Z-Gad

As Scottie said, he may have been in the wrong gear (I was too), but the expression just killed me. I am sure he wasn't expecting anything out of my "little beater". It is just so rare to run across one of these exotic sports cars when your car is really set up to go and the other driver is willing to do something. I just happened to be, "set up to go" and he was "willing to do something". Gotta take advantage of those situations... No offense taken

Jeff, so far so good on the seal. The input shaft from his driveshaft may have been worn as you said... who knows Scottie, I have company coming from Finland tomorrow night and they will be staying with me a couple of weeks. This car has now been promoted to "daily driver" status and I cannot afford to beat on it too much until the 73 is back on the road. I'll see if I can take some time away from my visitors to finish up the 73... I'd be willing to swap heads up for the 911 as well

I was running a couple of errands today and feeling pretty good about the new ACT pressure plate, so I had to add some race gas to see whether or not it held boost. well, 20+ lbs of boost were no problem in any gear, even under heavy load... Anyway, I was heading down the East/West Expressway (for you locals) and what do I see, but a new 911 turbo (pearl white, temporary tags, huge brakes, a really beautiful car) in my rear view. I let him get up next to me, then past me (so I could check the car out) and I pulled back up next to him. I guess he figured he would show me what it would do and took off. I was doing ~ 60 in 4th gear and just floored it. I still had the boost set at 20 lbs and the car just started eating up the road and I reeled him in suprisingly fast and easy. It was an older gentleman and he had a rather bewildered look on his face as I walked past him. When I was a car length in front I slowed down and watched him drive past (he still wore the same look of disbelief). I laughed all the way home

Well, my stock 77 tranny finally gave up the farm, so I installed another transmission and the ACT 510 lb-ft pressure plate and all I can say is WOW!! My leg is beat!! the only problem I can forsee is possibly going through slave cylinders 'cause this thing is a bear. I have absolutely no slippage and it engages smoothly.

try leaning the mixture. I had a similar problem at 45-- - 5000 rpm's. when approaching the point where the "cutting out" took place, I turned the "what if" knob (mixture knob ) toward lean and the car continued to accelerate past the former stumbling point. I'd start there. Mike

Well, rick, I had one block crack between the #5 and #6 cylinder wall, then had 3 other F54 blocks sonic tested before finally finding one that the 89mm bore would marginally work on. I would recommend 88mm bore. I was greedy too

You could do that if you choose to. This way you could save the rear cover w/o chopping fins off of it for a later date, or sell it... I used the LSD diff brace another member sells when I installed mine, so I kept the finned rear cover. I figures the extra oil capacity can't hurt...

Well, it depends on which year 240 you have. If it is one of the early 240's (70-71), the rear end sits farther forward than the later years (72-73). If that is the case, when you install the R200 with the new components, it will be in the later, farther back position and the early driveshaft will be too short. If you have a later 240, the driveshaft will work, but you will just need a front diff flange from a non turbo 280z or 280zx R200 and the early driveshaft will bolt up. regards, mike

Here is a reply I received from ACT when I asked them about a pressure plate as I already have a disk modified with ceramic "buttons". I opted to go with just the pressure plate as I had the disk I need. After doing a little hunting, this place offers the same set-up for ~$20 less tan ACT tremselves. http://www.ptuning.com/html/search-result.cfm?cmbCategory=transm&cmbMakeModel=280zx&cmbBrand= Good luck, Mike

You'll want to keep the compression down pretty low then. When you hear people running their L28's at 20 psi of boost, their compression ratio is down around 7.5:1 (stock). If you order your pistons w/ enough dish, then you should be fine.

The KA24 pistons are the correct diameter and would probably work fine for a n/a application, but if you look at the compression ratio, you are looking at a 10:1 ratio. using the LZ24 piston (a 12cc dish I believe), the compression ratio is more managable, but they aren't meant to hold up under boost (found out w/ the first motor I built). Ideally I would suggest no more than an 8.5:1 ratio for the L-series turbo motor and forged pistons if you are going 3.0 or greater. I am around that 8.5:1 right now and wish i would be lower. I only have a 5cc dish in my pistons and have to keep the boost low ~10 psi w/ pump gas. Of course I have run 22+ psi with race fuel no problem!!

good luck Tim, keep us posted

I wonder if the rings or the ring lands have been worn enough to not give a proper seal when the rings are not pressed up or down against the lands (i.e. tdc) either way, you should redo the forged internal engine anyway, or build that stroker you want

Rick, if it is the one I gave you, don't worry about it. Just check out your old engine and go from there.

I hope your pocket book is REALLY deep, or you have mad fabrication skilzzz... To achieve you horse power goals, realistically you simply need the stock turbo drivetrain from a donor car and and intercooler to turn up the boost. Get the best intercooler your budget allows the first time so when you upgrade to get over 280hp (and you will), you won't have to run the plumbing twice. my $.02

There are 2 oil pans for the 280zx. In one the bottom of the pan is longer (forward) than the other. I ran into the same problem when doing a swap for a buddy of mine. You have to grab the other style pan.

If the lower edge of the ring lands are damaged, maybe the ring seals it when it begins the downward stroke Can you tell whether the air is leaking into the crackcase (check the breather holes or dipstick hole) or from the valves? (check for air out the intake or exhaust)

Do a search for JE pistons, Ross pistons, Venolia pistons, etc. using your search engine of choice. Expect to pay $600 and up for your set.

10 in of vacuum sounds a little low to me unless you are running an aftermarket cam. With the stock cam I had 21" Hg (probably a little higher than most) and with my current lopey cam , I have ~15" Hg at idle. Vacuum should be read from anywhere on the main plenum I believe. It should be pretty consistant throughout the plenum as well.

width of 2.5" isn't the best either, but it will probably due for the 350hp off the NO2. If you can find out the flow rate and pressure drop, then you'd better know what you'd have.

width of 2.5" isn't the best either, but it will probably due for the 350hp off the NO2

Hey Ivan, good seeing you this weekend!! Anyway, there aren't too many places to turn to if there is water in the oil...it is pretty much either getting around the head gasket, or you may want to check behind the water pump in the front cover. It is possible for the cover to be cracked, or corroded through far enough that water seeps through and leaks down into the oil. I am sorry to hear about your further problems , but hang in there. It'll be worth it when you are done.

Just to add to the mess... I believe this is how it goes... 81-83 280zx turbo T3 oil cooled only 84-87 300zx turbo T3 oil and water cooled 88-89 300zx turbo T28 oil and water cooled Correct me if I am wrong Never-the-less, none came with a T4 stock for sure.

Contact these guys first. I believe they had them for ~ $130. http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=179 If not, then courtesy nissan http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo/s30/