DemonZ

You will want to treat the metal ASAP if you plan on storing the car outside. Haul it to a body shop and have them spray PPG DP on it, or (I forget) either Sikkens or Glasurit make a nice primer that is weldable. PPG made 2 water based treatments for bare metal before primer application, but I think it was a waste of my time and money. I didn't like the flash rusty look after I applied it. I'd just degrease it, and go with the weldable primer. If you plan on doing the work yourself, having a dry place to work would be best before starting anything, otherwise you will be redoing some steps. I believe some primers are designed to be top-coated within a certain amount of time, and if you pass that you will have to scuff it with 80 grit?, or in some cases respray it for best adheason. Also once you start down a brand path, that will ususally dictate what line you stay with since the companies don't like trading ingredients and can lead to incompatibility issues mixing brands. You may want to look into plastic media, walnuts, or something less harsh than silica/quartz, as I've heard, you can actually warp the thin sheet metal of the z if you use too much pressure or stay in one spot too long.

that is a pretty cool story though, he really did have a Z once.

Does this sound too good to be true? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/60MM-Wastegate-V-BAND-1jzgte-SR20DET-JDM-HKS-60mm_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ8032844457QQrdZ1

Guess that's what I ended up with... plasma surgery postponed.

Me likes smooooth. Nice work Paul. I kinda wish I'd have just bought the above N42 non-webbed, but since I had 2 turbo-intakes and was port matching, the "while I'm at it" syndrome got me. I was surprised to find so many protrusions inside the intake as well. Funny thing is when plasm cutting the underside of the egr rail, it ignited the soot/carbon in there and shot 6 inch flames out the sides! It sounded like a blow torch. I missed a good picture op. Also, I would like to put to rest the issue of whether the turbo int. man is actually larger than the others. In an old Auto-X, (Steve Webb??) it was stated that the T-intake had larger runners. I recall a thread discussing it here, but can't find it. It's late, so I will get out the mic. and post my tomorrow.

plasma cutter cuts like butter hehe....

Any thoughts on cutting off the webbing in an attempt to have a cooler running turbo motor in a 240z? Or it won't make any appreciable difference? Since the intake manifold sits right above all that turbo heat, I'm tempted to say the IM is making things inside engine compartment hotter. The factory ZXT has an air blower which I'd rather not put in.

must be typo?

regarding indexing spark plugs: I've always read that the plug should face the intake. Is this a V8 vs L6 turbo discussion headed for the synthetic oil vs. dino thing ... I hope not. I'll get the Jim Beam ready.

The Go-Jaks are the cat's meow. I used them before and after I bought my HF cheapo's and put them to use, I felt ill. It's NO Go-Jak The original is steep, but if you can afford it they move much easier, and are much faster (heavier too) moving vehicles around because they have the jack built right in, cutting a step from the simple dollies. There was a company (can't remember) that made a yellow colored knock-off that sold for about %40 less. Think they were on ebay, but never used them.

I don't think there is a difference in 90 vs 90A if they are both solid, maybe someone converted from hydrolics to solid. I don't think anyone has done it the other way around as there is much more work involved. It seems I have seen that head on ebay before... The seller sounds like a member here, maybe he will chime in.

How about the ghetto fix-all "JB cold weld epoxy" to plug the oil passage?

helix, can you repost the pics. thnx

how come I can't see any of the Helix's pics?

I have the 180, good machine, Tweeko gun, 15yr hobby use still going strong. Wish I didn't let the salesman talk me out of the DP 150! (He incorrectly stated I could use the flux-core)

I plan on cutting a P90 2mm to bump compression. Cam timing will be pretty much stock. The pistons are dished. Otherwise the block, and other components are stock. Am I going to have to bust out some clay, and do a mock-up and roll it over , dissasemble thing? What's the easiest way to determine if I'll be ok? Reason that I'm doing this is I already have the P90.

A few JB's changed my mind. I like getting my hands dirty every chance I get. Synthetics suck! I'm saving my pennies from now on for alcohol! In my inebriated state, I recall in the PHd paper, the M 0-40 was somewhat different enough from it's siblings 5-30 that it's probably not purely due to added viscosity modifiers. M 0-40 was a couple notches better than the rest of it's family members in several categories. I thought that was weird, but I didn't argue with the numbers. So that's what I put in the 2001 Honduh, even though it "requires" 5-20. Many years ago, before M 0-40 was available, when I purchase my used miata with 77k. I tested both M 15-50 and M 5-30 at least 4 times during the next few years. What I discovered was: no detectable change in fuel economy and consistently 2 mph higher top speed with the heavier oil. Therefore I don't think the higher windage oil can be that bad.

Thanks Jay, Can't wait to see the write up!

Added protection is tasting fine, especially considering I don't have grease from my last oil change falling into my drink.

Yeah it was directed at you. You were the one who attacked my POV, and so I'm defending it. << So tell me, what advantage do I have to keep the engine running beyond that? What is your clear argument for that? And from what I can tell, the above applies to the overwhelming majority of drivers. 98% of my neighbors don't keep a car beyond 3 years. What is their clear incentive to go from $10 an oil change to 20 or 30?>>> You are sidetracking the argument outside of it's scope. If your main focus for your vehicle is NOT performance, I can see your point. However most here are indeed performance oriented, and suffice it to say if you and your neighbors LOVE, changing the oil of your cars, grease underneath your fingernails, and saving $20-40 bucks a year so you can buy your Jim Beam, knock yourself out. I'd rather pass. < By that same logic, why change anything at all? Why change to wider wheels, or change for a less restrictive exhaust? If best case scenario was factory fresh, then we'd all be SOL. For many, myself included, the synthetic oil proposition is very attractive: extra protection, extended drain intervals, at marginal extra cost. Strike 3, have another JB. Cheers!

Pop-n-wood, wrote: <> I plainly said it's about economics, --is synthetic "worth" the added cost?-- So what don't you get? I defined what I meant by "better" as in technically better, and now you bounce back with that? What's funny to me is how people try and change the subject and fail at seeing a fairly basic argument. <> What study would that be? Yes M1 is ~$4X dino. And If I change syn. 2-3x less than dino with less frequent filter changes, I am almost breaking even. Syn also saves me the cost of wrenching on the car more than I want. The risk of extended intervals is minimal since the studies clearly show that synthetics did not degrade terribly even at 12k. Filter changes are more a function of topping off effects than a cloggy filter. Most contaminants are below filtering size, and oil analysis shows the benefits of oil top-off. You asked me how I defined "better". I did. You say I ignored cost. I have not. In fact I said it was about economics. Wrong on both counts. You want to go for three?

I realize this is almost religious, but I must clarify... pop-n-wood wrote: < I think everyone can agree that synthetics are superior to dino oil in MOST ALL technical aspects, i.e. film strength, viscosity stability, contamination suspension, vapor point, resistance to build varnish, chemical stability, etc... That is the sense of "better" I am using. The heart of the argument is economics. If cost weren't a factor, surely then there is no such thing as over-protection. Everyone would have the maximum. But since everything costs money, SAE stamps are really MINIMUM standards for a class. Simple as that. It does not say how far an oil can exceed it. It's a benefit/risk issue. The contention is, are synthetics "worth" it. For my purposes I'm willing to pay for the added protection and extended oil changes, you may not. If you looked at the link, you'd see that those 2 synthetic oils are really quite tough, and your sited 5k change interval "recommendations" have built in wide safety margins. I wish someone else had saved the PH.d paper, it was really quite good. Hopefully I can post it at some point. I would think someone else here has read it. demidion- that is what my dad's buddy had said too.