5thgenluder

Might be a stupid question but I have been doing some reseach on limp mode. Can the car be run without the MAF? Every post I seemed to read said that not connecting the maf will cause limp mode. Can anyone confirm?

Took it out for its 1st trip around the block. Need some help. Here is what is happening. Idle fluctuates from about 7-900 rpm. Not a big deal just checking if this is normal. Here is the real problem. The car seems to be going into limp mode. It sputters and the check engine light comes on at about 2500-3000rpm. I think it might be related to how I have the boost control solenoid hooked up. I have the nipple off the intake manifold goint to a tee. One side of the tee goes to the BOV the other side goes to the top of the boost solenoid. Then the bottom output goes to the nipple on top of the turbo. Would this cause that? What else should I check? Here are pics of how I have it ran.

Well I used a diode and it seems to be working perfect. 14 volts all the time. If I turn in accessories it dips for a sec and then goes right back up to 14. Also wired in my safc. Getting a different reading for rpm on the safc than I am on the tach. I'm gonna try adjusting the pulse setting on the tach see if I can get em to match. Will be doing a write up soon.

Zt-r the diode goes on the white/red 12v switched wire? What resistor do I need?

Let me know if the link works. I have completely removed the stock harness I am curious about hooking up the alternator. I have done a lot of research but everything is connecting it to the stock harness or a 240sx harness. What should I connect If I am wiring it from scratch?

See if this works.

Stupid iPhone won't post to YouTube.

Got it to move under it's own power. Got some finishing touches to do and need a few things before I take it for a long cruise but she's living and breathing. Will post some updates and pics soon.

Nm tried it and it worked on the stock setting.

Anyone know if I need a tach adapter with my speedhut gauge. It looks like the gauge can be programmed for any type of ignition type.

The stock one is bigger than the speedhut one. I ordered the fitting I'll give it a try. I tried to pm you but it said you can't accept any more messages.

From what I have read the stock sender size is m12 x 1.25 so I think this should work. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Russell-M12-x-1-25-straight-banjo-bolt-adapter-fitting-with-1-8-in-NPT-female-port-for-use-with-Russell-640910-641110-and-641120?itemIdentifier=773861&_requestid=2500326&_requestid=2500349&_requestid=2500365&_requestid=2500387&_requestid=2500410 Can anyone confirm?

Well I got it started today. Lots of work to do before it is drivable. Idled a bit rough with no AAC but ran none the less. Will get a video up once I figure out how. Mr Jdm I am in Wheeling about 8 minutes from Bob Chins if you know where that is. Im doing alright on wiring but I would like to meet up and check out your car sometime. I am trying to get my speedhut water temp gauge installed and have a question. I plan to remove the factory gauge sender from the intake and put the speedhut sender their. What size is the factory water temp sender? I know the speedhut is 1/8 npt but what adapter would I need to get it to fit in the stock sender location?

Ztr. Funny thing is I was blocking it off as you were telling me. I used a piece of sheet aluminum, cut it to size. Rtv'd it on and used the screw from the bracket to hold it all in place. I really want to get this thing started tomorrow. I dont plan on driving it but just starting it and making sure she runs. Here is what I still need adressed. 1. 6pin near firewall. Ztr said he had one that was unused. Couldnt trace it back to anything on the ecu. 2. DONE. AAC plan to have a bung welded on my IC piping but it seems from what some have said shouldnt have a problem starting without it. 3. still dont know what these cut wires are off the alternator. Any help would be great. Looks like an agua and black wire. Comes off the alternator portion of the lower harness. 4. Blue plug near alternator. Also couldnt get a read on any of the ecu pins on this part of the harness. Might be the vss like Ztr said. 5. Brown cut plug on lower engine harness. Still no idea. Both wires coming off of it are black. 6. Green plug on drivers side. No idea on this one. Couldnt find it on the ecu. 7. Maf plug. I tested the gray wire and it does power the injectors per chris rummels write up. So this should be the Maf. Should I just leave it unplugged? Their is also a female connection on the pass side that looks identical but has 8 wires in it. No idea where that goes. 8. orange plug on drivers side. NO clue 9. Boost solenoid. Not needed. If I did want it how would I hook it up? If I wanted to bypass it how would I do that. Just run vacuum to the wastegate above the turbo? 10. Done Vss blocked off. For now.

David that is what I thought. It should get tapped into the intercooler piping in between the throttle body and intercooler. Motorman. What is the best way to integrate that boost solenoid? Just leave it how it was?

Bohdan. Thanks that was my question.

zt-r. I have a gps speedo so I shouldnt need the vss. Can I just remove it? Or is it a mechanical part of the trans?

HELP!!! Got a lot done today which I will post later. For now I have some questions. I will number them so if you know an answer you can just respond with the number. 1. Where does this 6 pin plug that is close to the firewall grommet go? 2. What should I connect this open pipe on the Aac valve? The biggest pipe on the aac valve. 3. There is a cut wire on the engine harness near the alternator. What is the function of there wires? 4. Also a blue plug near the alternator. What does this connect to? 5. Have a cut brown plug on the engine harness. Does this need to connect to anything? 6. Have a green plug that has a firewall grommet on it. 7. Is this the Maf plug? Do I just not connect it if I am not running a Maf? 8. Orange plug? Where does this go? 9. What is this? 10. Last but not least. This plug on the trans is rubbing up against the tunnel. What is its purpose? Can I just remove it?

Finally got the clutch and mounted the motor. It was a huge pain. The hoist I rented was terrible and to get the motor in It had to be almost vertical and was a balancing act of jacking up the trans while lowering the motor. Here are a few pics of it installed. Ps I am just figuring out the wiring to decide how I want to run it all. That is not its permanent locations. As you can see the oil pan is just barely resting on the crossmember I am thinking I can just put some fender washers above the poly bushing and below the engine mount. What do you think? Please give me your feedback on the pan issue.

Did you just turn your stock throttle body on its side? Or is that a Q45?

Got the motor installed today. It was a pain in the butt. The throttle body doesnt fit against the side on the engine bay. David, I am running a single spal electric fan. Prc custom mounted it for me.

I work in the car audio industry. Dynamat is something I have a lot of 1st hand experience with. Yes it does make a difference. I also removed all the factory sound deadening material when I rust encapsulated the floor pans.

ok so Im working on some wiring following Chris Rummels guide. I dont have the connector he pictures and am curious if this is the ground wire you guys used. It is a thicker black wire with little silver dots on it. I left the pic big for details.

Bohdan. No offense taken. I can't speak for the old owner but I promise to take good care of her.

Thanks Pat. Your pan does look amazing. The motor looks fine to me also.