DemonZ

Very cool indeed. Some true friends.

I didn't get it until noticing the surroundings. Recent pics!! LOL!!

yeah I think in producer's minds that common sense safety distracts from the TV "realness" in reality TV. It will take a big lawsuit for it to change, as that's what it usually takes, and for that to happen unfortunatley people will have to get hurt.

Z-Gad, I may be interested. What's the offset, and width? Shoot me a price.

Very well executed and super clean. Looks factory. More details on the car would be great.

that is one of the baddest Z's I've ever seen. Cuddos!

that's got to be worth ten 2" holes right there.

You can't go wrong with one of these-- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=113 The blades are fairly flexable, and you can often bend them into spaces a cuttoff wheel wont. Good for non bulk work. The plus is you can see what you're doing much better than plasma or cut off wheel. Downside is it spits oil, and blades don't last too long. The trade offs are worth it though. Plus you can't beat the price.

dang link don't work

Thanks for posting! No disrespect to those that put in honest blood sweat and beers into the build, but the way it looked to me, the Z looked totally out classed. It's really a shame it didn't run like it was supposed to.

Niiice! Please post some pics or burnout vids when you get it broken in

Nice... but they goofed on the lower valence.

Crazy, but impressive driving!

Looks nice. I would be interested in a group buy.

I'm taking a wild stab here, I think you need a "tach convertor".

I'm in for 16 X 8 +12 offset. That is the proper offset I believe for 8" for 240Z without flaring.

ROFL!! "kitchen worker" Oh the insanity! This place is always good for laughs as well as an education.

Without the flare, it's weaker. The flare effectively thickens the sheer panel around that location, and keeps it from distorting as easily. Without the flare, its weaker. The way I see it, it's not the hole that makes it stronger, it's the flare.

That was awesome!!

Wow! Looks like an airplane. Nice work.

I don't see how removing metal from the existing sheer panel makes it any stronger. It's certainly stronger than if no panel existed at all, but compared to stock, removing metal only weakens the structure. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

There is at least one member here who has successfully MIG welded his turbo manifold with no pre-heating, peening, or other special treatment. He has put many thousands of trouble free mile on it too. Do a search.

Welp, after a week I figured Ron would never call me back, so I called him today. He said basically, the print out that came with the cam goes out the shipping end and is not the same as the one at the grinder's bench. Using his expression "...garbage in garbage out...", he pointed out other errors with the prints, (top page) in red for deg. int. and ex. duration is incorrect at 290 and 280 which SHOULD read 276 and 268 (like the bottom). He confirmed that infact the overlap is 44. (He faxed me another cam card but I couldn't downsize the pic and post here because my new puter doesn't have all my old SW installed yet.) Though he didn't come out and say it, we all got the wrong cam card. Fortunately for jgkurz's confirmation that the cam does work for him, I'll bolt it up and degree it to +/- 1 deg. and run it. Now I go shopping for ECM and injectors finally. Looking for 68#er's. BTW, thanks for the offer jgkurz but too small.

Just curious, what type DA you using? Is it spitting oily air onto the surface? Do you mean after degreasing, the water beaded up? You can never be too clean when preping for paint. My experience is that beading results from reduced surface tension usually caused by oil/wax or other contaminant OR a REALLY Smoooooth surface. Even when I went to handsand with 2000 I don't recall it ever beading; the water more or less sheened off. Foggy memory though. If it were me, I'd do an inconspicuous test panel and see how it goes. Funny thing when I did my Z was, the part I cared least about turned out the best! The lower valence underneath the rear bumper turned out gorgeous. What's sick is I spent all this time on the body work because I wanted black glass, and now after seeing pics of Scottie's GNZ I like the flat black SR-71 Darth Vader look. Ahhh... if only they sold that wonderful radar absorbing paint. Anyhow, usually 500-600 hand wetsand is good to go. I never trusted DA enough for topcoat type work, but I'm all for saving tedious hand sanding. I'd like to give it a shot when/if I shoot my car again. Give us some pics if you don't mind