deja

Yeah that needs to be hooked up. Hey man, good luck with Gustav. Gonna be a rough ride, sure hope eveyone stays safe over there. Dale

BTW the another thing that can prevent the speedometer from working after you get it wired correctly is the VSS input to the PCM from the transmission. Make sure this connection on your 4L60E is hooked up. http://shbox.com/page/index.html is an awesome site for LT1 information. Its about a '95 Z28 but not much is different for other years. Mine is a '94 and this site has helped me a lot.

The tach output from the PCM is on A13 and is a white wire. The problem with hooking the VSS to the wrong connection is possibly the circuit in the PCM is not designed to handle the amount of current the speedometer wiil demand. If the tach output and VSS output come from the same circuitry inside the PCM its possible they are both damaged. Again I hope not, and hope GM designed them right so they could take a shorted output without damage.

LOL, I'm a digital tech. +5v is about ancient history these days with the new processor technology.

Do you have the instructions for the speedometer? I would assume you need +12v and ground to make it work plus the VSS signal. You probably have another +12v line for the speedometer light. Its possible you damaged the PCM VSS output by connecting it the the +12v input the the speedometer, I hope not. Why the tach no longer works is not a good sign. Disconnet the speedometer completely and see if the tach still works.

The VSS is the output from the PCM that makes the speedometer work. Where does the wire from your speedometer go? What did you do with the dark green/white wire that comes out of the PCM B8? I'm thinkig you have the wrong signal connected to your speedometer.

I don't know how your speedometer works but you need one setup to acept that signal. I am running TransAM gauges in my car and as far as I know the only signal you need is VEHICLE SPEED SIGNAL (VSS) which is the dark green/white wire coming from the PCM B8. I don't understand what you mean by I copied what they did with the tach". I'd check for a blown fuse, maybe you shorted something out during the install. Is your fuel pump running when you turn on the ignition?

LOL, been there done that. I looked at your original schematic a dozen times thinking I was missing something before I posted. Yes, the blue wire coming from the Vintage thremostat and going through the binary/trinary switch is +12v. My question is the line you have going to your computer says +5v, where are you picking up that? If you use a +12v signal as an input to your computer thats expecting a +5v signal you will somke the computer. There is a ground connection on the compressor connector, you should run it to a good frame ground.

I may not be thinking right this morning but it looks to me your high speed fan will come on when the low enable goes to ground. Then when the high enable goes to ground the high speed fan will turn off and the low speed fan will turn on. Do you have the schematic labeled backwards for the fan low and fan high? Also are you sure the Vintage air thermostat request is +5v?

On my LT1 I am running the intake through the stock hole with the filter in front of the radiator. Air is going through there so fast it really can't be heated even though mine is made of aluminum pipe. . According to my LT1scan the intake air is right at outside ambient temp.

From the way I understand the trinity and binary switch from Vintage is the AC enable is wired from the Vintage Condensor (blue wire) through the binary switch to the compressor. If the pressure gets too high in the dryer the binary switch will open and the compresor will shut down. I believe the trinary switch will turn on the fan at a lower pressure. I wish I had gotten the trinary switch, but its all charged now so I will use the binary switch to run the low speed fan any time the AC is on.

Nothing special about the flasher relay. You should be able to get one at any auto parts store. There should be 2 of them, one for the turn signals and 1 for the hazards.

Thanks, that interesting. My "stopper" doesn't have that rubber bumper on it, figures. I'll have to see what I can come up with for that. If the new bushings don't fix this I guess I'll make some spacers.

I have a280Z rack for sure. I measured the bushings I have and they are about 1 3/16" thick. Any idea what the thickness of the 240Z vs the 2980Z should be? I have ordered new 280Z bushings from Black Dragon. They should be here when I get back in town next Tuesday abd we'll attempt this again.

I heard that! My buddy said "Let me get my welder out, I'll fix it"! A solid mount would probably result in a lot of vibration though, and this is a street car. I orderd rubber mounts from Black Dragon, hopefully they will be correct and will fix this. Unfortunately I will probably need another $74 front end alignment.

Funny you should mention that. While we were charging the system today I read about the trinity switch in the instructions. Too bad I bought the binary switch. I remember asking them about trinary vs binary but I had no clue at that time what he was taking about. Oh well, its charged and working now, maybe when I build the new engine I'll swap. Also sorry about the hijacking.

The rack seems fine. But it seems I have the wrong bushings (see my post today). At least I hope thats all it is.

The rack is new (rebuilt) its suppoed to be a RACK & PINION, 1973-1978 NISSAN 260Z / 280Z, I stressed several times that my car is a 1977 280Z. Everythg is steel. The bushings are again supposed to be Datsun 260z,280z Urethane Steering Rack Bushings. But either of these could be wrong. Are the 280Z bushings wider than the 240Z ones? Unfortunatley I already threw away my old ones and sent the rack back as a core. Looks like I should try to find some bushings local.

I needed new inner tie rods. It is actually cheaper to get a new rack with inner tie rods than buying the inner and outer as a set. I installed the rack with new poly bushings and had the front end aligned. This has cured my steering wheel shaing I had over 60 MPH. All seemed good except there is a lot of play in the steering wheel. I took the car to a friends this morning so he could help with the rack play adjustment as per the shop manual. But we noticed the whole rack is moving about 1/8" or more right and left when you turn the wheel. I checked the 4 bolts holding the rack on and they are tight as they can get. What is that muffler clamp thing on the rack supposed to do? The old rack had a rubber pad on the bottom of the clamp but the new one does not. The bushing don't seem to take up the entire space on the rack, am I missing something or is it possible I have the wrong bushings? I pulled it all apart this afternoon, twice, and if anything its worse now.

The first part is right. I just got my AC running. There are several connections (refrigeration temp or pressure) from a GM AC unit to the PCM that I can't wire up since I'm using a vintage AC instead of the GM AC unit. I may try to contact Vintage to see if there's a way to get to the refrigeration temp or pressure signals on their unit but I doubt if there is. So I don't think the PCM is going to turn on the fans based on the AC inputs. Right now the PCM is not turning on the fan unless the coolant temp get to 192. It seems to work fine, even in traffic, but I don't think that is really safe for the compressor to rely on coolant temp instead of refrigeration temp or pressure to turn on the fan. So I am going to wire in another relay to turn on the low speed fan when the compressor clutch is engaged. I will use the clutch enage signal to active this relay's coil. +12v from this relay will be wired to the input on the NC contact on the low speed fan relay so the low speed fan will turn on either when coolant temp gets to 192 or the compressor clutch is engaged. Like this:

Make sure you add some extra wiring so when the PCM turns on the high speed winding it also turns off the low speed winding. The Taurus fan won't like having them both energized at the same time. This is how I did my LT1:

Looks good. Any reason why you're not using the PCM to control your fans? You can set the turn on temp for the two fans and wire the outputs to run the two speed Taurus fan. I don't think you need the slow speed fan on all the time. Mine only runs when its super hot outside and I'm stuck in traffic.

Just to follow up on this: I picked up a new rack with inner tie rods from Auto Warehouse in SC, some new poly rack mounts from reddat off EBay and two LH outer tie rods from Oreilly's Auto Parts. I needed to get one locking-nut to match the LH tie rod since my old rack still had the original reverse threaded one. Getting the old rack out wasn't too tough. The balancer on the engine was a little tight but I was able to slide the rack toward the drivers side to get it out. Getting the new one in by myself was a bit of a challenge. The only hard part was getting the steering shaft inserted in the rack. In hindsight it might have been easier to remover the shaft at the coupler but once the rack was out that just wasn't going to happen. That was much easier to remove before I installed the engine! I finally figured out if I removed the rack mounting bushings I had enough room to slide the shaft into the rack. Then I installed the bushings. It took me a while to get the wheels reasonably straight so I could drive it to the alignment shop. Man what a difference this new rack makes. The inner tie rods on the old rack were shot, that was pretty obvious after the rack was out. There was so much play in these it was ridiculous. One of the rack boots was ripped as was one of the outer tie rod boots. Both rack mounts were rock hard but didn't show any signs of excessive ware. There were no grease fittings on the old tie rods, there is on the new Moog ones.The steering in now much easier and that 60 - 80 mph shimmy I have been unable to get rid of in finally gone. Thanks to everyone for your advice. I never would have thought to use LH tie rods on both sides.

Like DavyZ said congrats on sorting it out on your own. You'll be better off in the long run if you do that so in the future if you have porblems you'll know how you did it. Make schematics of everything you do. One note about your idea of running relays in parallel. That works in theroy but in the real world one relay will always close before the other one and that will defeat your plan. Get a higher current relay if you need it.

The rear panel is home made from fiberglass. The Tail lights are '85 Corvette with LED bulbs. The bumper is a 240Z fiberglass MSA. The rear spoiler is a one piece 5" tall unit, no clue who made it I found it on EBay. I have plans for back-up lights to be mounted in the valance.