Snailed

That is true. I see a lot that are just the same diameter as the exhasut and then some are quite a bit smaller with an expanded chamber at the end. You should test a few configurations and graph it out for us. I like this project. I'm curious what you come up with. How loud do you want the whole system to be? Something just sporty or really loud? I work with a guy that has a 350 sbc with a mild cam in his '69 Camaro and he has short headers > 2.5" X pipe > Edelbrock SDT > 2.5" Tail pipes. It has a lot of the high strung sound you are looking for. I'll have to measure the tail pipe length for you next time I see it. I think his mufflers are further forward than typical. I probably hear half a dozen different chevy v8s in hot rods every week and this one stands out. It sort of sounds like an audi V8s. Has a nice howl when you rev it and no real lumpiness. Very quiet idle too.

First, the plastic loom should be rated for engine bay temps. You can tell if it's rated for higher heat becasue it will have a white or light grey tracer. The regular type has no tracer and is just plain black or some tacky, bright color. To give it more protection, you could get some reflective, heat sleeving, wrap or loom. DEI or Thermo Tec make lots of different products that will work. You could also use a thin piece of stainless steel to make a shield between and hot areas and your wiring. There are a million other solutions too...do some googling and learn how people do it and come up with your own plan. Most importantly, make sure the wires inside are still in good shape before you cover them up.

One way would be to weld a tube at ~90 degrees to the primary exhaust that is say, 12" long and the same or smaller diameter of the exhasut. Then, cut another tube that fits pretty well either the ID or OD of the 12" tube. Cut the 2nd tube about the same length and weld a cap on it. Now you have a chamber that can go from ~12" to ~20" allowing for some overlap. In order to seal and secure it for testing you could use an easyseal type clamp. It would be very easy to quick to make adjustments I think. Could be interesting to try more than one, tuned differently, to either hit two areas or widen the affected band.

Right. So have you already experimented with an adjustable resonator? I would use a loudspeaker design program to record SPL graphs and overlay them after each change in resonator volume. You might find adjusting tubing to be much faster than trying to use math to get your desired frequency curve. The acoustical changes are alot easier to measure than they are to predict with math, is my point of suggesting a simple, adjustable resonator. You are after an organic result (your aural sense), so why not use that sense as a design tool. I build home audio speakers and this is the standard practice to getting the particular sound you want. Math can only get you close at best.

Ah that is very cool. 126mph street cars are fun Those motors really are pretty civilized if you don't hammer on them. Nice sounding when they are cracked open too. Anyway, keep wearing out tires with that thing! It's good inspiration for those of us who are wearing out jackstands.

Very nice 60ft. Do you drive this on the street too?

Why not make an adjustable quarter wave resonator out of two pieces of tubing and an easy seal clamp? Then you could tune it to your liking and fabricate a more carefully packaged design to fit the car. People call them branch resonators too if you want to search around. Lots of aftermarket and oem designs incorporate one, usually to control a drone.

God, that's a lot of words for one post. I'm assuming that's a collection of other posts with some added by you? Check other peoples facts. There are several things I see that don't jive with other info I have read (not that what I read was correct, but it warrents checking out all the "facts" you collect). 1Bar is 14.5psi for example. I decided to go with a 1JZ-gte with an R154 for my own 240Z. I drive a W55 trans, with the CDD removed, everyday in my lexus and it's horrible. The worst transmission I have owned. I can't even imagine putting one in a 400hp+ Z and suffering the terrible shifts for the short period before it breaks. Then you are rewarded by having to change everything to fit a proper trans like the R154. None for me, thanks. I guess it depends on what you are willing to take on and what you are already familiar with. Most of that info could apply to any type of gasoline engine with a turbo so I assume this is your first turbo project. Keep reading and filtering out the good stuff and you'll come up with a good plan.

What is this cage for? Those rear stays should go to the strut towers, not the rear floor. Did you really search on here and read the results?

Great job on the suspension swap! "Picked up 115lbs total. So, Bigger brakes, hubs, calipers, wheel bearings. Stronger CV shafts, LSD, longer drive shaft, 18 x 10s (up from 14 x 6) two additional mufflers and a fuel cell. Still all glass steel and stock seats! " I love this quote

Having three connectors on that tube is more expensive and less reliable in my opinion. Weld it. If your engine moves enough that the 90 degree silicon connecters can't absorb it, you need new mounts. Plus, it just looks ghetto like that

Yes! This is gospel. If you have a wideband oxygen sensor in your car, you should have set up knock ears the day you plugged the wideband in.

That's a really nice control arm design. Well done

Wrong forum? Hahaha!

Check out VSUSP

In the thread you linked he is just buying a mustang II style front suspension. You just buy it, weld in the crossmember (correctly) and bolt on all the parts. Roll center, bumpsteer, camber gain, caster, KPI and even the brakes are all worked out for you (for better or worse). The kits are made by a lot of manufactures and start at a couple grand and go up from there. I'm actually installing a Heidts setup on an old Ford tomorrow. It's boring, but it works. There are lots of people that have adapted other IFS setups from stock vehicles too. I think I have seen BWM and Nissan 240sx front suspensions adapted into a Z also. Another option is to fabricate your own suspension to suit your needs/wants. If you are not sure what this entails, either froget about it or plan on reading A LOT before you start. Probably the most practical is to modify the stock strut design and optimize it for your car. Unless you want it to be really low, it seems like it can be made to work and work well for most applications. Every design is a compromise and I think your skills and understanding of suspension design should be your guide rather than what people on a forum think.

Why wouldn't you just get a polyurethane lip and save a ton of money? Is the xenon one not any good? I had a wings west PU lip on a civic and I absolutely hammered it off the ground for about 30k miles and the paint was actually pretty good on the front considering how I abused that car.

It depends what you are using this check valve for. There could be several on a car. If it's for a brake booster you want the flow going to the engine.

That works well, good tip. I was thinking of the quick disconnect dies which make nice beads that are held back from the end of the tube a little bit. That is nice if you are trying to slip on something reinforced like fuel injection hose. Both good things to remember.

[sarcasm] He pretty much had me convinced right off the bat. "Why people have a need to take a perfectly good car and turn it into a piece of crap by lowering it is beyond me. (Street Rods excluded.)" I mean, come on! What a fantastically good point, street rods are never horribly lowered cars OR owned by cheapskates. We are so lucky to have this experienced asset of the automotive community sharing his wisdom with us. What a blessing! Thanks for teaching all of us, old man. P.S. I work on street rods every F'n day [/sarcasm]

That's a good one (bad price though, it's around $320 other places) and the one I usually use at work. We use it a lot and have gone through two sets of hydraulic seals though. You can also use some of the dies to make a nice bead for a rubber hose to go over even though the directions don't mention that. J-hop, your link is the one I had in mind for you. The only problem might be using it to flare a line that is already in place on the car, which probably won't matter for what you are doing.

Just as a general tip on retrofitting power seats; if the controls are on the seat, nine times out of ten you can just feed power and ground to the two large wires in the plug and it will work. Most seats have constant power only so you can move them when the car is off.

If price is not an issue, just buy a quality flaring tool and make them yourself. Flaring is only hard if you have crappy tools. The good tools are very easy to use and fast too. Then you can just go to the auto parts store and buy a mess of tube nuts and a roll of line. I would strongly recommend cunifer/ copper-nickle tubing. It's very easy to work with and lasts longer than steel and it's cheap. $35 for 25 feet of 3/16". Figure about $200 for a really nice flaring tool and ~$75 for supplies and you will be able to make brake and fuel lines whenever you need. That's what I would do anyway.

Well, you said that they are not willing to made it right without paying. I would think about making a simple surge tank. If that either costs more or is more work than you are interested in doing, have them modify the tank again and baffle the sump.

A little progress. I used some cheap adjustable stands for campers to get the front level and supported while I build the rest of it.