naviathan

Thank you! There's always more "tools" (Toys) I'd like to get... But I think we all have a list a mile long no matter how much we already have.

HAHAHAHA...DONE! Ok maybe that was a bit dramatic, but I just finished. We got off work early today, around 2:30PM, got home about 3PM and started on it. I just finished and it's almost 6PM. So 8 hours to completely build an MS-II sans drying time which it's doing right now. Once the alcohol bath dries (I'll leave it for at least a day) it goes completely together and in the case. Yay! For anyone interested, this one is jumpered for VR, GM IAC, and Direct Ignition Coil with IGBT High Current Driver. It has the PWM Flyback assembly installed and the circuit is there for the Hall/Optical, just not jumpered. Anyone interested? It goes on eBay here real soon. PM me if you need an MS-II, I sell cheap! $375 + Shipping...

Ummmm, every new car I've seen lately has nothing but electric fans so yes, I would say they're good enough. I would be a bit concerned about power draw though.

Ditto...Never heat up and run rich due the warm up enrichment not shutting off.

Hmmmm, 2 posts, very recent join date and you know about the pinks z....Couldn't imagine you were one of our unfortunately banned members from that little fiasco?...

Damn that sounds mean....I love it!

The wife had to work late last night so I sat down from 6:30 to 11:30 and started assembling another MS-II. I'm still a little slow at these. After a few more I'll hopefully get to a point I can slap one together completely within that amount of time. I did spend a bit looking for tools last night too as they tend to make their way off my work bench and into the garage or other areas of the house. Anyhow, here's some stopping point pics... Silver solder is much prettier that the other stuff I was using...

Nice, now seal that thing up to the radiator and finish the piping then see how fast it'll go...

Wish i could find a turbo like that for $500...Damn...

I was thinking the same thing. The Chevy SS is pretty similar though.

You definitely want to run a thermostat. It's there for several reasons, getting to temp and maintaining said temp. As for the Pinks Z over heating, I think there were more problems there that contributed to it then just a thermostat. The grounding MSD wires and just generally improperly tuned engine were more effective to that end than the thermostat. I don't know what the final consensus was, but I think they were boosting too much and weren't feeding enough fuel in the top end. I think a couple more runs and they would have blown the ring lands from pinging.

Hmmm, the newer models remind me of the new Chevy SS.

I'd be seriously concerned with that one. That poor thing is really tweaked. But, if it's worth the money just check the mounts over real good and look for any leaking fluids before buying.

Have you thought about this real hard yet? A GPS receiver is an electronic device. Albeit some of them are very tough and rugged, they are still prone to failure. Especially in a car that can get 100+ degrees inside easily. LCD screens especially are prone to failure in extreme temperatures. Then there's the visibility problem. If the sun is going down and it hits that screen just right you've lost it, you won't be able to see that thing until the sun goes down completely. There's too many down falls to having a simple GPS receiver as a speedo. Not to mention it's damned expensive too for something that's not going to work if you go into a tunnel or get stuck in a really bad storm. There's also the pick up time. My hand held takes a good minute to two minutes to finally find all the satellites it needs for a full 3d location reading. Don't need 3d? Yes you do. Without a 3d location your speed reading will be wrong when going up inclines or down hills, around mountains, etc... I've thought about this one. I'll stick to calibrating my speedo off my GPS and just keep the GPS in it's cradle on trips. I'm still using my stock speedo too. It was a pain in the rear calibrating it, but I finally got it spot on. I'm dead on up to 60mph at which point it goes just shy of 1mph fast of the GPS signal.

Hehehehe, shameless plug....I have an MS-II on the table right now about to go together. $375 plus shipping when it's complete...

Damn, I'm 5.5 hours away from there.

http://www.photobucket.com

Nice. I've been toying with my interior. I just replaced all the bulbs in my dash cluster with hyper bright blue LEDs. It looks awesome

Have you tried burping the cooling system? You could have an air pocket built up in there that's causing all your problems.

Hmmm, cheap buy for the engine, but have you priced parts? I had an 88' Jag XJS. Loved driving it, hated working on it. Damned starter was $400 and took like 6 hours to replace. Don't go Jag. Don't go V12 in all honesty.

It should work fine, but I wouldn't use it to connect to the Alt to the batt. I'd run a straight shot to the battery from the Alt and then branch off the + side of the battery back up to the engine bay for the block. The less resistance between the alt and batt the better.

So the black canister that all the vacuum switches and lines for the AC system run into is essentially a vacuum canister. Even with a check valve when accelerating you know longer have a consistent vacuum pull, but if you routed a line off one of the throttle body ported vacuum ports you'd get vacuum even when accelerating as those ports don't pull until the throttle plate is cracked. I think my vents are dropping off so quickly because of the bad vacuum switch for the idle bump. Need to get another one.

Ok so I'm sure others have noticed this, but when accelerating in my ZX with the AC on the vents switch down to the floor obviously because of the lack of vacuum. This has become quite irritating lately because it's taking longer to get the vents back up into the panel where they should be and I can't for the life of me understand why. The vacuum switch on the manifold is going bad and needs to be changed out soon (keeps making this annoying buzzing sound) but that's just for the idle bump isn't it? Seems when the vents don't want to come back to panel that damned vacuum switch is making all kinds of noise. Could it be leaking bad enough to lower the manifold pressure enough to loose vent control? Ok my real intent for this thread was to ask a simple question. Everything in the Z A/C works on vacuum (especially mine with the Auto Temp Control). Instead of loosing that vacuum when accelerating why not run a line off the manifold and off one of the ported vacuum ports on the throttle body. Place a one way lock in each line so you can only get vacuum and run them to a vacuum canister, then run your vacuum necessary connections from that. Would that not enable you to have vacuum whether on the throttle or off?

Yeah, but you have to have a red reflector still visible in the rear, which on the Z is built into the lens.

Hmmm, is that legal?