z ya

What is the best way to tune you primarys and secondarys when you go to the dyno. I know how I planned on doing it but want to get some other opinions before I go back. MY thoughts were this: For primarys: car will be at part thottle on dyno. jet primarys until I get about 14 to 14.5 a/f ratio. For Secondarys: shoot for 13 to 13.5 across the board at WOT.

I figured out for sure where the leak is coming from..... its the intake manifold. I had a buddy rev it up while I had my head back there checking things out. Oh well , at least I know where its coming from I guess. I will pull it tonight!

Are you flashing the converter from idle or brake stalling ?? If brake stalling how much will it stall up before the wheels spin??

So are your 11.7's coming with the 3.54's or 3.90's. I have the 3.54's and am wondering if I should go the 3.7 or 3.90 route? I figured with the 3.06 first gear in the 700r4 and the 3000 stall it would pull real good from a dead dig.

I know why your r200 sits about 3/4" to far foward. Because I did the same thing! Flip you front diff mount the other direction and all will be cured! It will push the diff back the 3/4" and give the the proper clearence to bolt everything back up!

I replaced my R180 awhile ago with a R200 that I picked up from pick n pull. The original shafts bolted right up to the R200 with no issues. I keep hearing that they are different and do not bolt up. Mine did??? Anyone have some more insight on this issue?????????

Most auto's lose about 20 to 25% .

zfan, looks like if you get you 60 foot time down low low 12's or high 11's are in the future! Did you go and re dyno ??

The threads are all clean and I am using the proper fitting . I is very difficult to detemine if it is coming from the fitting or the maniflod because of the limited space. Ill get it but it is making me frustrated!!!!

Well, I pulled the pipe type fitting and replaced it with the steel fitting that comes with the auto meter mech pressure guage. I tried this fitting with both rvt red and teflon tape. Still leaks! I have never had problems like this???? Iam starting to think maybe it is coming from the back of the intake manifold instead of the fitting. I am going to give it one my try and use the JB weld on the fitting. If it leaks then I guess it has to be the intake. Man this sucks! I wanna drive my car!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cool, I am running a 3000 Hughes in the 700r4. Car feels like a beast now with that and the 650DP carb. What kind of 60 ft times are you pullin????

How did the dyno session go???

Screw the dyno #'s, your car runs 11.7's!! What tranny are you running? If auto what stall converter? What size slicks? My car made 275rwhp when it was way rich and am hoping for around 290 to the wheels now that it is tuned. My goal was 11.9's . Anyway, nice #'s and lets see some pics of the z!

I cant wait to smoke one of those little guys!!

zfan, 7 psi is about max for the street. I currently run 6 psi in 650dp. I am running a 16 psi electric pump regulated to 6 psi. Are you dynoing again tomarrow???? I would shot for around 6 to 6.5 if it were mine.

Brad, have you tried your current 225/45/17 DR's at the track yet??? If not I would try them first before you go out and spend a bunch of money. They might just hook with the right amount of clutch slip!

Brad, I am running 10" coilovers . There are a bunch of v8 guys running the 235's drags and have no traction issues. Some are even spraying out of the hole with 60 foots times as low as 1.5 sec. I highly recommend them!

If I were you I would run the Hoosier quick time pro's in the 26x9.5x15 size. This would be about the same size as my 235/60/15 BFG drag radials. These tires fit perfect with 15x7.5 wheels with 5" bs. I have GC coil overs and the wheel lips are not rolled. You also might wanna try and run the 235/60/15 BFG drags that I have. I think they would hook up just fine with your RB motor. THis way the car would still handle good wth your 17" radial front tires.

JB weld??? What happens if I need to get it back out?????????

It is coming from the back oil hole in the block. I did what JTR recomends and copied the set up they use. It is a pipe fitting with a couple of T's that gos to the fuel pump if oil pressure gets to low. Well it looks like from what I can tell that it leaks were the block meets the pipe fitting. I am using thread sealant and alll the parts are clean. I did my best to clean the threads in the block with the end of on a small screw driver. I have tried to stop this leak 3 times now with no luck! I have even pulled the maniflod ti see if maybe it was coming from it! I have also changed the fitting thinking maybe it was cracked and tried RVT sealant on another time! Are you guys using this set up?? Help please !!!!!!!!!

Keep us posted!!

5" bs with coilovers on 15x8's is perfect.

zfan, Thats about what I went to dyno mine. I made 275rwhp and 280rwtq. I as well was pig rich with a 10.0 a/f ratio across the board! When I went I was at 33 total timing so that didnt help. Like grumpy said get the the a/f ratio around 13 to 13.5 and total timing in the 36 to 38 range and things will pick up. I plan to go back soon and since the changes I have made. I now have a 650dp and the thing runs MUCH better than the 3310 Holley vac sec. Good luck with the z, you will get it right just be patient! By the way what has been the best pass you have made with these current numbers at the strip????

zfan, Keep me posted on your results. We have a similar set up...

Yep, Good old 91 octane! No pinging though...thank god for light cars!! Are you going to dyno tomarrow??