deja

I finally got my Altec Products headlight covers installed. This is something I've wanted since I bought the 280Z almost 3 years ago.

If he has tweeked the engine at all thats very possible. I turned 12.9s with stock engine, an automatic, 215/50 street tires, 3.54 non-LSD and no drag race experiance. Also I have a 2905 llb 280Z, if he has a 240 it would weigh quite a bit less.

I hope this finally fixes all your issues, Seems like you've been fighting this for quite a while. Good luck in the West Coast Nationals.

Congrats. My LT1 ran rough before I installed the 02 sensors. As far as your cooling goes this is from Shobox.com and pretains to the LT1 but I imagine it holds true for an LSx too, it fixed my cooling problems: If you have removed the thermostat, you might want to fill the block with your coolant mix through the top of the water pump before placing the thermostat back in. Some people report that this helps to lessen air pockets. Fill until the water pump remains full, install thermostat and water neck, then continue with the next item. Using a 50/50 mix of coolant to water, fill the system through the radiator neck (bleeder valves open). LT1 coolant capacities for the 4th gen F-body: With Manual Transmission - 15.3 quarts (14.5 L) With Automatic Transmission - 15.1 quarts (14.3 L) [*]Close bleeder screws when bubbles disappear and only coolant is visible. [*]Fill the coolant recovery reservoir to the COLD fill mark. This will provide the extra coolant required to replace the air left in the system upon the first couple of thermocycles. [*]Install coolant recovery cap. [*]Block wheels and run engine in Park or Neutral with the radiator cap off until thermostat opens (you should see coolant circulating in the radiator tubes). [*]With the engine running, add coolant to the radiator until the level reaches the bottom of the filler neck. This may be tricky if you have an electric pump because coolant may try to gush out-be careful. Install cap sooner if you need to. [*]Install radiator cap. [*]Check for leaks after the engine is up to running temperature. Monitor engine temperature. If the temperature goes up into the red zone, turn off engine and allow to cool. After it has cooled, check the level in the remote reservoir and correct if necessary. Open the radiator cap and check the level there, too. Run engine again until the thermostat is open and check again for air at the bleeder screws. I got a lot of air out of the bleeders. But my biggest issue was my overflow tank was not working properly. I reconfigued it with the radiator overflow hose going to the bottom of the tank and an overflow hose coming out the top to dump fluid on the ground in case of a temp problem. I haven't had any temp issues since. That includes sitting in a traffic jam for 20 minues on I-75 coming back from DNI.

LOL, my dyno is not the same one JNJ use. I didn't even know they had hired her. Ya gotta love a woman that can turn wrenches even if she was a Ford mechanic before she came to Balanced Performance!

Ah grasshopper you know me well, LOL. http://www.dejavideo.net/280z8/dyno.wmv Please right click and download. Note Heather, the cute redhead setup girl! Yeah, it was a blast, nothing as spectacular as your pulls (I didn't think the straps were going to break) but still a rush. When he kicked it I was right behind the car and thought my head was going to explode, Heather brought me ear protection! I didn't realize how useless my mufflers were at full throttle. All good ideas for the engine. Like I mentioned in my reply to grumpy all that is in my long term plans except "real" headers (I don't thing they would fit with the JTR set backs.

DOH! My long term plan is a different engine. I have a 95 LT1 I bought to use in the car but after pulling the heads I decided it really needed to be rebuilt. Then I picked up this setup and it was easier and faster to use a known running engine. I won't do any modes to this one but a CRT test might be interesting anyway. From the looks of the rest of the car this engine was not maintained very well.

I did notice that but didn't really know what it should look like. I'm running a stock Z28 4L60E converter, or at least as far as I know and a 3.54 rear gear. I have Sanderson Blockhugger headers and 2.5 " dual exhaust running through small mufflers and resonators. CPR test?????

I have no clue! I have not attempted to change that from stock. Its probabaly running a bit rich like most LT1s in stock form do.

After DNI where I turned a best 12.921 I wondered how much HP this bone stock 94 LT1/4L60E with 115,000 miles really produces. The only modes I have made are hugger headers and a cold air system. Curiosity got the better of me so I just got back from the dyno, that was fun. That is one noisy beast at 128 mph! It did better than I expected, best of the 3 pulls: 265.6 RWHP @ 5200 and 308.0 Torque @3400. The curves were very smooth, no drops at all. HP started to drop off but only dropped to 250 at 6000 rpm. Looks like I need a cam and heads, LOL.

For my LT1 swap I picked up a wrecked but driveable 94 Z28 for $1500. I sold off more than $1000 of the car and still have some stuff. So I got the engine, tranny and a complete wiring harness for $500. Tearing the car apart was fun for me, but then I intertain easily! The downside is it can be a bitch to get rid of some stuff. Anyone need a hatch or complete front suspension for a 94 Z28? LOL.

Nice, congrats. I like the way you did the strut brace. Interesting routing of your brakes lines. Hey, that driver's side headrer is tight on a US drive LT1 too! Can't wait to hear it run.

You provide ignition hot to the relay coil or the contact? My print is from Shobox and is for a '95 Camaro or Firebird and my GM shop manual is for a 95 too. Our 94 Z28's might be different. I never really checked since I never had fuel pump problems...until the relay died. Your thread and Grumpy's both mention Corvette and that might be different than a Z28 as far as that oil pressure thing. Bryan is using an engine from a Firehawk so who knows what that things uses, but I wouldn't be surprised if it uses the oil pressure thing too.

PCM provides power to the relay, ignition provides the power to the pump through the relay contacts. This is the print for the fuel pump control from the PCM:

Take a look at that "fuel pump relay control" that goes to the fuel pump relay (pin A7 (dk grn/wht) on the PCM and see what that is doing when the fuel pump shuts off. I've heard rumors that sometimes removing VATS setting from the PCM really doesn't work. LOL, no problem Bryan, its not like I'm going to use or sell it.

I agree. I kept the VATS in mine adding a removeable resistor in place of the GM resistor key. Just a litle more theft protection.

I'm using the stock Z28 harness and the tan wire from the sending unit at the back of the block definitely goes to the gauge. I had issues with my oil pressure gauge and totally checked this out so I know that is correct. There is also the oil level connection to the gauge cluster (BRN pin D12 on a Camaro & A15 on a Firebird) , no clue if that can cause your problem: I looked that the PCM connections and could not find any oil pressure inputs to the PCM. But A7 (dk grn/wht) is the "fuel pump relay control" that goes to the fuel pump relay. Are you sure your VATS has been removed from your PCM? There is a signal that comes out of the VATS that controls the fuel pump relay. So even if you can start the car by bypassing the key resistor VATS will shut off the fuel pump.

My driving theory is to drive fast enough to stay ahead of the wrecks and traffic problems....but not too fast so you catch up with the next wreck or trafiic problem! My difference in milage to and from DNI: 21.5 mpg on the way down, driving at 75 mph 18.5 mpg going home, I drove a bit faster but had about 15 miles at 25 mph because of a piece of wood in the road, WTF! But that also included the 6 runs I made at DNI. Considering I got 13 mpg in my old SBC setup, I'm pretty happy with the LT1 and the computer is still learning.

Thanks

And yes I searched. Is the diff from a Fairlady 300ZX twin turbo a R200 or R230?

Very nice. Awesome job on the hood. I used the Z28 shifter on my LT1/4L60E swap. I cut out part of the tunnel to lower it some and am using the Z28 cable instead of using rods. Works great and only a tiny hole through the floor for the cable is needed.