madkaw

The reason I ask for the yoke swap is that i am currently set up with the bw t-5 trans with mated driveshaft and diff. So if I went to a subby r160lsd diff later I was hoping that i could just swap out the front yoke and diff and be done. If I could only be so lucky. .... and moustache bar

Will the driveshaft (front)yokes on the the r160,180,200 longnose diffs all interchange????.

What happened to the 16x8's. I've been waiting to see the 16" come out and now I see the 17" are coming. Tell me 17" will work with stock suspension-please. If I am missing something, please point out where the 16" are at.

thanks for the reply. I knew they were lighter but wasn't sure how much. It seems to me it is the best deal for wanting a LSD in a Z ,short of a V-8 -Z. I have read the archives and cannot find anyhting negative about these diffs except the small area for gear oil which could lead to heat problems. For an everyday driver with a modified Z it seems the right way to go.

I have been searching and I cannot find where it is stated the weights of the different diffs-r200,r180 and r160. I know there is a significant difference but can't find the numbers. I might have a line on some r160lsds and I am gathering info so if you have any i would appreciate.Any issues with seals or fitment of stubs? Would there be any interest from the members in these type diffs??

I agree-

I thought I was done but I changed my other mind. I decided that I wanted more room for different mufflers later on -if I need them-. Also the issue of the tips running thru the valence I thought might haunt me later -----soooo I changed things a little

I put single stage black on my bike and it was very easy to use. Any mistakes I sanded with 600 and then buffed. It was amazing how well it buffed out.

well I took the sender out to be able to measure the full side and all I get 0 ohms across the terminals no matter what position the arm is in. Did i burn up my sender or WHAT:cuss:

Man am I glad to see this thread:-D I am putting a early 70's Cj-5 gas tank in my 71 and I was just getting ready to travel down this road. I just measured my sending unit(stock unit for the JEEP cj-5) and it reads around 350ohms empty. Sorry, I will have to take it out to read full. That seems pretty close to the Z ### I am seeing here, maybe I got lucky. I just figured a similiar year would work on the same theroy. Hope this helps.

Dan, are you refering to relocating the rear stock spring perch. I was wandering how many people have actually have done that with success. I don't want to invest in coil overs when i have good shocks and newer technique springs. My springs lowered my car one inch so they are considerbly shorter, so I am afraid to cut them anymore to accomidate raising the spring perch for wider tires.I would think this would dramatically shorten my travel-anyone with an opinion on this.

The wheels look great, but what's up with the front caps?

There is about 2" between the filler and the glasspack. I could have run the glasspacks lower but I wanted to run the tips thru the valence. This could have been accomplished with muffler with offsets also. Glasspacks were 12$ each

the jeep tank is 10x25x16 i believe(15 gallon). I would have liked to have used a shorter tank but I also wanted the side filler to keep my stock fuel door. You might try an early -66- mustang or camaro tank. They are very short but also wider with the rear filler neck. I thought about it but one of the tanks was too wide for the frame rails and I didn't want to work around the support on the Z rear panel

Those look better then mine.LOL. The price is a little outrageous I think. I only spent 200$ on my whole system. I have seen them as little as 89$, but not in 2 inch.

I finally can say my exhaust is done. I threw some parts on to see what the rear view would be like. I need some big rubber on her now!!

mopar 69, I am not using a "fuel cell" but a fuel tank made for a cj-5. I put in a early series cj-5 jeep plastic tank because I DIDN'T want to change the filler position. I am only running carbs so this tank is not made for fuel injection but you could probably get one for FI. The tank was only 125$ but I also bought the jeep skid plate to mount tank with. Check out my photo album. My only regrets so far is that I didn't take into consideration of going to FI later and if this tank would work. There is no baffling in the tank. The biggest pain in the ass is the vent tank on early Z's and making that work with the tank.

Sounds like the preliminary info says my Kaminari spoiler might be worth something as far as aerodynamics. It seals tightly against the radiator core. Mine is not mounted yet if you need it for the next round, it's drilled and ready to mount!!!!! Great work guys! Maybe we can do some myth busting with engine mods under the same format. We could lease an engine dyno for a day and try different SU manifolds and headers and such and crunch the ######. I would donate to this too.

Hey Monzter, those numbers are from a p-30 block at the rear wheels? Your making me feel better about working my l-24 if that is true. Anymore info on what you've done with that motor?

Love the color. I guess i need to hang out at some dealerships to see some newer colors off of the Nissans. I'm not much on blue but that could change my mind. Great Work!