Snailed

The regulator IS a bottle neck. If it's getting fed by two 255lph pumps a 3/8 fitting at the regulator won't matter.

It really depends on the engine, but you have the right idea. As long as it's running smooth and temps are fine it's safe. I wouldn't bother making lean holes where you cruise on the highway. Lean out all the areas that are in deep vacuum and above say 1800 rpm. You want to keep the low stuff a little rich so it's smooth in parking lots. Same with timing, you might want to retard it compared to the very lean areas to keep it smooth. Just keep on top of the TPS enrichment because it's very easy to be in a lean area and get on it and knock the motor for lack of fuel.

My $.02 I deal with 4 links at work frequently. Heim joints are the way to go for a setup that doesn't bind. A triangulated four link slightly twists all the end links when one wheel travels a diferent ammount than the other. You won't even be close to the maximum range with regular heims on a car. Those smaller poly bushing ends will bind a bit, but they do make for a little quieter ride. I wouldn't use stainless bar stock for the links. The easiest and least expensive way is to buy swedged tubes of the right length. They are amazingly inexpensive and would save you pounds of unsprung weight. Sometimes we fabricate cromoly arms using premade tube ends but that's overkill for the most part. Another option is using DOM tube that can simply be tapped for the heims. Easy to make and still not as heavy or expensive.

You can shrink the edges with a block of wood and almost any hammer. Look up "stump shrinking" on youtube. Same with using a tucking fork. It's not hard to do but it's hard to be consistant and make a part that isn't lumpy. Laying out a grid or alignment marks is a good way to help that. Even with a machine to shrink or a wheel to stretch, it's a good idea to mark out the part, for me at least. I replied to you but figured others might want to read about this stuff. It's a really fun challenge to shape sheetmetal.

That's a good company to deal with. I make pretty big orders with them...some things you can find cheaper elsewhere but it's not worth the time for me to shop each little part to save $10. redzedsled, I think I would consider 409 for a personal project if I was going to coat it anyway. Are the bends nice on yours? The 304 bends Verocious sells are pretty nice dimensionally and with few tool marks. I have got some from other distributors that were nearly square in cross section (worn out inner mandrel?) and covered in marks from the bender. I think those were from Gibson. My favorite are from Burns Stainless but the pricing and quality is well above what my customers want/need. I need some F1 cars in here hehe

Yeah, 321 is much better for very high temps (resistant to carbide precipitation compared to lower alloys). Generally pre-turbo exhaust plumbing is where it's used and also headers like you said. 304 is great for an exhaust system and I have used it for turbo manifolds plenty of times with fine results. I would say that 304 is the generally preffered SS alloy for car exhausts. It looks nice (for a long time), welds nice, and has good insulating properties for a reasonable cost. I won't use 409. I build exhausts for other people and there is just no way I can justify an expensive exhaust that rusts. I think coating it is a good idea...

I have made lots of pieces like that. You could make that without a wheel. It depends what you have for tools, patience, and understanding of what you are doing. You could make it all buy stretching in the middle (what an english wheel does) or all by shrinking around the edges or a combination of both. A shot bag is just for stretching and getting a part 80% shaped. You would then hammer against a firm surface (dolly, buck etc...) to smooth the shapes and further stretch, then planish to make it smooth. You could also do some final shrinking of high spots with a shrinking disc. It really doesn't take much for tools. Are you going to make one?

Hi, I'm starting to replace the rockers on my '71 240z and since my car has been hacked by someone before me, I don't know what a factory rocker is supposed to look like. Does the outer rocker have a little bit of curve in the dogleg area and then go completley flat as you move forward to under the door? What about the bottom of the front fenders? Is that portion curved or does it stay flat. Thanks!

The wheels they are a copy of, Desmond RegaMasters, come in RWD offsets and wider sizes with diameters up to 17" and some special edition ones went up to 18 x 10.5. Probably all of them will need spacers on an S30 anyway. And of course they are at the other end of the price spectrum being a forged wheel. The Spoon SW888 are the same thing too but I think they are more FWD fitmets.

I feel a little bad for taking a seized one off with an air chisle the other day. oops.

Does anyone know the thread diameter and pitch of any of these coilovers?

Great build thread man. You should really make yourself a little clamp/bolt on mic and headphone setup to listen for knock...even if you like replacing pistons I use a chassis ear but you can make one just as good for not much money at all. You won't beleive how good it works. http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Detonation-Detection-and-Recording/A_2717/article.html http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/95756-diy-electronic-detonation-detection-det-cans-under-25-dollars.html http://www.tercelreference.com/articles/knock_detection_listening_device/knock_detection_listening_device.html

There are a bunch of factory car engines from Honda and others that break 100% VE. It's pretty well standard to be over 100% VE for NA race engines. Some of them breaking 125%. It's interesting stuff to read about if you have the interest.

Use those bushings to move the arm IN. If tire clearance is your only goal, that will help but you will end up with more positive camber which will only get even more postive under compression. Good for drag racing...not as good for taking corners.

Check out mcmaster-carr. I have bought gas springs from them for custom hood hinges I made and to retrofit some on another project. Small ones that look like the ones in that kit start around $10 each and can come rated from 15lbs to 130lbs.

I would stick with what you have. If you use a 1" the pedal will be harder and it might move the slave too far unless you make a pedal stop inside the car. A 1" won't last any longer given the same design. You will like the .813" over a 1" master once you have a stiffer pressure plate too.

I have put in a bunch of the Vintage Air setups and they work pretty well...but I don't think that's what he is looking for. They do have some nice tech info on their site though. It's not that difficult to grab a whole hvac box from a newer car and adapt it. That would get you the controls, ducting, blower motor, and evaporator in one shot. After that you just mount a good compressor on your engine, run the compressor clutch wire to a binary switch in the high pressure line and back to the thermostat inside the car. Then just mount a condenser up front and a drier somewhere and start plumbing. You can buy rubber AC hose and crimp on ends at big parts stores like NAPA. There are also JIC/AN 37* flare stuff from aeroquip but they are very expensive (and look nice) If you get the crimo ends you will have to buy a crimping tool or have someone do it for you as you make up the hoses and mark how each end is clocked. You don't really need much of a system to keep the inside of a Z cool. It's a small cabin. I would suggest a layer of heat insulation on the firwall and floor to help it work better though.

You're missing the basics here. Think about what would happen if you removed the spring entirely. You loose ALL your travel, right? Lowering the spring perch, regardless of spring length, uses up compression travel. That is why people section struts, not becasue the springs might be shorter. You could put longer then stock springs on and lower the car 4 inches if the perch can move up and down.

That was actually a very good video and you made it very clear what you were building. Hope you have a new video soon.

Awesome, Thanks Evil

If you have some or can get me a pair, please let me know. Thanks!

I would think you have it bled out properly. Either method will work (among others) Clutch hydraulics are very easy to get all the air out of usually. Make sure you have it set up so the master can run through it's full stroke. There should be very little slack in the rod when the pedal is in it's resting position.

looking nice! can't wait to see it with coilovers.

Hey, seems like a good trade off. If I still did a lot of work on a two post lift I would steal your idea

Hopefully he means that he uses polyester filler to smooth out minor variations. For a regular restoration using a 1/16" or less of filler in some spots is completly fine and will not affect the longevity or quality of the paint work. If he's just packing rusty holes with fiberglass mat and calling it fixed, say "thanks for your time" and walk away. There are many instances when a properly made steel patch will actually be faster to make and finsh but most body shops just lack the tools and skill to do it. Most are nothing more than insurance fueled parts changers, trained to do it fast and cheap. Shop around