z ya

Yeah, He was telling me about the little scoops that he will have out soon. I think he has them done but needs a digital camera to post the pics. Thanks for posting the pic!

I just ordered it so I dont have any pics. It costs 300 bucks plus 75 bucks shipping from AZ to CA. I think its like 18 pounds.

I ordered it from John Washington and I cant wait to get my hands on it! Good guy to deal with as well.

Thanks Dan , I got to see it last year remember?? I had the gold colored 240z with the rowdy sbc?? I parked right next to you and I had no hood on it.

Dan, are you running coilovers in the rear? What is the bs on your centerlines??

I changed from Permatex rvt to GM blk rvt. Also I used some very light sand paper on the block rails to make sure all oils and grit were removed. Cleaned everything with carb cleaner. Also I ended up using the cork ends on the back side of the block with a small 1/8" bead. The front I used pure RVT. So far so good!

It looks like I stopped the dreaded intake manifold leak! I drove it around the Hood for a while and no leaks. But man am I paranoid! Every second I think its gonna come back!!!!!

Congrats on picking the motors Mike and Pete! Man isnt that the best feeling...I cant wait till I can start a build up in the future and my next small block. Good luck with everything and keep us posted on how everything is coming together!

60 foots and drag times will be better with a good auto and stall . Just make sure your stall and cam are working in the same range. I just installed a 3000 stall in my 700r4 and am hoping for 1.7 to 1.6 60 foots. I also have 235/60/15 BFG drags.

My 70 240 came in at 2485 with the small block chevy and 700r4. The motor has aluminum heads/intake/pulleys so that helps. Since then I have added a cage so I am sure it went up a bit.

First thing I would do is unbolt the trans crossmember and use a pry bar to shift the tranny as far to the driver side as it will go. This will give you maximum working room on the pass side. I used some fittings I found at pep boys that are about 3" long and are flared at both ends. I think they were next to the tranny cooloers/towing area. Then I used high grade rubber hose(like what comes in tranny cooler kits) for about the first foot in length. This helped conform to all the curves . Then from there on I used 5/16" brake line(metal) from the header area and thoughout.

Thats the thing I have never ran a PCV valve before. All I have used are dual breathers. My question is should I use the PCV or dual breathers to get rid of max crank case pressure??? And if I use the PCV should I use a breather on the other side???

After fighting my leaking maifold over and over Quicker240 brought up a good point about High crankcase pressure possibly being the culprit . Whats is the best method for relieving this excessive pressure? Should I go down to the local Kragen and get a PCV valve? If I do should I use a breather on the other side? Or should I go with Moroso set up that sucks it out of the exhaust?? When I had the k/n style breathers awhile back I remember oil coming out of them and leaking on the valve covers. I figure that is a sure sign of High crank case pressure. Or can I just use some breathers with the nipples on the end and run them to my air cleaner. Thanks

I have been pondering the same thing for my next motor?? Either the Vortech or the Procharger carb blow threw set up.

I put the intake back together and am praying for a leak free set up. After reading quicker 240's response I am starting to think this is the major issue that is causing the leaks. I remember that when I was using the k/n style filter breathers before I would get some oil dripping out of the filters. And yes the valve covers had baffles. I think that by running a pcv it will help suck out some of the pressure as opposed to just breathers? What do you guys think????

Oh, also changed to k&n style breathers on both side for crankcase pressure relief.

Well, I just went and picked up another set of intake manifold gaskets and some GM blk rvt sealant. I will give it another go........

Thanks guys

Well, I put the intake manifold back on the other night. Freshly cleaned surface with carb cleaner. 1/4 " bead black rvt front and rear. Well, its doesnt leak were it used to now it leaks in the area right behind the distributor. Whats next? Pull it off again! Maybe I should try the cork ends or rubber ends?? If I use them should I put gasket maker on both sides ,one side or no side?? I also think I am going to try some factory GM gasket stuff. Man I am getting SOOO frustrated with this thing.

Well its all put back together with BLK rvt sealant. I am going to let it set up for 48 hours to make sure its fully cured. I am praying to the car gods that I dont have another leak...........

I just pulled my intake off because I had a small leak coming from the back side of it. Should I use the 1/4" blk RVT that I have been using? Or should I go back to the rubber or cork ends? I HATE leaks....

Anyone??? Grumpy????????? John C?????????

No I held off on the JB . I ended up getting some Permitex High Temp High pressure Thread sealant. Stuff is supposed to work.

I am running 235/60/15 BFG drag radial and am hoping to hook HARD! Thats the thing , I dont want to ease into it...I want to hammer it out of the hole! If thse tires dont hook then its time for some Hoosiers!