madkaw

thanks for the post pyro:-)

Pyro, looked for that article and couldn't find it?

That's what I mean Jon, there is almost too much info on these sites. I read and read and sometimes I am more turned around then when I started. I rather have too much then not enough though. I believ i have a competent machinist helping me on this so I am hoping that getting everything set up correctly the first time will be my best bet in the whole scheme of things and then go from there. Being just an average mechanic doesn't help so i am always looking for good advice but that can be very different on a given day

Dragonfly, good advice,thanks. I will document the break in , incase there is any issues. Glad to hear you are happy with your cam set-up. I agree with you that schneider has been at this for a while so they should know something more then me .(doesn't take much for that) I guess modifying engines invloves an infinite number of "what ifs"

Jon, I value yours and other experienced views on this. I have already purchased the kit so I am in for the long haul so getting another cam would not be good solution for me now. If cryo would improve what I have for 25$ i think it would be worth it although I realize this would be hard to prove. As far as cam profile I have read many of your posts and maybe i will be disappointed by my choice but for a street car, that I will race very little, but will be modified, I think it will be a good comprimise. I guess if the cam is too much of a dud I can have a stock cam reground and kill both issues at once. Maybe I read too much from these sites and always question if i am doing the right thing, I guess should stick with what i have and go from there.

Gav, I have done most of my searching on Zcar.com. The arguement there is that the same springs rates are used on different cams . So basically the springs rates are too high for the cams causing undue wear. Also the cwc billet used is not as tough as original nissan billet, which is definetly believable. Thus my question of cryo treating. I am also looking for peoples experiences to back up this or deny this.

I've been reading the archives on the schneider cams and now I think I should have been reading these earlier -before I ordered my stage 2. My real concern is the supposed softness of the cam. My head is being finished at the shop as I speak, and i have a lot of money in this head. I bought the complete msa kit so all parts should be matched and the wipe pattern will be done correctly. If there is a metallurgy question regarding the schneider billet , has anyone considered or done some cryogenic treating of the cam. For about 25$ you can get the cam treated which would increase hardness of the metal to get the most out of the cam.I thought I read somewhere that the only difference between schneider kits and some of the other CWC grinds that vendors sell is the fact that some vendors have there cams hardened. I would also wonder that after the head was completely set up with the cam, and THEN the cam was sent out to be hardened if this would change the set up in anyway.

100LL has a lot more lead then auto leaded gas ever had. What damage it will do ,I'm not sure. When I use to work at an FBO I would fill up my 240z every once in a while(hope my old boss isn't reading this) and the car ran fantastic.

So what about motorcycles!!! Most are overhead cam to shim valve with way more rpms. Are they concerned or is their valve train weight and pressures not as great. Is the cam wear do to inferior metals being used for the cams.Surely oil advances have helped to make up for the losses of certain additives.Definetly an subject worth investigating

Is the "how to rebuild your Datsun Engine" book much better then a shop manual ;surely better then chiltons for references and illustrations. I have the "how to modify " book but know I think I should have gotten the rebuild book to make sure I get the basics right. Saying all that was basically my advice to do it by the book or atleast have a reference to help guide you so you don't miss anything

Great read! Correct me if I am wrong but our cam sprockets don't allow for degree adjustments, it would take a special sprocket to really "degree" our cams. .So would you be just checking to see if you installed the cam correctly?? I did this procedure on my Kawasaki 1000 when I installed Web cams but they had slotted sprockets. This is not a job you just jump into but much to my surprise though, the folks at Web were very helpful and walked me thru the procedure to check my lobe centers.It came down to simple math and reading the dial indicator.

1fastz, just curious what flow ## you've got out of a early e-88. My head is at the shop now and wonder what a base line would be for a mild port and polish on a e-88. My machinist is in new territory with these heads but willing to learn. Any thing else you want to share about the e-88 would be appreciated. So far he has made custom copper berilium seats,S.S. valves-larger 280 valves,new guides. I'm having him install a stage 2 schneider kit. Not sure about C.R. yet Also, anyone cryogenically treating the so called soft cwc cams? Steve

I don't have my book in front of me but I believe the whole idea of doing this mod was to eliminate the possibility if the original plugs from accidently popping out and losing oil pressure. There should be no reason to take these plugs back out so why not epoxy them in.

Not to high jack this thread but I have a similiar ?? I followed the suggested unshrouding procedures in how to modify. What I had a problem with is that i used the headgasket to unshroud the head to the fire ring but when you lay the gasket on the block(l-24), the fire ring extends beyond the bore along the sides where the valves are. Are the head gasket combustion chamber cut out oblong for a reason. Or was this procedure targeted for the larger combustion chambers of the 2.8. I am using the e-88 with larger valves and notched the block.

Take it apart and e-bay it! Actually I could use a good metal headlight bucket-driver side.

call this guy he was very helpful and my 2 row balancer came out great http://members.aol.com/damperdoc/

I looked at my damper closely at it scared me and my machinist. I was having the whole engine assembly balanced and he basically said it was a waste to balance it . Anyway, I sent it to the Damper Doc and had it rebuild,it looked great. I asked if he had any failures with his rebuild and he said no. I asked if rpms were a issue and he said only massive torque would tear it up.I believe he charged 79$ with a ten day turn around. I opted to rebuild rather then a single groove incase I could put Ac back on the car utilizing the second groove

You don't have to do anything to the pistons. You just don't want to notch far enough down that the top ring would reach it. When I get my block back I will try to measure somehow to give you an idea how much.

Cobraz, send me your e-mail and I will send you pics,i just did this but haven't posted pics to web site. I just did the bigger valve deal to my 240 so I can help you out Steve

My machinist was impressed with the quality of these valves. But he wasn't impressed with my research, since I bought these for my 2.4 block-oopps(i'm just a back yard mech). Needless to say we had some clearance issues so we wound up turning down the the head to a 35 and notching the block.There is no way they would have gone in my 2.4. I also bought the guides from the same guy and again my machinist liked the concentricities of the guides. As far as seats go, he made his own ber.copper to match the valves!

I am doing a e-88 the same way on a 2.4 block with .40 over pistons with a 480 lift cam and you have to put reliefs in the block or the exhaust will hit the cylinder. Be careful because a lot of guys are using the 2.8 block so mention of relief is needed but you WILL have to relief a 240 block with bigger valves . This is also verified in How To Modify Datsun book. Good Luck

I should elaborate that my engine is not stock. I am putting 1200$ in a e-88 head and the block will be .40 over and all the other upgrades to make the engine run well.(headers, electronis ign. SU's, balanced engine). I would like to HOPE for horsepower # close to a stock zxt.

Will the wide spacing of gears be that much of a deal for an everyday driver?I want to use this tranny with such few miles on it. Plus , further down the road the engine might see an upgrade . What would be ,or is there a counter solution for the wide spacing.

i realize this question is subjective to many factors but I will ask anyway.I bought as bw-5 speed from a 82zxt that had 60k miles on it. This was lady owned and beautiful until it crashed. Under normal useage how many mile would the clutch be good for. I will be putting this behind a modified 2.4na and the clutch looks great. Am i being to cheap to think about using a used clutch assembly or do they usually last many more miles. Is there a tell tale sign for abnormal or excessive wear on the assembly. thanks steve

I know; everyone is already to jump on the search wagon ,and I have searched.What I want to know is; has anyone CUT the maxima brackets off instead of pulling stubs and was there any problems with that. I am going to the JY and I would think it would be cheaper to have them cut-off the brackets then pull. Since the MM and MSA brackets are only 3 bolts I would think it would not affect the integrity too badly .