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deja

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Everything posted by deja

  1. Hope the paint job is worth it. Those barter arrangments never seem to work out like the should.
  2. They are block huggers, they are the same on both sides. Collectors are right in the middle.
  3. Sunday I posted http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119776 saying I had some clearance issues with the driver's side header on my LT1. Last evening I started grinding on the spacer. I took quite a bit off, more than I'd like but little by little the header got closer to fitting. Finally I could get a piece of paper between the spacer and header pipe. The just out of curiosity I switched the two headers side to side. Seems like Sanderson's quality control doesn't hold very tight tolerances. The other header fits with about a 1/16" more clearance. Looking at the weld at the port its obvious why. The second header is welded closer to the top of the flange opening than the first one raising the pipe at the bottom 1/16". I wish I had seen that before I started grinding. Hopefully the metal I removed from the spacer isn't going to be a problem, I don't think it will, there is still a lot left. Oh yeah, when the header is properly seated I have no clearance issue with the steering shaft.
  4. Sanderson is saying not to use anything but the high temp RTV. I have decided to go with Earl's gaskets, highly recommended by a couple of buddies. Expensive but they say they have never had a leak with these. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR%2D29DA3BERL&N=700+115&autoview=sku
  5. Thanks, I found the 1406 at Summit and the locking bolts too. Those bolts are expensive, LOL. Advanced deosn't have them listed on their on-line site but that doesn't nean much as to what they have at the stores.
  6. Thanks, maybe I'll give it a shot. These are so easy to put on and take off, not like other headers I've had. And mine are really nice too.
  7. Yikes, tell us how you really feel, LOL. The quailty of these looks great and I got them in a week from JTR. But I have my doubts on the RTV too. Thanks for the felpro tip.
  8. "D" port angle plug black huggers. thanks
  9. My limited experience with headers is that they will eventually leak. My new Sanderson headers claim you don't need a gasket at all but to install them with high temp RTV. Has anyone done this, does it work reliably and would you recommend using gaskets anyway? If gaskets are your choice which type of gaskets do you recommend?
  10. Thanks guys, that takes a load off my mind. I will shave a little off the spacers to make sure the headers are seating properly.
  11. The setbacks are JTRs, aluminum. I thought they are 3/8", never measured them. If I moved the engine back the shaft clearance would get worse not better. One thing I haven't done though is bolt the steering shaft to the firewall, right now it only being held at the dash. I will try that tomorrow. I may hit the spacer with the grinder and remove enough to at least see light. Right now I'm not sure the headers are seating fully on the head. Ah, the joys of hotrodding!
  12. Still one up on me. I have never welded anything and this sure isn't the palace for me to start.
  13. You can hook up this module on a connector so when you leave the car you can take it with you which would enable the VATS system. Might help protect your car plus anti theft devices can save you a few bucks on insurance.
  14. Another weekend and I'm a little bit closer. Yesterday I removed a ton of undercoating to get ready for my baddog frames. Today I mounted the Z28 accessory mount with the gutted PS pump, the tensioner and the alternator and since the Bower AC mount came in Thursday I mounted it and the Z28 AC compressor. Bartman had said there was some tweaking necessary to use the Bower mount. I had to not only massage the shock tower and had the massage the Bower mount as well. And even with that I have less than 1/4" clearance, hope that's not going to become an issue later on. Then I finally got the transmission mount bolted up. At least temporarily, I plan on welding in some more support to bolt the mount to. Since the engine and tranny are now in their final positions I thought I should at least test fit the Sanderson headers. The passenger side fits perfect, gonna have to move the knock sensor but I figured that. But I have a clearance problem on the drivers side. The front pipe is so close to the motor mount spacer I can't even get a piece of thin cardboard between them. Seems strange I have a clearance issue with the header and the Bower mount, once again I'm questioning the driver's side motor mount installation. Anyone see anything wrong in the picture. How much "play" is there in the spacer? If I loosen the spacer to engine bolts and jack up the engine can I gain any clearance? I guess the other option is the grind a little off the spacer. That fancy Sanderson logo on the header is very close to the steering shaft too. I really don't want to grind on the header since I paid mega dollars for the ceramic coating. All in all a fun and productive weekend. I gotta get my fuel tank sorted out, I so want to hear this thing make some noise!
  15. If you build them I will be your first customer.
  16. Wow that is some quick delivery, I ordered them on Monday. I spent most of the day getting rid of undercoating, what a mess. Thankfully its old and mostly came off with a twisted steel brush on my angle grinder. I also had to beat some bumps on my old crunched rails back so the new rails will fit. It will still take some "force" to fit them over the old ones but I guess that's a good thing. Now to recruit a good welder, LOL. BTW I was surprised to see the floor was spot welded to the rails, granted there are a lot of spot welds. I kind of expected to see a continuous seam. But I guess they don't build production cars that way.
  17. I have just stated my LT1 project. My car is a '77 280Z that had an old carbureted 350 with a truck 5 speed in it. Fun but it needed upgraded badly. The 94 Z28 LT1 is stock for now with a little computer tweaking, removing the EGR. I will be running a 4L60E transmission. My plan is to use my donor car' fuel tank and fuel pump, the z28 gauge cluster and complete engine and body wiring harness. I was shocked by the amount of wiring in a modern-day car compared to a '77 ear car. I have deleted as much wiring as I'm keeping, hope I have taken anything critical out, LOL. I still have a long way to go but its been fun so far, tiring for sure but fun.
  18. Owen, that hood is just badass, best looking Z hood I have ever seen. Some day I would like to duplicate that.
  19. This might be the easiest way. I just picked up some of those cable clamp things. I need to make a adapter plate for the firewall, the hole is too big for the Z28 grommet. I'll give it a test tonight.
  20. Unfortunatley, my car does not have that stock bell crank thing.
  21. The stock Z28 Lt1 cable will hook up to the 280Z accelerator pedal fine but its too long. Did you get a different cable like Lockar or just add a new crimp thing to the LT1 cable?
  22. Cool, I will see if I can fit that into my schedule.
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