HaaJeHaa

Sorry for the phonepics;)

Yeps, all around. Got camberplates to adjust a little negative for the clearance. Got the same specs front and rear but 3,5" lip in front for brake clearance (thicker center) and 4" rear.

I got 16x9.5 -10 w/ 225/45 under stock (rolled) fenders;)

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=225&aspect=55&diameter=15&wheelwidth=8&offset=-14&width2=225&aspect2=45&diameter2=16&wheelwidth2=9.5&offset2=-10&Submit=Submit With a 225/55 you'll have about the same clearance with the tire as me and I got plenty of room.

Just a little roll and they'll fit fine. If you still have issues get a set of camber plates to get some negative camber for clearance;) I'm running 16x9,5 et -10 with 225/45-16 under stock rolled fenders;) Sits flush.

Loving those widened steelies Atomman!

Jimmy, fellow Norwegian;) If I were you I would try to find a set of classic japanese 2 or 3 piece wheels and buy new lips to get the width and offset you want. Comic's sizes looks great, so use that as a reference. Look up yahoo.jp auctions, ebay etc to find a set of SSR MKII/ MKIII/ formula mesh, HRE 505, Work Pulse, etc... Just my 0.02. When you're tired of them you could sell them to me! List with classic wheels (some japanese): http://www.ratdat.com/?page_id=101 If you don't wan't to spend hours looking, Work Equip is a great classic looking wheel you can get in low offsets. Rotiform, among others, will also make great looking 15" wheels in a classic design.

I got the complete part, rubber attached to the stainless trim. All click fittings mounted also. Easy click on mounting. I do not have the catalogue here, but I can remember I had a hard time finding it because of poor illustration and name.

I bought it from blackdragon. Great fit!

This is going to be great!

Thumbs up!

It all depends on offset, tirewidth (stretch), coilovers, camberplates etc. Just measure yourself and you will find what fits your car with your specifications/modifications. Get coilovers first and buy wheels that fit second. One milimeter is one milimeter enough to make sure it doesnt hit anything when turning/bumps etc. This forum isnt about wheel fitment, go to stanceworks for wheel/stance questions where its all about the milimeters. Use willtheyfit.com to check your measurements. My current setup is the maximum you can get under your stock fenders with not messing about on the outside (read pulling). 16x9,5 et-10 f/r with 225/45 tires. Requires fender roll, camber plates, adjustable LCA's, coilovers.

Search. 240zip: I hope thats sarcasm. It's the internet so its hard to get:P

Go buy a good sanding block made for the purpose. Will make the job easier and better!

daryl_db: Thats a trick I should've known when I did my bodywork. Would've shorten the time used a lot!

That line is most certainly dimmed because of earlier bodywork because of a respray. As john suggest, take it down to metal and see how the line is behind everything. If its not clear enough behind all old paint, primer and bondo, then use lead or bondo, and sand it down with a long and wide block starting from the line and away from it on both sides of the line. You wont need a lot of filler material, halv a mm will sharpen the line a lot. This is the tecnique I used since my car didnt have this line visible at all... 2mm of bondo evenly on a straight body.... Why would someone do that??

How about setting a maximum picture size (lets say 600x400) to optimize the forum (user experience, maybe also server capacity)? When reading threads you occationally come across people posting large pictures (3000x2500 etc). When you click the tiny preview picture, it takes forever to load and when its finished loading its impossible to even see a Z. This can be solved by making the forum scale the picture to proper size or by having a upload limit (like several other forums do). People should learn how to shrink pictures for use on the web, and this forces them to do so. Just my 2 cents...

Nope, it wont fit. It will hit the front and rear struts/spring assembly. If you change to coilovers you can get away with a -10 offset for a wheel thats 10" wide. Just measure and you will see.

What year is the Maxima brackets from? As far as I know the design differs through the years.

Keep up the good work! Welding skills ftw!

17x9 et-13. That would however require a fender roll, stretched tires, coilovers and camberplates.

Nice! Can't go wrong with rs;)

People got their hobbies, nothing wrong with that;)

I understand your point of view, but I still think direct copy wheels is a no go on any car. Replicas that uses design elements of an original design is in my opinion ok, like the Rota RBR, but I would never buy wheels of a manufacturer that laser scan the original wheels, orders sand moulds and pours aluminium into them to sell them for a profit. Thats just cynical with no respect for the industrial designer who made the wheels in the first place. yhlz: I live in Norway, maybe the most expensive country in the world, so I have to pay atleast $300-$400 to get a pair of Levis 504 jeans and I'm unlikely to find a real leather jacket for $1000...

Support those who make quality forged wheels by not buying cheap cast knock offs. Call Dan at Complete Custom Wheel and order a set of Classics if you want that design (you can also choose the offset and size you want). If you cant afford it, go get som second hand quality wheels and refurb them. That will look a lot better and you can be proud of your wheel setup for having nice classic wheels. A nice Z deserves that. Having Varrstoen replicas is like having shoes or t-shirts that says Nuke or Adidadis. You get the look but everyone interested can spot the fakes.