Mike Mileski

Pretty cool. Looks like they will also act as kind of a driveshaft safety hoop. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

There used to be a guy on this forum named Thure who lived in Tucson. He relocated to Puerto Penasco a few years ago and opened a motorcycle shop called Bikes on the Beach. He's into Zs so you ought to try looking him up, assuming that he still has a shop there. Shouldn't be too hard to find out. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I read in the newespaper a few days ago that, effective this coming weekend in Denver, and continuing for an unspecified time, Top Fuel and Funny Cars will only race to the 1000 foot mark. All other classes will still race the full 1320. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Would anyone know the exact dimension between the two cradles that hold the rear control arm in place? Basically, from center of the front saddle to the center of the rear one? I know its somewhere around 18.5" but I'd sure like to know what the exact figure is. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

What is their part number for rack universal joint and what exactly did you do up on the column end? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

In Texas. Not a bad price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Nissan-300ZX-Turbo-Z32-Rear-LSD-Conversion-w-Axles_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33731QQihZ004QQitemZ140238607263QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I believe G Force sells a T-5 with their killer gears in it for around $2K. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I purchased a set of Mike Kelly's tubular arms a few years ago. After I heard about the issues concerning the outer portion of that arm, I made a couple of mods; I added a cross brace at the outer end and installed two rod ends (see attached picture). I was planning on making a couple of spacers, of equal length, to mate it to the lower portion of the control arm. Is this configuration going to put something in bind based upon what I'm reading here? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I received the backing plates from Techno Toy Tuning about three weeks ago. All along, I had planned on making up some custom brake caliper brackets for them so I could utilize the JSK hats and Wilwood calipers that I already had. I felt they would be superior to the stock Z32 pieces plus, I had already purchased them. First off, let me state up front that the Techno Toy parts are super quality items. Super beefy with high quality looks. The first thing I realized was that the Wilwood caliper wouldn't fit without modifying the Techno Toy piece. I winced a bit as I trimmed off one of the existing caliper mounting ears on each piece so the Wilwood caliper could slide over the rotor and fit properly in place (see photo 001). After positioning the Wilwood caliper where it needed to be, I did a whole bunch of measuring and then made a drawing of what I needed. I took the drawing to a machinist buddy of mine and he manufactured me a set of caliper brackets (see photo 002). After getting the proper fastening hardware, I assembled everything and it all went together without a hitch and lined up perfectly (see photo 003). Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

The only mod I've made to the steering rack is to the input shaft as explained. I don't know what you're referring to as a "t-bar" but the other parts pictured in the background are suspension pieces. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

It turns out that my Subaru rack has the input shaft with 20 splines. Since nobody makes a u-joint with that configuration, I did some investigating. It turns out, the shaft diameter just below the splines is about .670, or 17mm. All of the aftermarket u-joint manufacturers (Borgeson, Flaming River, Woodward) make a 17mm double D joint. I disassembled my rack, cut the splined end off the input shaft and had it two flats machined on it to match the 17mm double D joint. I bought a 17mm DD X 3/4" round joint and it fits like a glove. See pics. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I think they only made the one size, 14 X 7, and they came on Supras and some Celica GTs. I have a set on my '71. The center holes on the wheels do need to be opened up to fit over the S30 front hubs, but the rears, if your rear setup is stock, don't require it since the stock rear hub/drum area is flat. I went ahead and enlarged the hole on all four rims to make tire rotating easier. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Thanks Warren. I got it now. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

So, what am I doing wrong? First I click on "Members List" and then click on "Search Members". Then I type in "Tucson" and click the "GO" box. I then receive a message box that says "Sorry, no matches". I feel like an idiot. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

The "Search Members" function on the "Member List" only searches on the User Name. I can't even find myself with searches of "Tucson" or "AZ". Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Is there any way to do a location sort on the Members List to see who else also resides in my city (Tucson, AZ)? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

KAZU, you wrote: "By the way, I ended up using EPS system from Suzuki mini car because there is no room for P/S pump." Exactly what year and model Suzuki did you get your pump from? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Does anyone know if you can put a standard v-belt pulley on the GM type II power steering pump? If I do this swap, I have a ZZ4 motor with standard pulleys that I'll have to adapt the pump to, thus requiring a standard v-belt. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I made a tool and "tweaked" the Ford tie rod in a 20 ton press to give it some angle similar to the stock Datsun ball joint. This puts the at rest point of the tie rod in a centered position, reducing the possibility of binding. See picture. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I saw somewhere in this thread that the power steering pump used was from a 2002 Chevy but I never saw what exact model it was from. Did I just miss it or was it not mentioned? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I made the arms dimensionally identical to the tubular arms that Arizona Z Car used to sell, and I also used the exact same tie rod. I never heard of any issues with their products and they sold a bunch of them over the years. However, a friend of mine has a similar pair that I made and he races his 240Z. His car is extremely low and he runs a lot of negative camber. He had concerns similar to yours so he put the tie rod in a 12 ton press and slightly bent it just past the end of the theads to a several degree angle, approximately the same as shown in your picture. He never tried it first to see if it would work as is but is more comfortable with it slightly angled. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here is my latest iteration of a front arm that does not require the TC rod to be disconnected in order to adjust it. The custom piece is a three inch length of 1.125" OD tubing with a .220" wall thickness. This allows it to be threaded for the metric threads of the tie rod on one end (1.625" deep) and the 3/4-16 LH threads for the double adjuster on the other end (1.375" deep). The threaded end of the tie rod needs to be shortened 1/2" but then it can be threaded all the way in and locked with the jam nut. It doesn't require any future adjustments. All of the length adjustments can now be accomplished by using the double adjuster. I plan to install this on my car, adjust it to my specs and then possibly make a slightly longer version, if necessary, to ensure that all of the threaded portions are almost completely threaded in for utmost strength. Let me know your thoughts. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

http://www.gunbroker.com/ Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Anything new to report on this? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

My 240 was purchased new in Missouri in the summer of 1971 and brought to Tucson, AZ two months later, where it's spent it's entire life. Zero rust. I hardly ever see early Zs advertised here in Tucson, but Phoenix has a much larger population and I'm sure a good number are rust-free natives. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ