2003z

If they sell, I might have to copy your ad!

since the differential side flange is bolted in place, I don't think I hurt the differential, but might have hurt the axle shaft. It seems odd that if I didn't damage anything, the differential would go out at this time.

OK, so I got the car back together and went to drive it. There is a ticking noise coming from the rear somewhere, whether in gear or not. I put the car on jackstands, turned it on and put it in gear, to see if I could locate the sounds. Couldn't hear anything, but my left wheel wasn't really turning. Every second or two it woud rotate a tiny bit, and if I turned it with my hand, it felt like it wanted to go. Plus, the ticking noise is much louder when turning right, and almost nonexistant when turning left. When I was removing the left rear strut, I forgot to unbolt the axle from the hub at first. Is it possible that I pulled the axle partially out of the differential when I did this? Also, when up in the air and car turned off, in neutral, spinning one wheel does nothing to the other. In gear, they spin opposite directions, which I believe is normal. Whatever the problem, I don't think I'll be able to fix it by next sundays track day.

good thread, but someone obviously doesn't care for MSA

with a level, the front does sit slightly higher. First, I'm gonna drive it around a bit and recheck it. Second, I'll disconnect the front sway bar and see if that makes a difference. I've read somewhere that it ca. Third will be 280 rear hats.

Backed it in and out of the garage a couple times, hitting the bump from the driveway to garage floor, but haven't driven it yet. Like you said, they aren't gonna settle that much. and yes, they are the correct springs. Tomorrow, I'm gonna disconnect the sway bar, because I've read that can have an effect on lowered cars and also go for a long drive. If nothing happens, probably either get 280 rear hats or coilovers, eventually. the bad thing is, I just threw away a set of 280 rear hats, because with the 280 tokico springs, it sat even, and I thought I didn't need them.

yeah, I'll do that first, but the backs might also settle.Here are some quick and dirty pics with the flares installed.

yes, I did, but that was yesterday. I redid it today. The color was really irrelevant to me in the decision purchase. I figured if I ever repainted it, I would go silver or black, but I really love this particular green, especially with the black stripes, bumper and flares. WHen I got the car, it was flat green, but a little polish and a buffer shined it right up. Eventually, I'll do the back bumper in black too, maybe the hood?

but the front is still a little higher. about 2 1/2 finger gap at the rear and just over 4 fingers at the front. Any suggestions? Oh yeah, I got one of my ZG flares on. the paint is still drying on the others. I don't know, does it look right? seems like the front should be a little lower.

no difference

Apparently, this is wrong, for any future search engine users. I picked the wrong post to follow the advice of. No big deal though, just have to redo them tomorrow. .001 in front, .202 in back. the shorter ones actually go in the back, or you will get this:

Gosh, I hope thats the case. Although I'm not looking forward to doing it all over tomorrow, I hope its as simple as that. It sure would be nice if eibach included a sheet that said which were front, or labelled them that way like tokico does. edit, found confirmation on classiczcars I have them reversed. .001 goes in front and part number .202 goes in the rear. I followed the advice of the one thread on here that had bad info. Oh well.

I've got over 4" clearance on back, and 1/2" clearance on front between the tires and fenderwells, and the tires are 205/50-15, so they are pretty short already. I put the long, more loosely wound ones on the back and the shorter, more tightly wound ones on front, which I read somewhere on here, but I think I reversed them. Any other ideas? The car sat at a normal rake with 280 tokico springs, before this, just not low.

yes, any powdercoater should have it, or something real close. That particular smoke chrome is from eastwood company, its called 'new smoke chrome' in their catalog, but I darkened it up just a little bit with some black tint. And yes, the trim is just stainless, so the powdercoater will just have to clean it and shoot it. I'd volunteer to help you out, but my oven isn't big enough for the drip rails.

and here is 'smoke chrome'

sure was! Man the brakes are awesome. 4x4 front, early 280 rear, 15/16 mc and wilwood prop. valve with ss lines. Eddie did the MC, rears and valve for me. However, I discovered new problems now. I put a suspension out of a 280 on it, that came with the car when I bought it. Originally found the right rear strut housing bent, so I used my 240 rears. Now I found the front right housing is also bent. Looks like its just the front brakes and illuminas that I will be keeping. Gonna put my 240 housings back on front and get some 240 springs. At least it will look lowered now though