madkaw

I thought I would post up these pics of my new wheels. If your like me you were probably wondering what the Royal hyper black really looks like since there isn't a good digital pic to be found. Well, I took the plunge and bought the 17X8.5 rbrs in that color , so here you go. I would decribe it as a cross between the silver and the gun metal. I like it because it is a little more color then just silver , but not quite the dark gun metal. Tell me what you think. Sorry, no tires or lugs, so no test fits yet. They do weigh in at 20.5lbs.

I called the number on the site and found out what the numbers mean: SS-55= denotes what cam grind This cam in particular was advertised duration and lift @.050 valve lift 220degrees @.025 valve lift 246 degrees with 1.5 rockers 480 lift It was said to be a street/slalom cam 575-147= May 1975, 147 cam made 575-147

I will do that Tony(check back). I will post up what they tell me. So you saying that this cam is old stock from Racer Brown. I have never read anything bad on the Z sites about Brown, infact it seems that this is desirable stuff. This cam might have to be saved for a future stroker:-D.

I can't see where my cam is on their charts, I guess I will have to give them a call.

I have aquired a racer brown cam and would like some help deciphering the # on the cam. Check out the pic, can it possibly be 575 lift:eek2: The springs are definetly stout enough.

ebay has some Exedy clutches for the Z31 turbo for a good price. i asked the seller for a cross reference to the 280zxt and i think I stumped him. Either that or he is working on re- advertising the clutch. If you search around the vendors you'll find a lot that group the 300zxt and the 280zxt together selling the clutch kits.

I am in the market for a clutch and have noticed that in some advertisements that the 280zxt is grouped with the 84-86 300zx turbo. I have also seen clutches advertisements for just the 84-86 300zx with no mention of the application for the 280zxt. So they used the same set up with no exceptions? I have found a good deal on a exedy for the 84-86 turbo(240mm-24 spline) and I want to jump on it , but want to make sure . thanks

The pics here show an early pedal box-pre 72 i believe with 73 pedals. As you can see the clutch MC is not lined up with the pedal . What's up with that. Does the earlier pedal have a different offset? Any help please!

By the way, the wheels do look great!

What's your plan for the front caps? I've seen so many of these wheels that look great till you see the caps missing. No one has posted their solution for this problem.

I have a good set with new bearing not installed that i will sell you for 60$ shipped. I don't need them anymore. Steve sfinnerty@indy.rr.com

operating system?? can you elaborate for this dummy?

Please help me to figure out why hybrid is so much slower at home compared to at a hotel. I have cable internet, I don't think I can get any faster. But when I visit the the site at home it will take forever to download every page I look at. No other site seems to be as slow as hybrid. I love this site but i save my surfing for when i am in a hotel(which is a lot). With the same laptop I use at home the site loads quickly when i am at the hotel, I can't figure it out. I am not a computer guy so if this problem was with my server(roadrunner) I wouldn't know how to argue that fact. Any advice??

I'm looking at this kit also. It does sound good to be true, but valeo is the same clutch you will buy from Nissan and we know how well the stock stuff holds up. The original clutch out of my 280et was a valeo and i haven't heard anything but good things about oem in these cars. I am tempted to order this kit just to see the flywheel. 190$ is not a bad price for a turbo cluch set up anyway and you get the flywheel too!! I have a stock 240mm flywheel to compare to also. I am also going to email valeo to ask about their flywheel. I also found a performance valeo slutch set up on ebay for 190$ without the flywheel--decisions -decisions

Once again searching has left my little brain hurting more then anything.:ugg: I have a 2.4 that i am mating to a 82 turbo BWt-5. When I had the engine assemblies balanced I gave the machinist the 225mm flywheel instead of the 240mm flywheel. From what i read from the archives the 225mm will be fine for my hot street motor. I want to use the 225mm because it has been balanced but i want to make sure i put this together correctly. I have read that for my set-up, I can use the 225mm with the BWt-5 as long as I use the 225mm throw out collar along with the 225mm clutch kit. Do I also need to use a fork from a 225mm flywheel? I would be glad to hear any good deals anyone has gotten on a performance clutch for their car. Please correct me if i have this wrong so I can get this clutch ordered.

One more ? Dtaylor! I noticed the caps are on the front wheels. I have heard of problems with the bearing caps not allowing the wheel caps to sit correct-any problems with yours??? Thanks Steve

GARY!!! Isn't that the murder capital of the world:eek2: Isn't there a chicago Z club, maybe someone is close from that club.

Well captain furious I am curious myself about the crossover effect myself and what's killing me is that it is sitting in my garage attic ready to be tried. Damn I gotta get moving on this car Great sound austin!

Jon, Hope this goes with the flow of this thread but I wanted to know is whether the yokes for all these r160,r180,r200 are interchangable?

I have been educating myself thanks to the helpful links from you guys-thanks! The "how to modify" book shows 9mm rods were in 2.4s after 5/71 but I have read on the sites that they were in later years-like exclusively in the 73 model. The zhome site says that the 9mm are also lighter then the 8mm that is why they are prefered. Is there a way to tell just by looking at the rods or do you just need to measure rod bolt? Any testaments to what month/year you got your 9mm rods from?

Thanks for the helpful links. The Zcar home page is very helpful and maybe I can come up with some more intelligent questions this time.

I am gathering parts for a cheap stroker. I have a diesel crank lined up and I have 240z rods from a 9/71. I am working on getting a 280 block. I have been reading my "how to modify your Datsun" and I need a little help deciphering some info . I know the 9mm rods are prefered and the real early 240 rods are only 8mm. I read threads where some use the 260 rods in their stokers and others just say 240 rods. So if I was going to just make a 2.9 stroker, no over bore, would I need the shorter rods from a 260z? I realize that pin height is a factor but I couldn't find info on the KA 24 pistons mentioned on the threads to compare to stock pistons pin height. It seems that the longer 240 rods would put the stock piston to high in the block. Am I even close to making sense or do I need to back and study. I really have searched but that only complicates my dislexia issues. I also have a line on a 260 block so I want to figure this out before it disappears.

That's what i want to hear. I will buy it and part it out if I can break even or atleast get the diff cheap. Is the turbo engine worth anything, he says it has only 98k on it? I didn't see much happening on e-bay for 300zx parts.

I am looking at a cheap 300zxt for the the diff. I was wondering if I can get any of my money back on the rest of the car in parts sales. I don't know if the turbo is worth anything or not. Any input would be great.

Nick, I just went thru this same scenerio with a 71 that hadn't been started since 88. I was doing this for a customer and I didn't promise anything. Fortunately, the prior owner to this guy thought enough to shoot some oil in the cylinders and turned it over every once in a while(so he said). The guy did drain the fuel out if the tank whih was great! I sprayed the cylinders as suggested and turned it over by hand first, then by starter, then eventually put fuel and fire to it. When I first started it I had 2 dead cylinders-valves stuck open slightly which causes the lash pads to turn sideways and not allow the valve to close all the way. Do a compression check when using starter to turn it over. If you have 0 on a cylinder that is probably what happened. Compression levels after starting were all over the place 90psi to 150 psi. Now that I have 30 minutes on the engine the compression levels are all up around 175, not bad for a old engine that sat around for 20 years. It smoked and still smokes a little, but seems to get better all the time, I need to get some highway miles on her. The original fuel pump still was good but the rubber diaphram was starting to dry rot. Have several fuel filters handy to replace after running the first couple of times. You will have to pull fuel tank and clean it or you will have a lot of problems. I had to replace filters AFTER cleaning the tank because the lines produce crap too! You might want to try some Marvel Mystery oil in the oil with your oil change to help break in the old motor. By the way, the little 2.4 still has it, lot's of power, she still wants to go after all these years:razz: