2003z

If you ordered a while back and didn't get them, you might want to email Jim Fisher mailto:jfisher@konigwheels.com Ernie is no longer with the company. I found that out when I checked 2 weeks ago, and resent my info to Jim. My rewinds arrived today. It was right at $290 with shipping to Atlanta (the wheels come from CA, btw)

so should I just get the 79 master cylinder and make it work with my booster?

I have installed rear 280 struts in my 240 housings (tokico illuminas). Just had to cut the supplied spacers that go at the bottom of the strut.

73 240Z I've searched and read so much stuff that I'm even more confused now. I have S12W calipers front and 280zx calipers rear. Will the booster and 15/16" MC from 79 ZX bolt in, and is that my best solution. I don't want anything that I need to lengthen rods on, just a direct bolt in. Turning it upside down isn't a problem for me, neither is having to elongate mounting holes in the firewall. I've just read too many horror stories and want it to work right the first time. Also, should I gut my proportioning valves and install a Wilwood in the rear while I've got it all apart? thanks in advance.

On a 15x7 +0 wheel, how mouch of a spacer would I need to adequately fill the wheelwells if I added ZG flares? For now I am going 1" without the flares, but just curious if anyone knows. Oh yeah, thinking about the MSA set of ZG flares.

350Z Lemans Sunset would be nice, or for even more pop, the new Dodge Charger Daytona "Go Man Go" orange would be sweet. Also, I really like the dark gray of the Acura TL that they use in the commercial where its driving through a big puddle. All of the above with satin black stripes/accents would do it for me.

Another problem is that all the seam fillers they used in the original build will also be dissolved. Media blasting is usually a better option.

you can do it any time. It won't glaze them.

yes, performance is to be had by bedding them in. Check this out: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

no link?

vice grips?

I don't remember exactly which engines they were, but NAPS-Z was an engine series, if I recall correctly.

Any way you can get them to build a better 'Y' connection. I had one like built like that on my 350Z and it cost me about 10hp on the dyno.

http://www.boss-hoss.com/instock/02bk-vodoo/02bk-vodoo.htm just start out with a Boss Hoss!

I've seen that car, but unfortunately, it doesn't have the 350z seats, just the dash and center console.

No big deal anyway, just will take a little longer. Changed my order with the NASA wheel deal to 17" Konigs for a Honda and getting wheel adapters and then ZG flares if they stick out too far. Always wanted the ZG flares anyway, so I will get the widest adapters I can find.

I am going to be picking up a pair tomorrow and eventually figuring out a way to install them. If anyone has and has already done it or has some tips, I would appreciate them. I managed to engineer some brackets for CRX seats in my last 240, so I don't think it will be that hard anyway, plus $325 for the pair is a great deal.

yes it does, but not when I tried them with my 240 hubs. When I bought the car it came with a 280 suspension with tokico springs, illuminas and toyota front brakes. When I use the 280 hubs, they line up perfectly.

Don't know. Could it be that I'm using the hubs off a later 280 and only a 1/4" spacer to center the brake, putting the mounting point closer than with a bigger spacer and the thinner 240 hub?

unfortunately, those aren't the toyota brakes that I have, I have the S12W's. Think they will still work. Found out today that my snowflakes won't My 14" slot mags do with a 1/4" spacer, so I need to figure something out before I get it on the road again. I think the NASA deal Konigs are still a month or so out from delivery.

that really sucks. I feel for you man.

That's some amazing work! Great job!

the only reason is if you are on dial up, but no other reason.

thats 215hp/193 ft lbs to us non metric folks, almost as good as the NA z32

you can pretty much remove all the glass and rubber and stainless trim before painting. When I redid my last one, it was down to nothing but the windshield, and I cut the rubber on it around the outside so that when I had it replaced after painting, the new gasket went beyond the paint lines. Will take you about 2-3 hours to detrim and glass it, and well worth it in the end.