deja

I found these in my stash of Z parts and thought they were my old 280Z front hubs, but they are square and 280Z hubs are round. I looked at MM's site for hub identfication but these don't match 240Z, 280Z or 280ZX. Can someone tell me what they are?

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6 I have two of his brand new 36mm adapters I will sell for $75 including shipping if you're interested.

No. I have 1.5" adapters which are 40MM (40mm is actually 1.574798").

Hmmm, 35mm is 1.37", 40mm is 1.57". I don't think you'll have the correct offset if you use 35mm adapters. I'm running 17x7 with 40 offset using MM 1.5"adapters. I have Tokicos 2" lowering springs and struts and I am running Falken Ziex ZE-512 215/50/17s all the way around with no wheel clearance issues. The tires are as far out as I would want them. I don't think the 35mm adapters are going to give you the look you want plus the geometry is wrong for the 40 offset wheels. You can check the specs here http://www.bigcustomwheels.com/rt_specs.jsp

I picked up the aluminum and all the fittings on EBAY. I polished them myself with Mothers, but they were pretty good when I got them. Yes AC condensor and tranny cooler all in front of the radiator and I have had no overheating issues. I'm running the JTR rad and a Taraus fan controled by the LT1 computer (you need to do some rewiring for the 2 fan controls to run the 2 speed taraus fan).

Nice find for sure. That is in great shape for something thats been sitting for a few years. Good luck on the LT1 install.

If you're talking about the sending unit on the driver's side rear of the block its the oil pressure sender. I had to cut out the entire stock tranny mounts and beat on the passenger side a bit to get my 4L60E auto in the tunnel, others can comment on the T56. I picked up some mandrel bent 3.5" aluminum tubing and several silicone rubber connectos to make my own air intake. I don't think anyone makes one that will just fit without modification.

Not sure what he means by th opti being a plus...over what? Here's a link to LT1 history. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_LT_engine The 93-95 F-bodies were rated at 275 horsepower, not 300. The 92-93 LT1s used speed density fuel management, batch-fire fuel injection and a dedicated engine control module (ECM), not the ideal setup. Among other things I think that means you can't flash the computer but need a chip programmed and swapped. I am running a bone stock 94 LT1 with close to 130,000 miles (only modes are Sanderson headers and cold air inlet and some small tweaking of the PCM) and a 4L60E auto and when I ran it at DNI it had an open 3.54 stock rear. The car weigh 2905 with a full tank and no driver. Not sure what you consider respectable but I turned consistent 12.9s at around 103 by simply stomping on it when the light went green. I've switched to a LSD and 3.7 gears but haven't had the chance to run it yet. I get 18.5 mpg in town and 25 mpg on the highway running at 80 mph.

94 LT1s are OBD1, after that they are OBD2. I don't know about the 93 but the 94 can be programed in the car with the right cable, software is the same.

Getting the air out of these engines is tough enough without trying to "make" it work on an GEN 1 block. Watching the engine temp climb while you vent the steam off is not for the faint of heart!

That's what I thought, but then thought maybe rdsk8ter knew something I didn't. But once I thought about the opti running off the cam I was pretty sure it wouldn't work even if he could fugure out the cooling.

Are you sure you can run LT1 heads on an older block? I know the LT1 engines use reverse flow for coolant and have coolant steam vent lines that must be used or coolant will not vent off the air trapped in the heads. I don't know if any of this is an issue or not using an older block. I assume you have done the research on all that. I also don' think you could use an opti on the older block anyway since it runs off the front of the cam. But I am no expert on the differences between the older blocks and the LT1 block.

I don't fully understand what you have. Are you running a standard distributor now? If so I don't know what you could use.

Yep, there are a couple, one is http://www.delteq.com/ I'll try to find the other one. I haven't used either.

No clue, never rebuilt a Datsun engine. BUt like othrs said you might be better off getting a whole engine. Check craigslist http://www.craigslist.org/about/sites there is always Datsun stuff there.

LOL, that depends on how good you are na d how much money you have. But it the cam is that rusted its a good bet the cylinders and crank won't look any better. Odds are you're looking at a complete engine rebuild. Yes you can pul the head with common tools but you should know what you're doing, just don't start unbolting things. At least pick up a shop manual fot that year Datsun. Maybe there is someone local on this board that can give you a hand. I don't think that's what you parents want to hear. IMHO they should be happy you're willling to take on something like this and learn something about cars. Obviously your Dad is not a gearhead.

Yikes! Unless that pic just doesn't show it there apears to be NO oil in the head at all resilting in a rusted cam. Is there any oil in the engine? Will it turn over? Pull the plugs and try tuning it by hand. When was the last time the engine ran? Looks like you have some work to do to get that running at all. Good luck, I don't think its going to be a simple fix.

I don't know about the 260Z but the 280Z has 2 blinkers under the dash. One is for the hazards and one for the turn signals. The voltage to run the turn signals or hazards goes through these before it gets to the switch. You should be able to swap those and see if it fixes your problem. You can get a new one at any auto parts store.

Good job, certainly eaiser then making the complete new board.

That's true. That chapter has always been on the web site.

I agree. A breadboarded version for my Corvette tail lights is in the plan, if I can fugure out how to get the actual light apart, damn things are glued or heat stacked together. I can cut it apart but I have never had good luck gleuing placitc back together and the back portion is how these things are mounted.

Yes it does, that's why I got the new flasher, just offering an option.

The only comlication as far as engine and tranny install were clearance for the steering shaft on the passenger side (I used JTR supplied Sanderson headers). That was fixed by grinding off a little of the JRT motor mount spacer and some rubber off the Chevey motor mount. The tranny tunnel on my 280Z took some work. I had to remove the complete stock tranny mount on the driver's side and beat back the tunnel some on the passenger side to clear the cooler lines, I am runing a 4L60E automatic. A T56 6 speed may be different. Other than that it was pretty straight forward. Get the manual, every aspect of the install is covered.