend any power tools(i.e. sawzall) to cut the bushing shell-too much chance of cutting too much!! Take a file or sander and clean off the edge of the bushing so you will see accurately the cut you are making.This would be a good time to spray some penetrant on the bushing to help it slide off easier later. I like to make atleast 2 cuts if not three to really weaken the bushing. Then I work the area between the cuts and start peeling back the bushing until it finally gives way. I hope this helps out someone with a job that can be very frustrating.

I want to say a special thanks to Dave for his help and the use of the spindle puller program. Although one side gave me fits and I broke the tool, Dave came thru with the replacement parts and I was able to remove the other side easily. I have sent the tool back as of 09/24 for someone else to use. One thing I noticed when removed the pin with the tool was the markings inside the spindle bore. I have posted a pic which isn't very good but you will see what looks like a drag mark that was -maybe left from the original install? It is possible(but unlikely with such low miles) that this pin was changed before but the mark is NOT fresh, it is looks old. The mark starts at the edge of the bore and ends at the set bolt. I just thought it looked strange.

Dave, just curious if you have sent the replacement parts for the tool yet? thanks Steve

No bike at the moment, but hopefully next year. I got to get the Z done first.This is my "madkaw" KZ 1000 I restored a couple of years ago. The prettiest bike i've owned. I'm with Mikekelly and I am eyeballing the concouse 1400 pretty hard.

More Pics, better pics----please

check your e-mail Steve

Dave, I broke the tool. The threads stripped on th puller and my spindle. I sent you an e-mail. Give me a call

Dave, I am out of town but the wife said the tool arrived today--thanks. I should have it back in the system shortly. Steve

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&category=33701&_trkparms=Algo%3DLVI%26ITS%3D%26ITU%3D%26OTN%3D2%26PO%3DOp1&viewitem=&item=190143997138&_trksid=p3286.m7hat what do you make of these on ebay

I am ready to pull my spindles so if no one has spoken for it i would like to borrow the puller. Please e-mail with the particulars. I will only need this for a day so I will be able to get it back in the system right away. sfinnerty@indy.rr.com

I have a p-30 that i have installed a bwt-5. I had my flywheel balanced with the engine so I need to use the 225mm flywheel. Ssssoooooo, if I buy a standard coupe clutch kit, as long as the collar matches the pressure plate( i.e. 280z coupe ) it all should work-right?? Any recommendations on a good clutch, not too heavy, that will work-cheap helps!!!

bump

Another thread left hanging. So what did you wind up doing with the wheels. There is a lot of folks around here ordering these wheels that would like to know this info---please. I personally am on the fence with these wheels. I can deal with a small defect, but is there any other suprises. Thanks for your time Steve

Aziza, your paint story is inspiring for me since I am in the boat. I want a 10k$ paint job but the only way to do it is to do it myself. I gather you went with PPG ,I think that is what I red. Is that a simple basecoat -clearcoat set up ? I figure I would a little less then then 3000$ in my paint, but I haven't bought all my materials yet. Thanks for sharing!

I had twice pipes on my first Z 20 years ago and loved it. I am older and much more mature now sooo- i opted to make my own twice pipes that will probably be even louder:icon6:

My question was probably not clear with all my rambling . I was wondering if there a limit to tire size before you have to think about adjusting camber on a stock suspended Z with wider tires? I realize there is many factors involved here, but I was concerned about adverse tire wear from not adjusting camber after installing the larger wheels and tires?

With all the choices of larger rims that seem to be popping up here lately for our s30's -Rota Rb's and sportmax- my question is to deal with tire wear and usability. I'll admit that my choice for bigger rims and tires is almost all cosmetic, I will probably not race or will rarely race my car. I am considering ZG flares because i love the look and of course I will put the rubber underneath to fill them if I go this route. So if I am talking atleast 245's on the rear am I looking at needing camber adjustment for my upgraded suspension(non coil over -suspension-tech 1" springs with KYB shocks). Yes i have searched under camber plates but my search brings up mostly folks that have already committed to coil overs and race applications. Is there a breaking point where the "bling" factor of fat tires and wheels will be just be chewing up tires because I didn't do the job completely? I am at decision time with my car apart and i need to decide if I have to commit to camber plates-which then means coil overs-which then means new shocks- which then means $$$$-which then means I go to smaller ambitions and less bling. If there is any direct threads to this please direct me. So much information----So little brain

I personally like the pipe dream of dyno testing different engine components. Though I contributed to the wind tunnel testing with ernest, I would like more to donate towards renting a dyno for a day or so and try some myth busting of our own. I would think it would be feasable to an extent to try different components and their affects on horsepower and torque and see the printed results to share with the hybrid community. Lets say taking a relatively stock l28 and trying headers and versus stock exhaust manifold. How about the difference in the SU manifolds, the n-36 myth. How about larger injectors and there effect. Of course the list is endless but so was the wind tunnel testing. Just a thought!!!

Any new info??? i believe Justin is gotta be right and they gave you 12 offset. Please give us any updates:)

Can you measure exactly the space between the wheel and the strut. The pics are at an angle and it is hard to tell the distance.

Damn, I thought those Rota's would fit on my stock springs:sad:

Owned for 14 years, driven very little:sad:, but she'll be killer soon:icon6:

Believe me i have been all over the internet on this. Not any direct info for my situation so I am trying to put the puzzle together. Shortly i will have one of each diff so i will have the oppurtunity to swap out to my hearts desire. It is amazing the amount of combos possible in a HYBRID Z!!!! I am trying to be sure of my info since I may have a possible source on suby diffs and would like to make them available to the Z folks.