z ya

Will this set up work with 4 lug? I already have my wheels

Thanks guys, I guess I will have to live with it until I want to pony up for the 500 dollar converter!

I AM RUNNING A 2000 STALL.

I have the 3310 holly vac sec and am having some issues with it idling the way it should in gear. The car idles great in park but when I put it in gear it idles down to 600 rpm. The cam is a 286/ 490 comp cam. Well, nedless to say this cam is not happy at this rpm. Even if I raise the idle in park to 1000 rpm as soon as i put it in gear it drops to 600 rpm again. I talked to a carb guy and he suggestedthat I drill a 1/16 hole in each butt- fly on the primarys. he said this with give the motor more vaccum and more air at idle so that I can turn my curb idle down. Has anyone tried this trick?

ARE THEY FOR SALE?

Thanks Guys, I will get one for sure now!

I have heard alot of goood things about these things working on the street. But, I am still a little skepticle. Anyone using one?

So the solid front mount and poly mustache set up is a big no no? I am so frustrated! I dont want to pull off the new exhaust

I think I might just go that route. Thanks

I would love to do the cable fix its just that I barley get on my car and the driveshaft hits the e brake deal. I was thinking if I had any slop in it it would still hit the e brake. How many feet of cable did you use and how did you bind it down? Any pics would be great!

I went out and bought 3ft of cable and the little u bolt things to tighten the cable. Well, first off 3 feet is way to short and once you wrap the sucker a couple times I dont see how you can Really get it tight? It see like it will still be a little loose. Do you have any pics? How many feet did you buy?

When I took the z out on its first ride since the conversion as soon as I got on the throttle I heard a loud noise coming from under the e brake area. I pulled over and checked it out and it turns out that I have hardly any clearence from the driveshaft pinion flange and the e brake conrtols. First off, I know I need to stop the axle wrap so it wont go up their but has anyone else had clearence problems with their 240's in this area?

That is so quick! I wanna see some video action!

You dont want vac adavance at idle just part throttle. If you wanted it at idle you would not disconnect your vac advance when you time it.

Ok, I have the timing set on the Z and when I hook the line up to the proper ported output on the carb the timing increases. I know the vac adavance should not work while at idle. The distrbutor is a Proform HEI that is brand new as is the Holley 3310 750. Whats the deal?

Smoke his ass!

I tried to bleed the brakes the other day but looks like the master is bad. So, I went to pick in pull to grab another master. After I came home and inspected it I noticed that the front/rear are opposite from mine. i have a 70 and this was from a 71. Upon inspection, They cylinders look the same but the front has a larger fluid capacity. Can I just swap the canisters so that I have the larger one to the front brakes like the original?

z dreamer, My buddy down here started the original muffler tech and now just went out of business! I think Colby owns the one in sac? I will give him a call.

His name is Gary and the phone number is 1 800 451 7049 or 209 944 9968. Tell him that Ron with the v8 240z sent ya! This is the exact same on JTR uses that they charge 49 bucks for!

I am looking to get my exhaust done but dont just want to take it to anyone.

My buddy at the driveline shop said he will sell them to you guys for 30 bucks a pop! Or you can try your local shop. The correct part # is 2-2- 899. The yoke itself says 22459 but those are not the part numbers Neapcp goes by.

Just go back from pick n pull today and I got the right yoke. I came from an 76 2+2! The funny part was that it was a square yoke! What I do know is that all of the 75 models used the 2.0 pilot and had 10 mm holes instead of the needed 8mm.

I have an idea that I have been wanting to try. I think we need adaptor like the JTR drivline adaptors that bolt to the diff outputs and stub shafts. Then you could use 1310 1/2 u joints and make custom mini driveshafts with a slip shaft in the center. I think it would work killer!

I am just finishing my r200 swap on my 240. I used a 280z mustache bar and r200 and then used the offset lower transverse link from the 72 240.If you have a pick in pull in town, I paid 13 bucks.

I am going to keep the yoke , i just need the round yoke from the 280z!