deja

You can get a flasher designed to work with LEDs. Or just add a resistor to load the circuit so the old flasher will see enough current to operate like the bulbs. http://superbrightleds.com/ I am running LEDs for turn signals front and back, tail lights, brake lights, 3rd brake light and all 4 side markers.

I don't know anything about the MSA mounts but JTR has everything you need at a very reasonable price. Get the manual, read it, learn it and you will have no problems. I am no expert at engine swapping, mine was really the first time I ever atempted anything like this. The swap was really pretty stright forward with only minor complications.

Yes they draw a lot less current and have a much much longer life span. Expensive, but worth while IMHO. You can buy LED bulbs to replace the incandencants you're running now if you don't want to go to the trouble of replacing everything. Check with thse guys. http://superbrightleds.com/.

I don't drive mine the the rain either if I can help it. But both runs to DNI were done in the rain. I don't know how much of a real problem it is but having the rain shield makes me feel better.

Nice, that should certainly give you enough air! Any particular reason you decided to bring the rad upright? Are you going to add rain shields for your air cleaners?

This is my push button start. Its from a Viper, found it on Ebay. I connected it through the Camaro chassis wiring harness I used to replace my 280Z chassis wiring. It still uses the GM VATS system. The ignition key is next to the push button start and then my fuel pressure gauge.

I was pretty upset when I did mine. The guy I bought it all from said it would work. But he was sent to Iraq so I didn't get too upset at him, don't think he knew it wouldn't work anyway. At the time I had a shoulder injury and had farmed it out. So I ended up paying twice, once for the 240Z stuff and once to put the 280Z stuff back. But I was able to use the 4 wheel disc conversion parts which was the whole idea anyway. I ended up selling the rest of the 240Z stuff to my mechanic so it wasn't a total loss. Live a learn, should have done more research here I guess. quote=240zwannabe;948027]damnit man!!! i wouldn't be mad if i wasn't into the body work stage

Yep, been there, tried that because I didn't know better. It won't work. my car looked like a lowrider with the back suspension sitting scary low. Like JohnC says the geometry is all wrong. Get some 280Z lowering springs and sturts and you're good to go.

Wow!! That is one beautiful paint job. Bummer about the ankle, hopefully it won't take too long to heal enough to drive the car.

I'm running a LT1 with a 4L60E. I used the stock shifter from the '94 Camaro. I cut and dropped the tunnel a little to get the shifter to sit a bit lower. It's fine for a street machine but if you want to manual shift it for drag racing the B&M bracket shifter may be a better choice. Then of course there is the paddle shifter from http://www.twistmachine.com/shopping/ Expensive, since you have to get a controller too plus a Grant wheel and adapter.

That is an impressive launch. Are you coming to DNI on the 18th?

Well you got the burnout part down!!!! Nice wheelies too, that's got to get Jerry's heart racing! Like Warren said do you think wheelie bars would help? Then again it got way loose on the first run without pulling air. We are all going to miss you if you decide DNI is pointless.

Are you talking about the rack bushings? I didn't have any issues getting these on, they are a 2 piece bushing, slip right on. Too easy which is what my problem was.

Anybody that ever run side pipes will tell you the exhaust exiting that close to the door is a PITA sitting still with the windows down. All that exhaust and heat rools right in the window. I did that on my '70 AMX but took them off after only a month. Looks cool, sounds cool, but its tough to live with if you plan on driving in city traffic.

Fiberglass bumper, modified custom grille from a Dodge Ram pickup.

Email sent to you RR account

In my '77 280Z I'm running a LT1 with a 4L60E and I had cut the complete stock tranny mounts, not just the ears. Plus I had to beat the tunnel quite a bit on the passenger side to clear the cooler lines. The JTR trans mount sits up against the floor, no clue why your mount would be so low, that does not sound right.

Beautiful ride. That's a lot to accomplish in that time period. Got any picts of that one-off hood?

Loud? I'll say its loud. Thing were falling off the wall in the background. Awesome guys, I sure hope the Z can handle all that. When are you planning its maiden run?

Great job, that color is over the top.

Be carefull with thinking the Datsun Spirit brackets will bolt up right. I bought the 240Z to 280Z rear bumper mounting brackets from Datsun Spirit. Technically, the brackets are for European 260Z/Japanese A-S30/S31 models. These brackets bolt to the mounting holes in the valance just like a 240Z bumper would. Unfortunately they don't exactly line up with the MSA bumper mounting brackets. I had to make new brackets for the MSA rear bumper. I used a Dremel to cut off the MSA brackets, found some steel at Home Depot in the decking bracket section the same thickness as the MSA ones, bent them in a Z shape at both ends and then glassed them in. The brackets are short enough so the bumper sits only about 1/2" from the rear valance panel. The 240Z mounting tabs on the bumper are too far forward to use unless you drill through the fender on the 280Z. Since the 280Z fender is a double wall fender/inner fender I decided to use the stock 280Z fender mounting nut which is about 8" toward the rear from the 240Z tab. The 280Z mounting nut does sit below the bumper a little but not much. I made new the fender mount side tabs and glassed them in after cutting out the 240Z tabs. I put a piece of 1/8" rubber under the tabs to protect the body. Even though the Datsun Spirit brackets didn't fit perfectly I'm glad I didn't attempt to make them. It could be done but would have been a major effort with the equipment I have. The MSA 240 bumper is supposed to be an early 240, I don't think the Datsun Spirit brackets were designed to fit the early 240 models. Rather than try to modify the Datsun Spirt bracket I made new bumper brackets, it was easier for me. BTW when I talked to Datsun Spirit last October he was almost out of those brackets so you might check with them before ordering.

Right now its not a big deal. My car is pretty much a street car with an occasional trip the the drags.

That was my plan. But the 280Z has a welded on bracket with a 1 bolt and slot strap that holds the bushing in. Without major modification to that bracket I can't add the spacer.

I have this problem with my 280Z LT1 swap. Right now I am running without the rear bar. Where did you put those .5" spacers?

Holy cow! That looks awesome guys, can't wait to see it at Silver Dollar.