TONY C

Does anyone know how to get the axle out of the outer F150 cv joint? I have tried everything. I ended up cutting the shaft down so that I can remove the cv balls and cages but even with a 12 ton press I can not get the axle out of the inner spider and i do not see a clip. Thanks for some help!

Actually ended up moving it back and up about .5" Machined a halo support and front mounts to match the trans angle. Now I am working on figuring CV's and outer bolt on bearings. I wish photobucket didn't screw everyone so I could post pics...

Well I made the front mounts similar to MM pieces using pics of they're mounts as reference. Now I might have made them 1/2" shorter at most. But that still puts they're kit center line ahead. I can totally remake the mounts/ Or make the rear mount 1st and then make the fronts. But the diff just seems to fit easily where I put it. And the rear of the diff once a cover and mount is added it will hit the rear cross member. causing the diff to need to be lower in the rear. As I have it sitting the diff is perfectly level and square to the car. And the front yolk just barely clears the front cross member. Looks like the MM kit makes you cut a big area out of the front cross member/lca mounts to clear the drive shaft.? I guess I just need a bunch of pics of an 8.8 mounted on an S30 to see placement better.

Center line is approximately 1.75" ahead Have not began to figure axles but they will be cv. Looks like the shafts will be 10-12" long plus the width of the cv's

8.8 center line mounted forward of wheel bearing centerline. Ideas, Concerns All Appreciated.

1st for everything. In my 12+ years on this forum I have met and talked to so many Awesome Z car enthusiasts. Been helped and helped many more. This has almost always been a Great community with endless info. I just put newzed on my ignore/block list. Your condescending banter and name calling is Not what a 57 year old Moderator is supposed to be doing. Your a Jerk NewZed. But I see that at your age we won't have to put up with your crap much longer. And Yes I left you negative feedback. Another 1st for me. Enough poor commenting and making others not like you and I am sure that a Real mod will entertain getting rid of you all together. So Long Jerk!

I don't post here much these dayz. I'm still interested in getting one from exlifesaver despite the negative left coast comments... Why? Because he has done the leg work to make it happen with Proven results froma reputable builder and ultimately Happy Customers. And seriously. Who doesn't like to save some coin? Plus who wants to buy some Cheap china garbage that you will have to rework just to have some false sense of security that the Bomb will not drop.? No thanks! Might be good enough for you but I am Way to rowdy behind the wheel to need that on my head!. So far from what I have read the Only sour puss about the whole thing is the Only person here that has NO interest in buying one from Any vender in the 1st place. Because, and I quote. 1976 280Z, essentially original except for a few later model parts. Exlifesaver. Hit me with the numbers shipped to 37803. Yes that is Dragon Country. So you know I will be Slaying the Beast with it! And Mom. No need to comment on this any longer. We get it. But We grew up long ago and do Not need your Mommy nurturing Any Longer. Thanks

PM Sent. Ready to do this.

Is this the correct setup? or is there something better? http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTD-STAGE-4-CLUTCH-CHROME-MOLY-FLYWHEEL-KIT-SKYLINE-RB20DET-RB25DET-TURBO-/191876879226?hash=item2cacc0d37a:m:mnu8kMKE9xj4dEBT-mHDbKg&vxp=mtr Also If someone has a t5 bellhousing for sale I need one. Got several trans but no bells. Thanks!

Someone is a Lucky Dog to get on the first list as I had to regretfully remove myself from it for now. I:m so Stoked you made this and I Will be a future customer if plans exist.

OK. So thanks to all the replies and help. We tested everything and all checks out good as per the FSM. At the end of the test it says if all test are good replace the tpi. Boom! Runs like a champ. Thanks for the help.

Well I pulled it apart to fix the battery size hole. haha.. Basically redid the entire engine bay. motor is back in now. But you know how you take things too far sometimes? Well I decided I do not want Anything bolted back to the inner fenders. Except the coil. None of the relays, fuse links, mounting metal, voltage reg, battery tray up front. None. Nada, Gone, Deleted, Bye Bye. So wen I re routed the wires I routed it all to the passenger floor. All real tidy

Gotcha and it could be. Wires around where they enter the dizzy are kindof brittle. I"ll test it up and report back.

I may go HEI. looks very easy. Will I need to get a single pickup distributor? Or can I just use 1 pickup in mine and leave the other unused? Since I'm on 240 carbs all efi stuff is gone. ALL. Everything. No EFI None. No relay. No wires. NONE. LOL..

It seems to me by reading the diagram the White wire to ign unit I removed would be a ground connecting through the water temp switch and getting ground from an egr cut switch. So if it's the case When EGR cut is engaged a ground at the ign unit where white wire is used to be would retard timing.?

I'm down for an hei mod if you can point me to an easy rite up. I also have a 77 I can rob for parts if needed. Since this is a temporary power plant and electronics I would like to keep cost to a minimum. Yes I completely removed the white wire thinking it was not needed. I know MY BAD> But it's done. I also removed the water temp rely and the ac wires. So to be even more Exact. Wires remover are as follows. Connector C7. Green wire. Goes to the water temp relay and out to egr cut solenoid REMOVED Connector C6. Green/Yellow wire. Goes to water temp relay, water temp switch Connector C5. Black/yellow wire. Yellow/black wire. Goes to seat belt relay, and auto trans if equipped. White Wire from Ign unit to water temp relay and to test port at coil. Test port also removed. If you look at diagram you will see there is no need for the wire test port. It;s all piggy backed in. I retained the wire terminal block near the coil that the dizzy wires connect too. Red , Red/black, Green all make a full trip to the ign unit Full continuity. Confirmed on my Mastech dmm. The blue, blue/black black/white going to the coil all make a full trip as well. Again checked with my Mastech MS8264 DMM Coil is getting 12v on bot sides wile key is on. Blue wire at Ign unit getting 12+v Black/white wire at Ign unit getting 12+v Black wire at Ign unit full ground. I'm not an idiot tat ripped a bunch of shit out of my car and expect the internet to fix it. What I am asking is what do I need to do to help You Help Me? Thanks

Assume I am putting a z motor on carbs from a 3/76 into a buggy and I have the ignition unit as well. How would I wire it up? Just need to make it spark. Thanks

Deleted: Removed, done away with, not there anymore. if you look at a 77 they do not use the parts I removed. No need for parts that run the efi since I do not have efi any longer. I am 100% posative there is a way to make it work without the wire as other years do not have the wire. Let:s assume that I asked this instead. If I have a dual pickup distributor and a matching ignition unit. How would I wire it up. Assume I am Not using it in a z car but a dune buggy or something so your not trying to get me to put back stuff. Only just what i Need. Thanks

Hello Men, It:s been a long time since I posted. But I have a problem and need help. On my 3/76 Is running on 240 carbs. SO I DECIDED TO CLEAN OUT ALL THE WIRES I THOUGHT I DIDN:T NEED. Deleted all efi parts and wires under hood. Ran Great. Deleted all the AC wires and EGR wires to and from the water temp switch and the water temp relay got deleted. and now No spark. The white wire that goes to the transistor ignition unit was also deleted as when I followed in the diagram it went through the water temp switch. So Obviously I created a problem because now it will not spark. The coil is energizing but nothing is telling it to send spark to the cap. I Do still have the dual pickup distributor. So. I know I can get a zx dizzy but I don:t want to spend the coin as I plan on an EDIS system for my turbo setup later in the year. How do I wire the dual pickup so i can get it to spark without using a water temp switch? Thanks for any help.

OK. I say "street car" but I live and drive at Deals Gap so not many other streets quite like that. I was thinking of doing it to a car that needs floors and frame rails anyway and I will make all those myself. Linkage and hoses and drive shaft is a breeze. How far can the motor be lowered? maybe 2" or so? How about the drive? What can I expect? Thanks for the replies

Hello Men, It's been a while but I am back in the game with my 29th-32nd Z car. I was looking around and found a pic of John Coffey's 240z with the motor set back as close to the fire wall as it can be. http://s208.photobucket.com/user/tony280z/media/EngineCompartment1_zps9anz7nxa.jpg.html http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb89/tony280z/EngineCompartment1_zps9anz7nxa.jpg I am considering doing this but have a few questions. Is is worth it for a really hot street car? Will I have fitment issues with a turbo L28ET motor? Any pics of motor and trans mount mods? Shifter will obviously be moved back. But can it be modded to come through the sma\\ame hole in the console? Any other pit falls or better ways to do it? Driving experience? I want to know if I am wasting my time or is it really gonna be worth it? Doing the work is no big deal for me. Just want to get as much info before I do. Any and all help is Greatly appreciated!

Did you ever resolve the trans mount issue on page 2? There is a different mount for a turbo trans and it has a swap in it so the motor stays where it was originally and everything bolts together with stock parts. Swap the front yolk on your original drive shaft to the turbo and your good to go. Disreguard if you have figured this out already. If not let m,e know I have a couple extra turbo trans mounts.

Curious if these can be installed and used in a "Caster" manor instead of camber. I have fully adjustable lca and tc rods so camber is no problem. and I have some caster adjustment as well. But I want more. Last time I used Carrera brand camber plates and installed them front to back. Worked a charm. But I can not seem to source them anymore. Anyone? Here is a pic of my last setup. 7-10 degrees of caster is easily achievable with adjustable tc rods and plates set up like this. Why so much caster you say? Because you can get Wild and the car will auto correct if you just let the wheel slide through your hands. http://s208.photobucket.com/user/tony280z/media/SOLD%2075%20Datsun%20280z%20Turbo%20Custom/DSCF0107-1.jpg.html

Have the first 10 been spoken for? I want in

Looks like you have had alot of us offer you what you want. Why are you still looking?