DemonZ

Isn't the bore finish determined more by the kind of cutter (bit/reamer) and speed rather than the machine?

That was cool Garrett! More! MORE!!

denny, that method sounds really slick! Cant' wait to try it.

Amazing! I wouldn't have guessed a stock head and cam could go that high. Thanks for the inspiration!

FSM for the 240z has all the specs since the L20A came on the domestic market cars.

Please forgive this mild thread-jack, but it seems unintuitive that 321 stainless is used as a slip joint since stainless expands more than the mild steel. I suppose the expansion rate is lower than the thermal conductivity? Under prolonged boost/heat, wouldn't that tend to crack? I guess you'd be running out of hwy by then and doing +185mph.

Strut bars for the Z help turn in feel and transients for sure. If you have big sway bars and sticky tires the more you will notice it. It will tighten things up. The z hood/cowl area is a fairly large open box, so it's not surprising. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=702 Those sure are some Purdy welds. I really like the attention to detail and the clean install. The welding on the doubler washers is over the top! Very nice.

Kewl man. Keep us posted on it. I'd really like a 21? or 25? window bus. Funny I thought the the old air coolers all used mechanical FI. Any feasible/practical engine swaps you know out there, bang for the buck?

Words of wisdom. Getting a wavy roof straight with bondo is a lot of work. An expert body man recommended that option to me years ago. I foolishly did not fully research that option, and forged ahead with bondo. I got close quickly, but lost myself in the bondo maze later. Bondo work doesn't come much harder than this. But this tool makes a difference, http://www.nationaldetroit.com/tools/tooldetail.aspx?model=900 200 bucks and well worth it. The knock off is about $100, and I think IR makes one. Use plenty of alternating guide coat/spray paint so you can see what's going on.

That sounds reasonable. I am a little concerned that the sun will warp them like some other wood I left out. No sunshine to speak of last few days too... Anyone else? The 8 footers are uniformly 1/4 inch wider.

IIRC Ayrton Senna was killed when his car hit the wall and a carbon fiber rod broke and pierced him through his visor.

I got some 2"x8" x10' and 2"x8" x8' lumber, and the 8 footers are wider than the 10 footers. I got them from Homers, and after getting the pick of the litter (3rd time there, man there was a lot of warped and damaged wood to pick through!) I finally did the layout on the deck and Nooo! the 8 footers are 1/4 inch different than the 10's. I don't want to shim half my joists. Anyone know whats up? I am aware that the name isn't exactly the measured dimension, but I would think that the wood within a "family" should not be off by 1/4 inch.

Hardwood is not much more than good laminate when you price it all out. All things considered, installation, laminate underlayment (to make it sound like real hardwood), and other special detail pieces add up. Laminate is not any easier to install either. Laminate might seem faster because the pieces are bigger, but you have to get them butted up really square or the seam will show, and it won't look like hardwood. Pergo tongue and groove is also oriented top to bottom, so you end up wasting more material. As for wear, there is some pretty tough laminate out there. That toughness is a veneer though, and a really deep scratch or gouge is easier to fix with hardwood. IMO hardwood is a selling point, while "newly installed" laminate is not.

That's right, I remember something like that now. Ah, thats why those Canooks are a gentler people. It seems fishy that the girl is pretty confident at taking the camera. I think most girls would just say, "lets get outta here..." or atleast be hesitant since she doesn't know if they're packin too. Also, the guy with the baseball bat gets pretty close to the gun. I think most gun owners are more careful than that.... so It kind of looks staged. Funny anyways.

The bimmer drive was very kind. I wonder if this was in Canada, eh?

jgkurz, I think I have almost the same clutch set up. It is the TimZ recipe but with an upgraded 240 mm ACT HD PP good for ~600lb-ft. CS was doing the PP upgrade for another customer, and offered me the same deal so I went for it (prolly overkill) too bad the ACT street disc is just shy of 450# which is realistically were I'll hopefully end up with.

jgkurz, are you using the 6 puck or 4 puck? How is the ACT HD PP heaviness?

That car grows on me the more I see it. The flame design is Bayd! Droool.

That will easily take at least 30 hours to get straight enough for paint. It depends on how perfect you want it. If you are unsure, you can "rattle can" paint the doors and hatch with some cheapo high gloss color matching the car and decide if you can live with the waves (you might have to sand it all off when you ultimately paint it and don't use slow drying enamels, epoxy, and metallics will clogg your sand paper.)

First you'll have to determine if the door metal is sound enough for bondo. If it oil cans a lot, you'll run into problems sanding it flat, and the bondo and paint may crack later on due to flexing. It should not indent much under sanding pressure. Depending on how much work you want to do and how comfortable you are, you may look into new door skins. I recommend factory if you go this route. The longer the board you use the straighter your work will be. IMO a long board from your local auto body supply store is a must. It's about 2 ft long, and has waffled sanding surface on the bottom that helps it cut and not load up the paper as easy (make sure you get a flat one). Get some "guide coat" so you can see the hi-low spots easy. The best tip in getting it straight is to get at least 90% of the shape done in 36 grit, and use fresh paper so it cuts the shape fast and even. Work your way from an edge that you know is straight. Fill in low spots with bondo. This is a fine line here, but remember the more you put on, the more you sand off, and at the same time, if you don't put enough on and put more on later, blending is more difficult as different aged bondo sands differently. Just right takes some getting used to. You can move to 80 grit when you are convinced the 36 grit has done it's job. If you try and shape with 80 grit, you won't get it as straight since the finer grit won't cut into the waves, instead it rides them. When the guidecoat sands off uniformly, go over the worst imperfections with finishing bondo. Next, sanding primer will really let you know where you're at. Spray the whold door. Use guide coat and 100-120 to break it, then move to 220-320 and you'll see very well overall where you are. Finish with 400 (500 wet/dry if you are painting it a dark color). Wipe it down with grease remover, and site it when it's still wet; it will look this way with paint on it if you do it right. Sand in an "x" pattern using long even strokes where you can.

what company?

LOL!! I'm curious what the g forces were...