madkaw

I was considering doing this mount for a Z but I will have the original 2.4 and a r200 rear. My question is do I need to make an adjustment for stock driveline angles? From what I read this mount lowers the angle for v8 conversion.Has anyone used this with the l6 configuration . I am rounding up materials today so any help would be great.

sounds like you have the original 3.36 rear which would be way high for that set up.You 'll need at minimum a 3.54 or 3.7 with that trans. Guys have told me that the bwt-5 trans is not very good for the n/a motor. I would definitely try some lower gears and see how you like the 2.4 ;then you might decide it's pretty quick after all !

Jernut, nice car! Just curious how you like your BWT-5 trans . I am going with the same set-up with the 3.54 diff and I am anxious to see how it performs with a N/A engine. I am figuring the first 2 gears will run pretty quick but not sure about the other gears with the bwt-5 ratio spread. Can you let us know how it drives on the highway? How's the overdrive rpms, and how much downshifting to get in a good powerband? There is a lot of folks who say that trans won't work well with a n/a engine, what do you think? are you running the stock shifter? Sorry for so many ????? but that set up is a little unique:)

I've been trying to search for ideas on hiding the engine wiring harness but I am not finding much. Maybe i am not using the right phrasing in the search but can anyone help me. I am considering hiding or rerouting the wire harness altogether to clean things up. Might consider rerouting brake lines too!!

Bart, I just did this process with my 240. If we are talking about the body side molding trim those hole were pretty small. Just practice, practice, practice on some scrap. Duplicate the hole size on the scrap and try filling it. Start at the outside edge of the hole and try to weld around the diameter of the hole slowly working inward. Mig welding is pretty easy to catch on but try on some scrap. Careful about hammering to "lower the spot" because you are on a body line and makes the body work more difficult. You would have to do a lot of welding to warp that panel since it is such a small area. Good luck

It's not as pretty as a Ron Tyler mount but do you think it will do the job? My lower mount is fairly new so I just came up with this idea for the strap. I plan on gluing some rubber on the strap to put between the strap and the diff. I'm running a 2.4 slightly modified if that makes a diff-----erence

Naviathan is wrong, the turbo came with the 3.54. If you check gear ratios of the trans of the bw t-5 you'll see that your first and second gear will be extremely low with the 3.90 rear. That's a good deal for my NA engine , not good for the turbo motor.

''The curse begins when you mix up the hdwe from 2 different types of trannies you have kicking around your garage'' yes, i have been cursed great read Jon, I guess i need to re-evaluate my situation

Jon, isn't there just 2 types of collars and flywheels for the 75-83 Z's, one for the 2+2/turbo(240mm) and one for the coupe(225mm). So the collar and pressure plate has to match the flywheel(Actually a clutch pressure plate from a 225mm flywheel will not bolt to a 240mm flywheel , but the actual trans doesn't make a difference. Bottom line is buy a clutch kit for the right flywheel. I just found this out the hard way by giving my machinist my 2.4 flywheel instead of the BWt5 flywheel. Guess what?, the original-clutch won't work so I have to buy a new kit-so much for saving a buck

I e-mailed Rota and they said by Feb, they will have 16x8 either 04 or 14 offset!!

How much???

On the Rota home page there is no mention of 8" wheels. But I do see what your talking about

Okay, I'm not seeing a 16x8 wheel by Rota. There is a 15x8 with +12 offset. I'm not sure that will clear the strut. Nice wheels though. If they did have 16" I would make'm fit somehow !!!!!

Can anyone tell me whether pHC clutches are oem for a 82 zxt bw t-5?? The clutch looks very good but wondering if is a repalcement or the original with 60K miles on it. Thanks

money sent!!

Well I'm hoping a Kaminari falls into this test somewhere:-) . I would like to think all that money i spent on that expensive air dam was not just for looks. I realize and that all this parts swapping with be cumbersome in one day and wish you all well in this project. Hell , I hate to say how much time i have spent in trying to mount my Kaminari . I will be donating shortly for what i feel is a worth while cause.

Is that stock valve sizes? Love the Silver!!!!

"AND the subaru R160 units have the same spline count and can be converted this way too... " BJ, do you know what years that would be . I am very interested in the easy swap to a newer suby rear and the weight saving over a r200 is something to be considered. Jon, great right up. You sure save us a lot of questions and research. Then again , you sure cause a lot of questions and researchfor me:lol: if you know what I mean. Lot's of alternatives here , but not complaining!!!

Battery?

There is a set on ebay that closes out tonight and he has dropped the price on the gunmetals to 299$. There were 399$ i believe and i think the ones with the black centers still are 399$ . I would jump on it but money is a little tight right now :(

Paul , sounds like i am at the limit then. Good thing my machinist talked me out of 10 to 1. He figured right at 9.55 to 1 on my head. The chambers cc'd at 41.5 but the bore is notched for my big valves that has reduced the CR . I don't want to run on AVGAS!!