D83ZXT

You Two! I'm BACK! Give'n ya fair warnings!!! LOL Mark that LSD is still sitting on the floor... Me

fazzt73... Please check your Pm's Thanks, Donna

Yum Yum....Nice Sleeper! Mark has been here Dan! Where you been??? LOL Donna

Joel, Could you please email me pics of your RaceOn hood? Thanks, Donna

I would like one with air brake ducts, also what does it weigh?

Very NICE Tim!!!

Bumble..... Did you knock them cones down?

It's not a two piece unit like Malvern Racing either

Hey.... watch that Z32 thing LOL

I agree with Dead Roman At work.... we send some parts on out for powder coating over painting them for custom restored/hot rods show vehicles.

Yes, you can get in different colors 8)

Hello Peanut Squirrel

Manley's makes them too. I went with them for the turbo stroker. If you can, stay away from Top End's. Been there done that. They are 6.00 (TEP's cost) cheap stainless steel valves. I've seen the difference which is why it's worth the extra cost of $25.00 back when my builder showed me the wear already on them. Tim's is so far okay with TEP's but I saw what mine looked like on a low mileage turbo'd motor. Donna

I did mine the same. 2 2.5 IC pipes.... It will fit Rory, you might need to push your AFM down a little more that all. It's not easy when our ZX's weren't ZXT to begin with. LOL but, when there's a will there's a WAY!!!!

Some people forget to do while rebuilding them... 8. Once all your parts are cleaned start putting them back together, first the spring into the lifter body, then the check valve. 9. Hold the lifter upside down and push on the check valve 5-10 times to get any remaining diesel fuel or carb cleaner out of it. 10. Submerge the lifter in NEW OIL so that you can push the check valve open and closed from directly above (right side up). Push on the check valve 5-10 times to remove all the air and to be sure it is full of oil. Remove the lifter from the oil, but keep it over the container so you don't spill oil everywhere. Place the plunger into the lifter body and make sure you cannot push the plunger down by hand, if the plunger moves then repeat the process (If you can still move the pluger after a few re-tries then your check valve assembly is shot and will need to be replaced). Replace the little metal cover. In order to get the cover to snap into place you will need to compress the lifter 1mm or so. This will allow you the needed clearance to easily snap the cover into place. I used a very large C-clamp. 11. Reassemble in reverse order, REMEMBER to KEEP ALL ROCKERS TO THERE RESPECTIV POSITION AS WHEN YOU REMOVED THEM. Well there you go you are now done and can enjoy once again a very quiet motor =)

Thank-you Guys Hey Joel... I'm back and I'm ready to rock and roll!!! I can't wait to get this puppy back on the road 8) PS.... You're in the "NIC" too "No Idle Club" LOL

You Guy's have it all wrong! That one is mine, all mine Ask James... he'll tell ya j/k PS.. that is a nice IC

Hello Rory NGK's in all three of my Z's but I use the NGK's Iridiums in the 83ZXT.

Always try for the "shortest" and "coolest" route possible. Driver side would be best

Pssssssssstttttttttt

That certainly changes the out look. Weld it up and give it a try. Don't forget there is a reason there are upgrades to the stock intercoolers for these cars. I would still do some test for pressure loss thru the cores once you get it all done. Another thing to think about it that I'm sure they will be more efficent than the stock intercoolers due the better placement infront of the radiator instead of in the fenders. Hey Cody! Yes, I still have my Pet. Good to see you're still around too! Gotta love them ZXT's RacnJsn95.... That's pretty cool you weld. LOL It seems like a needed thing to know while building up Z cars

I would have to agree with Cody... by the time you have someone weld the two units together, you could have bought a Sweet unit for a little more money.

Hey Alex... I don't know if your remember the sound of my ZXT... I agree with SleeperZ and I believe TimZ is using one also. From research from what I had found at the time was that Dynomax Ultraflow 3"in/3"out Race Magnum straight through had the least amount of back pressure. It's has a deep throaty rumble rather then a raspy sound like some do. Donna PS.. Good to see ya at Blackhawk!!!

Ummmm.. That's the wrong pic of TimO's (old set-up). I can tell because that's not the custom exhaust maninfold some of us bought awhile back. You Boys play nice now LOL Donna

James... You know I would never intentionally make you feel bad. I looked up my old TEP receipt. It doesn't show the part number. I was billed for SS valves @ 16.00 each, but then after spending money for Steve to build my head back then. I know Gerolamy had to re-do it since my valves was going to hit my pistions if I recall correctly. I know... I know... my head was already sent out before I knew about Gerolamy. If I only knew then, what I know now about TEP. lol Quote from TEP sales receipt. "It came out great and will cause no problems with the cam timing shims we used." Yeah Right. $1010. worth of head work that had to be redone and this was 3 years ago. Donna PS... How's the 2 little people doing?