z ya

Just curious what others run in the small block hybrids. I run 20 initail and 36 total on my 350.

Anyone?????????

Yeah, I cant beleive those #'s on that Danger Mouse. I dynoed mine when I got it done about 6 months ago. I ended up putting down 275 rwhp and 280 rwtq. I was disappointed. The good thing was that the A/F was a horrible 10.0 across the board. The dyno dude told me I had alot more in it once the get the A/F in the 13 to 13.5 range at WOT. This was also with the 750 vac sec Holley 3310. Now I have the 650 DP and also have added a windage tray. I am hoping for 300rwhp once it gets sorted out . Also may install a carb spacer later as well.

I just bought one from Summit for around 25 bucks I think. I plan to install it in the near future. I will keep you posted how I do it.

can I bleed the master properly with it on the car? Do you have to plug the ports on the bottom where the lines hook up??

They recommend going from Tranny to radiator to cooler from what I understand. They say to do this so that you bring the tranny up to proper op temp. I figure with the rad cooler/tranny cooler combo I should be ok as far as heat goes. the big Tarus helps as well.

I ended up running it through both the radiator and the cooler. Both TCI and Bowtie says to it. So I figure they know better than I....

I am runnign a 76 Caddy 500 in my Jeep. I went with the Performer Intake,260 comp cam and a Carb Shop Q jet. The motor is pretty sweet. Lots of bottom end and mid range.

I have the camaro radiator and a 3/4" x 13x10 Summit tranny cooler. The cooler is mounted in front on the radiator and I am using the Tarus fan. I just switched to a 3000 stall and was wondering if I should go through the rediator this time?? My motor runs between 185 and 195. It seems that my tranny might run cooler if I just use the cooler cause it wont be at 185 or 195 all the time. Also seems like my motor may get a break as well. Plenty of air gets pulled through the cooler since its mounted on the front of the rediator. What do you guys think?? I am running just a cooler on my jeep with a TH400 with a dedicated on it and it has been fine for 3 years???

Don Manzo runs that same set up in his 383 240z. Car runs 11.58 at 121!

I am running unsectioned coilovers in the rear. I only have the car lowered about 3/4" of and inch. Works great!

Anyone running one these on there Z?? I am considering going this route on the next motor. If it wil fit... Looks like it sticks way out on the side and my interfere with the strut tower???

I think you will be fine. I am running a similar set up motor as yours. I am running from the stock 5/16 outlet to 3/8's all the way to the carb. Also running a Summit electric fuel pump that is 110 gph . It is a 16 psi unit that is regulated to 6 psi. I have no lean condtions up to 6500 rpm.

Thanks guys for the tips!

Anyone running one of there stroker shortblocks?? They have been around for a numbers of years so they have to be decent??

I have a line on a virgin 400/4 bolt sbc. I am thinking about doing a budget built stroker. Here is kinda what I want to do..... 400 bored 30 over 10.5 comp ratio AFR 195's(already have) 1.52 comp rollers(already have) 274 or 284 extreme energy cam Air Gap intake(already have) 750 Holley(already have) Proform Hei(already have) 1 5/8 Block Huggers/2.5 Daul/x pipe(already have) I was thinking about using the stock 5.56 rods and putting in some ARP bolts. I wanted to keep this motor at a max of 6000 rpm. Later I also plan on going to the 1 3/4 long tubes as well. What do you guys think of this combo???

For 7's , I would go with 215/45/17's. This would give you a straight sidewall not the buldge look. For 8's 235 or 245's look best.

Well remember when I was asking if I had a blown head gasket? Well I pulled the oil pan off today and the bottom of it was filled full of SLUDGE. It looked liked grease or something. Looks like the oil and water were just mixing and turning in slime. So now I cant decide if I should just change the head gaskets or rebuild the motor? Needless to say I really dont have the cash for this and am not to thrilled.........

So we are good to go than huh Don???????

You can also run a 16x7 with 4" bs. Brings the wheel real close to the edge and depending on how wide of tires you may have to roll the fender lips.

Man , Nicole at centerline is cool. When I ordered my Fluted Hammers I really wanted just the "Hammer" without the flutes. So I e mailed Nicole this morning to see if I could get them without the flutes. She sent an e mail back and changed them to the the non fluted "Hammer". That is excellent customer service! If I ever need wheels again I will ask to speak directly to her.

Thanks guys, I think Mike hit the nail on the head. For the last couple of months the car has been sitting and I have just been starting it every 3 to 4 days. Sometimes to operating temp sometimes and sometimes not. Also it looks like it had a small intake manifold leak as well. Like I said the oil in the pan looked fine. I am going to retorque the heads and replace the intake gaskets. I will see if that solves it.

Thanks for the info. I have a 650 DP and a 750 vac sec(3310) for my 350. I just got the 650dp and can wait to see how it feels. Throttle response seems MUCH better.

Man, I hope Nicole does not kill me! I ended up going with 17x7's in front and 17x8's in rear. I like the rear wheels wider and I only have coilovers in the rear. I went with 4" bs in front and 5" in the rear. This way it saves me 200 bones on going with the coilovers cause I already have lowering springs in the front. I plan on using 215/45/17's in the front and 245/45/17's in the back. Steering should also be a bit easier with the 215's in the front.

Thurem, Yeah I called right at 7:30 am. I had to get them for that deal. Shoot I can sell them a year from now for what I paid for them new!!!