deja

I have already sent him a message. I came close to paying the $400, if the shipping wasn't so high I would have. One of my co-workers is going to Detroit this summer and said he would pick them up for me. Of course his wife may have other ideas when she realizes how big two seats are.

YOU *&^%$#. LOL, just kidding. Post some picts so I can feel real bad!!! I am glad it was a HybridZ ,member that got them.

Wow that's a great price. You and I both got snipped on the black ones. I think I snipped you and then within the last 5 seonds I lost too. Oh, well the Corvette seat search continues.

I haven't mounted it yet. Thanks for the heads up on the holes. I probably won't get to it until the weekend.

Thats quite a difference, stock belt is 64 3/8". I am running a Bower AC bracket so I'll need to adjust the 94" belt I'm using to compensate the the smaller PS delete pully.

I got mine today. What length belt did you end up using? The AC delete and this pulley are much smaller than the pulleys they replace so the stock Z28/TransAm belt isn't going to work.

COOL! One of my buddies was just asking if anyone from our borad knew a place to get these. thanks

MSA gets their covers from http://altecproducts.com/index.htm call them 1-800-797-9035, they should be able to fix you up.

Name (first and last): Dale Boyd Handle: Deja City/State: Sugar Hill Georgia Year/Make/Model: 1977 Datsun 280Z 20 word or less description: '94 Z28 LT1/4L60E Lowered suspension, custom dash using TransAm gauges, Corvette taillights.

First I'll say Mike has certainly more experience at this than I do so I won't disagree with him. I had my car plumbed with his T in the radiator hose when I first finished the plumbing. There was a thread here about a year ago about this very thing. At that time I looked over my GM shop manual and decided to plumb it more like the Z28 does. Does it make any difference? I doubt it. But the way I have it works for me so I'm leaving it like that. I totally agree with both Mike and Wheelman about the thermostat and the fan. You have a 2 speed and DO NOT run both windings at the same time, it wont help, will draw a ton of current and most likely will burn up the fan and or relays eventually. I am not running a Datsun heater so I can't say which hose is which at the firewall. I am not running the restrictor with my Vintage Air heater. If your heater has one don't add a second one. But you have the hose coming out of the engine correct according to my GM shop manual. I am also running the complete Z28 wiring harness including the under hood relays where the fan relays are located. I'm still using them to power the Taurus fan but I had to add 2 more relays to prevent running both speeds at the same time. 1st relay powers the low speed winding through its NC contacts. When the high speed is needed the 1st relay and 2nd relay coils are triggered by the high speed Z28 relay which disconnects the low speed winding and sends 12v to the high speed winding through the 2nd relay's NO contact. BTW I have not had the high speed fan kick in since I got all the air out of the system. So you should be able to get away just running the low speed. But if the high speed winding burned up I wouldn't put much faith in the fan lasting too long.

You really need to run the car for a long time to burp the cooling, like 20 minutes or more. Fisrt time I drove mine it overheated big time. Temp gauge was off the chart and the high speed fan was sceaming. Like I said it took me two times using shobox's method to get it burped. But I think the second time was because I had the overflow plumbed backwards, DOH! I'm running a 160 thermo too. One thing you want to do in your PCM is lower the fan temps to 179 and 197. This is usually where the fan temps get programmed to when you add a 160 thermostat. Do you have the knock sensor wired in?

That's pretty much the way I have mine plumbed. Only difference is I have a "T" fitting from the Camaro in series with the upper heater hose that the head steam pipe is connected to. For filling and bleeding follow the instructions on http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush Trust me this works, It took me two times to get all the air out. Be careful not to allow vented water to get to your optispark. Also be sure to plumb your overflow in correctly or the engine will suck air back into the radiator, don't ask how I know that, LOL. Mine sits at 180 and will run up to 197 when it sits at idle for a while, low speed fan kicks in and it drops back to 180.

Thanks I figured something like that happened. I'll give them a call. My gutted pump seems to be working fine but this would be better.

Oh sure now someone finds this, LOL. I searched forever on this site and couldn't find it as a part you could but. Its listed as part of a $595 kit but didn't see BK-MB31K listed by itself. Do you have a link to the part? Dale

If memory serves me these panels only go on in one order. And I think that one is first which means you may have to remove them all. You might get lucky and be able to tuck it under the forward panel. But you still need to unblot the hatch strut to get in it without breaking it. Oh yeah, removing the strut is a bitch too, but at lease that one is easier than the passenger side. Support the hatch before you remove the strut, one strut will not hold it up, don't ask how I know that, LOL.

I am running 1.5" MM adapters with 7x17 40 offset wheels 215x50 tires on my car. I run it on the street with only one drag race event and no autocross. I don't think there is an issue running with adapters if they are maintained properly. Anyone think running 8" - 9" sticky high tech tires on '70 vintage cars that were never designed for them is more of an issue with stress?

Ah man. thats horrible. Wonder if someone was attempting top steal your wheels. Happened to a friend of mine with his brand new '68 Z28. He only had 1000 miles on it and the car was totaled, he hit the pole head on. Glad to hear you'r alright and hope you're back on the road soon.

Did you pull the fuse holder out of the mount when you cleaned it and checked the back side too? If the contacts are corroded there's a good chance there will be some on the back where the wires hook up. When I pulled the whole harness out of my car I noticed many connector were corroded too. Glad I had decided to swap the whole chassis harness. My car blew fuses all the time in the first year I owned it.

These picts are huge so click on the links. It is tight in there to get to the bolt, I think its 10mm but won't sware to that. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/Clutch%20brake%20pedal%20l24%20l26%20l28.gif http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/77fsm/clutch%20pedal.gif

I feel your pain, that's why I ripped every wire out of my 280Z and replaced the whole wiring with the Camaro harness when I did my LT1 swap. Not the easiest thing to do if you don't understand wiring but at least you'll know what you have when you're done. Datsun wiring is a nightmare, Datsun engineers didn't believe in color codes and change wiring color at connectors constantly making it very hard to track circuits. Take your time and trace every circuit until you find the short, you've got one somewhere. I'd start with disconnecting everything that will run without the key being on. If you're draining the battery overnight its got to be something in those circuits drawing too much current. Put your multimeter in current mode and connect it in series with the + side of your battery and see how much current the car is drawing with the key turned off, it should be very low or nothing at all. BTW NEVER EVER change a fuse to a larger one thinking that's going to fix anything. Its blowing for a reason, allowing the circuit to draw more current will eventually end in fire. Fuse just don't go bad, at least very rarely. Check for corrosion in your fuse block. If you have some get some contact cleaner (Radio Shack), disconnect the battery, pull all the fuses, spray in the contact cleaner, let it sit for a while and try to brush it clean with a small brass brush. Let it dry well and put everything back.

I think this diff had one of each. I just thought the one with the flare was totally messed up. Looks like I am good to go with the new Nationals.

Whoa. I'm glad you posted this. The rubber on mine came out alone, I don't see that metal piece. On new ones I bought from O'Riely's don't have any metel in them. BTW the National part number on my seal is 223542. The diff is from a 300zxT clutch type LSD, don't know what year.

http://www.fbody.com/ and http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/ both have classfied sections. I bought my 94 Z28 LT1 as a drivable wreck on EBay for $1500. It was only 120 miles away so we drove down and taped the body panels back together with duct tape and drove it home. Also check http://www.craigslist.org/about/sites.html

Congrats, Scottie. I just turned mine in too, only 93 more days.

I will, just as soon as that guy from the Ivory Coast sends me the $19,955,483.21 he promised me!