HaaJeHaa

Group Harrington sells some really nice bumpers if you didn't know. Stainless I think. They can also produce without holes and plastic, just let em know. http://www.groupharrington.com/en/part/36/datsun-240z-and-260z-bumpers.html

With a little luck it's easy to remove. First, use a lot penetrating oil and let it set for a day, WD-40, CNC's 5-56 etc. Then undo both nuts on the spindle pin and after that undo the nut on the cotter pin. Place the nut on the cotter pin so it covers the threads. Use a lead hammer to drive it out, hopefully no damage. Place the nut on the spindle pin without a washer so it covers the threads and use the lead hammer again to drive it half an inch or so. Then undo the nut and get a steel rod. Use the steel rod to drive the spindle pin out with use of a hammer. If your spindle pin thread get some damage, use a thread die to refresh it. For me, it was an easy job that took 10 min per side. It wasent stuck with rust in my case as a previous owner had greased it up with copperpaste. Therefore, grease it with aluminium paste or copper paste when you reassemble.

No need anymore! Thanks jellobob!

PM'd

Great work! Where in sweden do you live?

Hello, I need a pair of '75-'78 S30 280z companion flanges, these mate to the stub axles and have a 27 spline count. Pics if you don't know what they look like: Can anyone help me out? Hans

I'm looking for a speedo for my 280z that show the speed in km/h. I'm from Norway, so that's why I need it! Can anyone help me out? Hans

The engine is for a semi truck The RR Merlin V12 27 litre engine is used in cars, so why not try

Take a good look at it, if it's close to rust free it's a good deal! Also check it for damages, such as chrashes, bad repairs etc, it's 40 years old and you never know what the previous owners have done to it... It's no fun to have a car that leaves 4 wheel marks out of a wet pit when going straight! These cars are easy to work on and the spares are easy to find. Dash etc are easy to get hold on through a part out car here on the forum (and other places as well). Their only major downside is the rust problem, check everything and everywhere so you now what you're buying...

Nice build!

1150 kilograms = 2 535.31602 pounds

+1!

My 77 280z 2 seater with AC at 100% stock with full gas tank, spare tire and all fluids weighed 2658 lbs.

You could use the weld in camber plates that both Techno Toy and AZcar are selling. If you don't want to weld, techno toy can also provide a bolt in solution (you have to drill new holes in the strut top, as they are for a different car). TT's weld in option below and the bolt in option on top.

Looks rust free! Your son going to be a proud driver when he gets his license!

Nice motor build! Where did you buy the block and head?

Keep updating, it's fun to follow a build thread! I'm also 21 and well into my 280z build;)

Looks great! Keep up the good work!

mmmmmmmmmmm so clean!

Looks like it's going to be a great outcome of this project. Keep up the good work! What size and offset is the wheels?

How come no one sells aftermarket dashes (just the foam/plastic wrap)? I really don't like the dash cap idea, hiding cracks/rust/errors isn't my way of doing things...

My experience: It didn't work for me. My dash was so dry and cracked that I coulden't even touch it before it was cracking even more. I gave SEM bumper repair a try, two sets for my 8 cracks, but my dash just startet cracking around the area fixed with SEM. My solution: Fiberglassed the underside and the top of the dash. Sanded that down, filled bumps with fiberglss bondo and sanded that. Then I went for the texture coating and trim black. Unfortunately when I mounted the dash "shell" to the bracket it got some tension and it cracked once more (close to impossible to spot). It looks ok now, but I will re-do it some time. Tip: After fiberglassing the underside, mount it to the bracket before fiberglassing the top, that will prevent any tension.

Hello! Need some help from people with Arizona Z car coilover experience. The situation: It's time for cutting and welding the strut tubes, so I can mount the AZ car coilovers to my car. I have a complete set of strut tubes extra (provided by "aplyedmind" on the forum, thanks!) and the car is off to paint, so I can't measure the height on the car myself, so I was hoping some of you could help me out on this one! Where should I cut of the strut tubes and weld the sleeves on so I nearly can slam my 280z to the ground? I wan't it really low when the coilover is bottomed, but at "just low" when heighten maximum. Some people say that the measurements AZ car got on their website makes the car sit to tall... I'm going to run 17x9 and 17x9,5 Rota's with 215/35 and 225/35 without flares, and I want my 280z to sit (similar height) like this beautiful Benz: More pics: http://www.stancenation.com/2010/09/09/chi-town-beast/ What do you think? I know the car won't handle well, but it's going to be a show car with that setup. I have another setup for the road...

Did this job myself this weekend. Found some surface rust on the floor after getting the asphalt away. My solution: Got mental with the twisted wire brush on my grinder, som rust converter on where I coulden't get to and then some zink primer. After that I brushed on some Owatrol (linen oil) under the seat brackets to stop the rust where you can't reach(that stuff is amazing, creeps everywhere and stops and prevents rust). I'll be finishing the job thursday with a topcoat of POR15.