5thgenluder

Are you using a relay?

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/93859-1971-240z-rb25det-build-thread/page-2 Post 34 has my diagram. Hope it helps.

Sorry to revive an old thread. Zt-r did you mean the Oem rb25 trans boot or the Oem 240z boot? I have neither and the 240z boot is much cheaper so just trying to find a solution.

John would an OSG diff for a r180 hold up well to an rb25det swapped s30? I plan to be in the range of 400hp and similar torque levels. Or would I need to go r200?

Anyone have an email address for Pete? Hasn't logged on in 3 months.

Pm sent. Ready to purchase

Been a long winter here this year. Haven't done any work over the winter. But here's what I'm hoping to get done as soon as we get up to a consistent 40* 1. Drop the fuel tank. Double check for leaks. Redo the vapor line. (Had some overflow issues when hot) 2. Clean up wiring. Also want to add some molex plugs so the harness can be removed. (Every connection is soldered now) 3. Get door panels finished to include speaker openings. 4. Purchase and install new steering wheel. 5. After that is complete. Get base tune and alignment.

Absolutely love this build. Just wanted to subscribe and say keep up the good work.

I want to get a personal steering wheel in the car. Anyone know of an adapter that will allow this to work? Does the momo adapter that msa sells work for Personal?

I am in northern Illinois. I live in the island lake / fox lake area.

Great build. Looking forward to seeing it come together. Wish u were farther south I'd love to help out.

Well it wasn't a bearing. Ended up being a clip on the caliper rubbing the rotor.

Based on my reading I think the swish noise may be related to the bearing install. I am going to try and get that stub axle nut on a little tighter. I didn't have a torque wrench that went to 200 ft lbs so I winged it. I'm going to go rent one from auto zone and see if I can really crank on it.

Ztr I did bleed the master. I got a reverse bleeder so I'm going to try and bleed from the calipers back to the master and see if I can get a little more pressure.

Ray. I appreciate the advice. I will give that a try. I actually put about 30 miles on the car yesterday. After about 10 miles the pedal completely transformed. It had pressure much higher in the throw and the brakes finally started to bite. I'm still getting a dragging / squeaking sound out of the rear brakes. It's a swish swish swish sound that changes with speed. I have removed the check valve from my m/c. Made sure the parking brakes has no tension on it. I can turn the rotors by hand. Other than that seems to be running well.

On my rb25 I plugged it. If memory serves it went to the intake manifold or perhaps the throttle body.

Finally got the car back on the road. Got the desert z rear brake kit and rear coilovers installed. Ride is so much better than it was before. Only issue I am having is that the brakes don't bite like they should or did before. I'm guessing that some air got into the system when I pulled the brakes off to do the swap. I think the master cylinder may need to be bench bleed again. What do you guys think? Sound like a reasonable assessment?

We do it at my work all the time. I'll try and find some pics. Scosche makes a dash kit specific to the iPad.

GrahamV. Does it also have vacuum ports on it? It looks like the stock boost controll solenoid.

Did you do the same thing on the rear? The rear has no bearing so there is nothing for it to squeeze. But my rear upper rubber isolator fits over the d shaped threaded portion of the strut. Should I just bolt the rubber oem mount on the top of the strut then put the 2 big washers below?

Got a replacement stub axle from a guy locally. Took them to a shop to have the bearings removed and pressed. Ordered a desert z rear disk brake conversion kit that I am just going to do while I'm at it. Those are backordered about a week. So my goal is to get this thing back on the road by the end of August. I was getting everything together and had a question. On the fronts I had to drill out the runner isolator. On the rears the d shaped opening fits over the threaded portion of the strut and sits on the ledge. Do I install it like that or do I drill it out to fit over the shock tube again?

Finally got the rears from TTT. Started to put them in. Everything was going smooth and then when trying to remove one of the stub axles I couldnt get the bolt to turn to save the life of me. Needless to say after a lot of frusteration and time I finally got it off only to see a horiblly stripped stub axle. I took it down the street to a restoration shop and the guy said it was long gone. He can retap it cause the damage is past the thread. Here is a pic of the carnage. So I guess my question is. As long as I have to buy a new stub axle are their any upgrades I should do? Are the stock stubs adequate? I had my eye on the wolfcreekracing cv axle kit. Does that replace the stub axles as well. Any help input or advice would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise Ill just begin the hunt for a replacement stock one.

I used this thread as a reference. I have an update in my thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/93859-1971-240z-rb25det-build-thread/

Had te37's on my 350z. I'm interested to see this play out. I would love a set for my 240 but have been worried about fitment.

I used them in my build. See this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/93859-1971-240z-rb25det-build-thread/page__pid__1003012__st__280#entry1003012