madkaw

I didn't want to take a chance and I believe it compliments the unshrouding effect done on the combustion chamber. There isn't much room for flow after installing the bigger valves.sure like to hear this baby run!!!!

I'm glad to see others in the same dilemma. My car is almost 100% rust free with minor body work which has held ne back from doing the flares. I love the look and I hope to put big enough meat under there to fill them, but yet I hesitate. I have already shaved off the rear bumper, but I stop to think about the ZG flares. If I get the 17X9.5 Rotas I won't have a choice. It will still will be tough to start cutting. I know in the end I will like them and it's really about what your perspective on how it looks!

I thought I would include this photo of my head. It seems different then the E-88 in the first post that was found on a 260. Please correct me if I am wrong but the chamber is shaped just slightly different and is not as open,granted this head was shaved .010. My car is a 9/71 production so i guess this would be the middle series e-88. Oh, I forgot, I did put the bigger valves in this head which brought my chamber size down to 39.5 I believe.

All i can say is that I drive something different! Actually I am very happy with the truck/ car compromise and with the turbo it goes like stink. I needed 4 seats(kids) and wanted a truck bed but didn't want a truck,this is the only car that fit that niche. I really do like it-the looks are definetly subjective

I still would like to see a dyno day similiar to wind tunnel testing. I would think a dyno would rent much cheaper then a Nascar wind tunnel. Surely we could come up with enough combinations to test to make this worth while. More folks on this web site are concerned with HP then I believe areo efficiency. I realize this means a lot of wrenching and you would want to use the same platform(base engine) to get accurate results, but it could be done -couldn't it. It would be a Hybrid Myth Busters . I would think there would be more vendors that would get involved then was in the Tunnel testing. Things that could be busted 1) 4bbl vs. Su 2) Fuel Injection vs. both 3) n-36 manifold 4) header performance 5) electronic ign vs. points 6) mechanical fuel pump vs. electric 7) clutch fan vs. electric fan 8) triple webbers vs. all Just a thought- could it be done or would anyone else like to see this!

I tried the exhaust through the valence but changed my mind and just did the cut outs on the bottom edge. There isn't much room under there for mufflers and putting the exhaust that high even limits more what you can put in. Plus i had a fuel tank filler neck to work around.

From the AZC web site - Front Brake Installation Note: the outboard edge of the lower control arm may need to be trimmed or ground down so it will not rub the inside face of the rotor (see red arrow), you must check for adequate clearance BEFORE DRIVING! and with the car on the ground with the suspension under full load!

What are you guys doing with the rota cap on the front? I see the caps missing on a lot of pics. I assume that they will not fit over the bearing cap.

I haven't read of anyone making a true dual exhaust for the L6 with a x -pipe so I guess that makes mine different. Sorry i can't brag about how it performs since my motor isn't back in the car yet.

I also purchasedc the AZC rear brakes ,but I did ponder the idea of the parking brake. I will also go with AZC up front and planned on questioning Dave on the actual usefulness of the line lock as a parking brake. And I don't think brakes can be overkill, or if I was going overkill ,that is one area I would do it. I just didn't like the kit options out there except for MM ,and the price difference was not that much considering your getting a (imho) a much better brake system. Good luck with the car and keep the thread going.

I have used the por-15 ,a lot, and it is for real. In your case if it is new metal you will want to spray it down with metal prep first before you use por-15(as recommended) to etch the metal. The por-15 loves texture to grab on to . Epoxy paint would also be great but I think the por-15 would be a heavier and tougher coat then anything if you follow the instructions. You should buy their package to get the marine clean and the metal prep with the paint. You will be impressed with the marine clean-the best degreaser I have used--period

I guess I've had these apart to long, tell me what I am doing wrong! The pics are the passenger side of a 71. I thought the rear shoe slid between the cylinder and the emergency brake lever???? The shoe hits the adjuster lever, what am I doing wrong here??

It would have to be MULLs. It encompases all the advantages of internet web sites as far as entertainment and knowledge at the same time. Granted it is more fun than a learning thread, this kind of thread makes this sites great to be part of.

Bo, where did you get that great looking air dam:biggrin: How did the holes line up?

Well I done screwed up not taking my time with my spindle pin installation and boogered up one of the outer control arm bushings(metal bushing). Anyone holding on to a partial kit so I don't have to spend 50$ to replace one part??? Or do you know who sells individual pieces for the urethane kits?

Usually around 15,000 hp or more I start getting worried about taring s#*! up. It's actually the torque that starts ripping things in half --300,000lbs:grin:

I guess all these cars have some roof damage. My car had two dogs dancing on the roof after ripping my car cover completely off my car and taking the side view mirrors with it. I wanted to shoot them dogs. When I finally started my roof i decided I was going to see how many of the dents I could beat out with my hand. I was suprised how well it turned out by hitting upwards with the palm of my hand. My hand was sore when i was done but I know I saved half a gallon of bondo. BJ, those exhaust cut outs look good and familiar- is this a v-8 car?? i

I contacted Kim about these wheels and she sent me this Hi Contact gtmwheels@yahoo.com 1-650-491-3284. Kim I contacted these folks and some guy called me a week later. He said he had several sets on hand. This guy said he thought the wheels weighed 25 pounds. I said I thought that was a little high and asked if he could measure them for me. He said -sure dude- and I never got another e-mail or the pics I asked for in the hyper black color. If I was more serious to spend I would have persued it further but I just took my family to disney and i am broke:-(

Oh man, I can't wait to post--Finally got it painted- Looks great!!!!!!!!

Sorry about your luck ,but I had to snicker abit after seeing where you are from. It's like that bumper sticker "people suck".

I had to do this job this past week so i thought I would post some pics. I had found threads on -how to- on removing the outer bushings but not to many pics. You know pics say a thousand words so I will post some. I also came across a better way (for me anyway) to remove that tough rubber of the old bushings. I took a 1" hole saw and it fits over the inner part of the bushing perfectly to use as a guide.It also takes out most of the rubber from the outer shell which helps you see what your doing better when you start cutting. The hole saw rips thru the rubber in 30 seconds and no burning rubber.A side note: I would highly recommend leaving the inner bushing bolts installed while you are working on the control arm. The reason being, is if the control arm -somehow:roll: - slips out of the vise, it will not fall on the floor and possibly damage the threads on the outer bushing. The outer bushing shell is just hard careful work. I would NOT recommend any power tools(i.e. sawzall) to cut the bushing shell-too much chance of cutting too much!! Take a file or sander and clean off the edge of the bushing so you will see accurately the cut you are making.This would be a good time to spray some penetrant on the bushing to help it slide off easier later. I like to make atleast 2 cuts if not three to really weaken the bushing. Then I work the area between the cuts and start peeling back the bushing until it finally gives way. I hope this helps out someone with a job that can be very frustrating.

I want to say a special thanks to Dave for his help and the use of the spindle puller program. Although one side gave me fits and I broke the tool, Dave came thru with the replacement parts and I was able to remove the other side easily. I have sent the tool back as of 09/24 for someone else to use. One thing I noticed when removed the pin with the tool was the markings inside the spindle bore. I have posted a pic which isn't very good but you will see what looks like a drag mark that was -maybe left from the original install? It is possible(but unlikely with such low miles) that this pin was changed before but the mark is NOT fresh, it is looks old. The mark starts at the edge of the bore and ends at the set bolt. I just thought it looked strange.

Dave, just curious if you have sent the replacement parts for the tool yet? thanks Steve

No bike at the moment, but hopefully next year. I got to get the Z done first.This is my "madkaw" KZ 1000 I restored a couple of years ago. The prettiest bike i've owned. I'm with Mikekelly and I am eyeballing the concouse 1400 pretty hard.

More Pics, better pics----please