5thgenluder

Ok how about we throw this in the mix. McKinney or techno toy tuning. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z And why?

Well I got the fuel gauge calibrated. Filled the tires with air and took the 30 mile drive to my speed shop. They have it till weds. As of now they are adding exhaust hangers and welding my muffler on. Making the seat brackets for my 350z seats. Making a charge pipe for my maf and recirculating my bov. Then if that doesn't solve my idle issue they are gonna dive deeper into the motor. When I get it back I will clean the very very dirty seats and take some pictures. ztr. I agree but I can't afford the LSD swap and the suspension. Maybe I have my priorities backwards but the ride is very bumpy, and that's an understatement. The shocks, springs, and struts are all stock. It's like it has no suspension at all. Just a bumpy mess and feels unstable at 55+ mph. Don't get me wrong the stock diff is not gonna hold that power but I'm thinking that being able to slowly drive it in comfort is better than being able to drive faster than the rest of the car is prepared for. What do you think?

I think Jake called this one. From what I'm experiencing I think it has to be the Maf placement and the bov setup. Car is running super rich. I have read that a bov can cause this cause the maf is looking for all that lost air.

well so far I have checked the hose from the iac to the ic. Carb cleanered all the vacuum lines looking for a leak. Tightened every coupler on the ic piping and the coupler that holds the maf to the turbo. I have tightened the bov ( still vent taking it tomorrow to switch it to recirc and also have a 12" section between the maf and turbo). That could be some of my problem. I am running super rich. Its gonna be a long 30 mile drive to the shop tomorrow with the car stalling out at every light. I am also getting a strange voltage flutter. As the motor hunts so does the voltage. Here is a video of what Im dealing with. = edit: just checked. I unplugged the maf and that fixes the idle issue. It holds a steady 850rpm. Obviously I cant rev over 2000rpm. I am thinking I might drive it with that hose clamp off tomorrow. At least it holds idle even though it wont build boost.

Good news. I solved the squelching/losing power problem. Turns out that when I removed the Ic piping to have the bung welded on. I forgot to tighten the clamp that secures the coupler onto the throttle body. So when I built pressure it was blowing the air out around the seal. Now I have a new problem. I can't maintain idle. I set the idle set screw. Then as soon as I rev it up and release the throttle it stumbles around 400 rpm. Usually dies out also. Any thoughts?

HELP. I can't figure out this noise. I'm taking it in next week but I want to know what could be causing this. I had mentioned earlier it wasn't running right. But here is what happens. Under boost the car pulls hard and strong. Then around 3-3600 rpm it makes a terrible sqeelching noise and almost has a feel like I'm hitting te redline or it's stuttering out. I took a sound clip. You will know the noise when you hear it. I did it 3 times in this clip. Edit. Won't let me post sound clip.

I use picresize.com. Looking good. Lots of fun progress. I'm doing suspension this spring as well. Keep the updates coming.

Rear end is on hold. Ad some nice weather here in Chicago spent a little time in the car so far. The car has a tough time staying running on decel. The battery was dead so I replaced that. The more miles I get to put on the car the more I realize how bad the ride is. The rear struts are blown and I am dealing with some 40 year old bushings. My current priorites are as follows. 1. Get the dying on decel issue fixed. Sealing outside help with that one. 2. Suspension. Have bushings looking at coilovers. Want an easy solution. Like the ttt coilovers and the mckinney. 3. Brakes. Gonna do the toyo 4x4 coversion or the silvermine. 4. Diff. Still haven't figured this one out. Leaning toward open r200 with the intention of adding an LSD down the road. Right now it's overwhelming. It's time to start cleaning up all my shortcuts from install. Ie wire management, cover for spare tire well, connection oil cooler, programimg fuel gauge, going over every nut and bolt. I also have 350z seats I'm want installed and I hate how thin and big the stock steering wheel is.

Awesome work. We need pics and videos of it running and Id love to see this brake setup.

The tank must have a vent tube somewhere. On mine the only one I left open was the top breather and vented it back to the filler neck.

David how do you like the sti setup? That's the direction I'm leaning toward. How had it held up on the strip, street, and auto x?

I have been looking around for an easy solution. I like the idea of the Subaru Sti r180 and I saw a post explaining a quaif option for the r180. I'm looking for a solution that will allow me to keep my driveshaft and bolt in with the option to expand. With the sti LSD I can use stock axles for a while and upgrade later. Anyone have experience with this setup? Any other suggestions? The TTT rearend is sweet but looks a bit out of my budget.

Not much to report here. Car needs so many little things but it's in storage for the winter. On the 35 mile to its storage place I realized i desperately need the following. 1. Brakes. Nothing crazy just a little upgrade. 2. Suspension. The rear bushings are shot. Plus the ride is just nasty on the 40 yr old suspension. 3. Differential. I am constantly in fear that if I stab the gas something is going to break. 4. Need to get my oil pressure gauge hooked up. 5. Need to get the bov recirculated. 6. Need a wide band and a tune. My reason for posting this is I'm lost. Mostly with #2 and 3. I have read so many threads on diffs and am more confused than ever. What is a good option for an rb25det setup with a goal horsepower of under or around 450whp? I am looking for a complete setup that requires no major modifications, cutting welding. Etc. I also don't want something that is impossible to find. Any suggestions? As far as suspension goes. I don't really want a race setup. Primarily street driven with a 20% track/strip use. Would love adjustable ride height and same rules apply. Don't really want to have to splice together parts and pieces from a bunch of places. Please help guys.

Brown plug on alternator has 2 wires. White/red and aqua. White red goes to a 12v with ign wire that also goes to the fuse box. I used a 6 amp diode on that wire with the stripe towards the alternator. The post goes to the battery and then from the battery to the starter. Jump the aqua into the post or run a 12 volt constant wire to it. Then their should be grounds screwed into the side of the alternator or ground it into the chassis. This was for my s1 rb25 hope it helps.

Nice work Bonk.

Thanks empracing. I love hearing that. It makes me feel good for gIving back to the forum. I will get this thread finished soon enough. Few wiring updates and basic stuff.

Bonk I am not an expert by any means but it my understanding the plenum is under vacuum not boost. I think you are in the same boat as me and need a nipple on the intercooler piping. I would ask jakeoster he has been a big help for me.

as a side note. Car is running ok. Need to get a nipple on the intercooler piping to run the boost control solenoid. Also need to recirc the BOV. Ordered some parts to get my oil cooler hooked up and that way I can also get the oil pressure gauge working. Have put about 30 miles on the car total so far. Definately in need of some new suspension.

Update: Intake manifold Removing the stock intake is a bit tricky. Their are some bolts that you must get to from the bottom and they are a huge pain. Needless to say it was easier because I had the motor out of the car. But it is not impossible when its installed. I followed a link that I found here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/181826-how-to-greddy-style-plenum-install/ Following the step by step I removed the injector caps Then I pried the injectors out. All this was listed in the step by step in order to cut off a pipe that my fuel line didnt even have. That was a huge waste of time. first thing I did was mount the water pipe from the stock plenum onto the new manifold. have to plug this hose next to the thermostat. like so Mount the Aac to the plenum and relocated hoses like so. Test fit manifold with gasket. Mounted. Then attatch the fuel rails. mounted the fuel pressure regulator. I put it on backwards as the step by step recommended but it turned out not to be needed. pic of the dipstick relocated. removed the temp sensors from the stock intake. mounted them to the new plenum. pics of the water line connected fromt the turbo connected the 2 water pipes together on the back of the block.

Gothalosism. Please do and let me know. I emailed them and they cant provide any pics of it installed. I am curious to see the quality of the kit.

Guys I know you deserve a full update and I promise it is coming soon. Im gonna update the intake manifold how to, finish the fuel system, updated wiring schematic, safc install, few other miscelaneous things. I want to finish this how to. I really appreciate everyone giving me the help over the last few weeks. I almost feel like after I finish this part of the project I should just make a how-to write up and clean this whole thread up.

Just checking if anyone has this front bumper yet. If so what do you think? I want a type 1 look but carbon fiber. http://www.carbonfiberhoods.com/zeffects-carbon-fiber-b-road-front-bumper-datsun-240z-1970-1973.html

Thanks guys. I feel so stupid. I've got mixed info in my head from the hundreds of hours of forums I've read. Maf will hopefully be here Monday. I'll figure out how to recirculate the bov also. Thank again guys for the help. I have to get this thing moving. Gotta drive it to my storage place before this Chicago weather gets worse.

Jake from what I have read the rb20 and rb25det series 1 use a green sticker and series 2 use a pink/orange sticker. How should I recirculate the Bov?

Thanks Jake. Ordering a maf now. Should be a green sticker?