deja

Cool, The Corvette ones use a donut flange but the SBC ones use a flange (at least the reducer they refer photo has one) and it says will work with angle plug heads. One question is the ports. The Corvette ones says square, it doesn't say on the SBC.

The Corvette manifolds exit in the middle much like the ramhorns.

I'm not saying they will work but Corvette manifolds might be another option. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corvette-lt1-exhaust-manifolds-92-93-94-95-96_W0QQitemZ220333480817QQcmdZViewItem

Sounds like you have a bad ground or +12V going to the headlight causing interference with the ignition module. Try disconnecting the headlights and turn on the switch to see if it goes away.

I am running a Z28 wiring harness and Corvette tail lights so I'm NOT using Datsun style bulbs. My front turn signals are custom LED ones so no bulbs there. But in the rear Corvette lights I am using the widest available. Sorry can't remember what the number was. You want red ones for the rear and yellow for the front even if you have colored lenses.

That is where I got all my LED bulbs, turn signals and brake/tail lights. If you're going to use these for turn signal be sure to get a solid state flasher too or they probably won't work because of the reduced current draw.

Congrats Mike, sounds wicked.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120554&highlight=steam

Sorry or maybe not to tell you but that's the way the racks come these days. Apparantely the left side inners are no longer made. I put 2 right side outters , no big deal. The wheel alignment people didn't even notice. I went through this too. I bought the outers before the rack came in. But I was still able to exchange the left side outter. You will have to get another set of right side adjustment nuts.

Have you made sure the peddle play is adjusted right? When I put my car back together I had the peddle play set too tight and the brakes would not release properly after applying the brakes at speed.

Nice Gabe. Looking forward to May.

That would be quicker240. Heres the vids I shot of his runs the last 2 years. http://www.dejavideo.net/280z8/quicker-240.wmv http://www.dejavideo.net/280z8/DNI-quicker240.wmv Please right click and save these, don't try to stream them the files are large 8.6MB and 3.7MB.

Greg is right about the TB lines, you don't need them. The heater hoses are NOT the same size on the LT1, you can get a reducer at any parts store. I don't have an oil cooler either But this might give you the idea of how its hooked up on an F-body. Looks like it goes to a lower radiator fitting.

One other thing about the LT1 you should know early. Depending on what car your engine came from you may be too many hose fittings on the water pump. If you have an F-body engine you will need to remove and plug that bottom right hose fitting. For venting off the air in the heads download this doc and follow the instructions. Its tough getting the air out, you may have to do it several times but this works. http://www.dejavideo.net/280z8/CoolantDrainandRefill.doc For some insite on how to plumb in the steam pipe from the heads there are several methods mentioned in this link. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120241&highlight=lt1+water+pump Dale

No clue on the truck rad. The biggest issue is size, there is not a lot of room in our cars. You can get the dimensions at http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Radiator_Kit.html. I tried fitting a 94 Z28 rad from my donor car, wasn't even close. Seems like the JTR manual said somehting about an '86 chevey rad. But the price of JTR's radiator is a deal, its aluminum you get the brackets and fittings and it fits. The LT1 does run backwards. I have the thermostat fitting on the water pump going to the bottom rad fitting on the passenger side and the top fitting of the rad on the driver's side going to the other fitting on the water pump. Do some searching here, you need the fitting for the steam pipe on the LT1 plumbed in or you WILL have major cooling problems. You also need to vent off the air in the heads when you fisrt fire up the LT1 or again you WILL have major coolling issues.

Well its worth a shot to try the ram horns. This is what I am running on my LT1. They are still tight with the steering shaft but they will work. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Headers.html

If you're talking about the "new" LT1 93 -96 then I don't think the ram horns are going to fit. The LT1 heads have angled plugs for one thing. I put ram horns to replace the rusted out long tube headers the PO had on my old 350 engine and killed its performance, too much cam. I also don't think the drivers side stock LT1 manifold will fit in our cars, it will hit the steering shaft.

As someone who grew up in the muscle car era of the late 60s -70s my first reaction was "why would they do that to a classic car". But then I thought that is pretty much what some Datsun purists probably think of my 280Z with a Chevy LT1 engine. I love the 'Cuda body and this will probably make a real nice ride. Keep us posted on the updates.

Been there, tried that it will not work. My 280Z went so far down it was crazy, looked like a low rider with ridiculous camber. I wish I had taken picts but I didn't. It was a lot of work that all had to be undone.

This was in my 280Z when I bought it, I cleaned it up a lot before this pict was taken. This is what I changed it to.

I rememebr your engine issue, that sucks. Any clue what caused it? You guys in the great white North have had a tough winter for sure. But spring isn't that far off. Good luck with the Caddy engine. My engine has a pretty bad iol leak, I think its the front cover, which I need to address. But rebuilding that '95 Z28 engine I have might be the smarter move.

I thought about bringing in outside air with mine but VA advises against it. You might want to call them to get their input. They have a very friendly help desk.

Look in the driveline stickies, there is a lot of info and picts.

I may be wrong but I think from reading here that the automatic 280Z may have the weaker R180 diff as opposed to the R200. But given the choice get the better body and get the diff later if needed. In the big picture if you're going to race this thing at all you'll want a LSD anyway and no 280Z comes with that.

Not sure if I got mine from them but it was around that price. After 5000 miles so far so good. BTW I added one of those wrap around heat shields around mine, it sits mighty close to the hugger headers. I think heat took out my stock starter.