naviathan

There's a slot wheel and optical sensor in the speedometer for the cruise control. It's a basic pulse sensor so I would assume it could be used for another gadget.

Actually I was hoping this car would eventually be my show car. Out of site out of mind doesn't work for me. If I know it's there it ill irritate me until I fix it.

Sounds good, but lets see if he comes through.

His dist is not a dual pickup like the 280Z, it's an optical from a turbo. He showed a pic.

This might help: Courtesy of mobythevan and the Megasquirt thread you might use this diagram for the pin out of the 4 wires.

I'm confused, the car hardly makes any noise and it looks like you're casually driving down a straight strip of road.

Although I know a few junkyards that would let me take anything I want in, nobody out here has Z cars. I have a parts car I could pull it from...if that section is in good shape. Have to check. Thanks for the bump Yasin.

Thanks for the heads up on the thread.

After my new fairlady got rained on for the first time I noticed a lot of water pooled up in both floorboards. Curiosity hit me and pulled up the driver side carpets to find a lovely rust hole through to the frame rail that I thought was solid: Now I know I can easily patch that bit of floorboard because the hole isn't too bad and the rest of the board is solid (I checked). I need frame rails though because the only thing that kept this rail looking solid was the undercoating on the car. I emailed Zed Findings about new rails, but have yet to hear back from them and it's been over a week. Anyone on here know who I can contact about frame rails for an 82ZX 2+2?

Yep, it's about time, but I did it. I finally got around to pulling the head off the 81 again. Judging by the white crust in the exhaust ports of cylinders 3,4,5 and 6 I really did a number on this one. All part of the learning curve I guess. N42 head + F54 Flat Top = 10:1 Compression and on 87 octane it makes bad things happen. Fortunately it looks like the head gasket was the only failure. Number 6 blew on the head side of a blocked water jacket; why is this water jacket blocked? Pics: Gasket blown on head side... Block water jacket at the blown spot... Head water jacket at the blown spot... Why block a water jacket in the rear of the engine where we have the worst problems with hot spots? Anyhow, working on ARP head studs, 2mm MLS head gasket, 34# injectors, 14mm o-ring fuel rail end maybe a mild port job while the head is off.

I drive my Zs hard and although I haven't tried the T5 I can tell you the NA 5 speeds don't take a beating well. I've been through 4 of them on one Z, but in all fairness to the transmissions they were all well used junkyard pulls that felt fine at first but after a few spirited back road runs they wore out quickly. Current trans seems fine though. It's lasted the longest and was supposedly rebuilt by the previous owner although the shifter is sloppy for a rebuild.

Any head will fit, but why not just have the valve seats replaced with steel ones?

I think the guy actually took his stupidity well and put it out there for everyone else to see and not make the same mistake. Granted most people would read before dumping a bottle in their engine, but still.

Seen it on Chevys, never on an L6. My only thought would be a 240/260 cali model to meet emissions.

On May 15 2008 at 4:35AM my son Jayden was born. He surprised us by 15 days. So here are some pictures of the latest edition to the family (and future Z Car fanatic of course). He sleeps a lot... He didn't like being unwrapped for his diaper change. He's ready for the garage...

I wish there were more Z people around here. Congratz on the work accomplishment and good luck with the rest.

What do you mean by trigger style TPS? And what ECU do you have running this?

I think I just went cross eyed trying to read that giant run-on sentence... This gets my vote for Run-On of the Week!

I'm well aware...I've seen that wreck...I mean movie many times.

That port only draws vacuum when the throttle plate is open.

I think these are the same wheels I have on my 77.

I don't understand how you can't see the obvious forces of leverage. The thing the statement made above isn't taking into account is that the lugnut mounting surface on the wheel isn't changing thickness when you get a properly fit wheel, but with a spacer or an adapter that's exactly what is changing. | | | |--| Normal Offset | | | | | |-| FWD Wheel Offset | | | | | |-|-| FWD Wheel with added spacer to offset. | | The point of force with the FWD wheel doesn't change in relation to the wheel with or without the adapter. It does change in relation to the hub mounting surfaced though which increases the force through leverage. I can't make it any simpler. Honestly though, do you really think a website that sells adapters/spacers is going to tell you that yes it will increase the stress on your car? Yeah that's good for business. I don't think the added stress is enough to cause excess wear or breakage on the car myself, but I do understand the point that others are trying to make when they say they won't use spacers/adapters.

There's nothing wrong with my logic. A deep dish puts the weight center of the rim at the hub where as a spacer extends the mount surface for the hub thereby increasing the leverage/force exerted on the studs and hub bearings. It's simple grade school logic, increased leverage increases force applied with a constant force exerted. It may not be a large enough increase in force to do any damage when your parts are good, but some people are slapping adapters and spacers on old lugs and bearings that can't take the added (slight or not) stress.

Agreed.

Yes you can turbo carbs, but it's a lot of work tuning. I think you're best bet with the money you have would be to deck the head, shim the cam towers, maybe port the head some, and tune it really well. Get that compression back up. If you turbo I think it'll break your budget.