Z-Gad

I like their exhaust. For the price it can't be beat.

I kinda run whatever 225/16's or 245/16's that are convenient. They don't last too long on the rear wheels for some reason!! I do run Yokohama AVS Sports on the front though and 235 60 15 drag radials at the track. last dyno at 18-19 psi was 363 rwhp and 412 tq

Very humorous !!

I have no experience with o-ringing the block... but me likes the metal head gaskets

My 77 280 turbo with half a tank of gas weighed in at 2780 with me in it as well (165 lbs). That was on the scales in Reynolds this past SEZS event. Crash bumpers and supports gone, no spare, no heater core, blower motor, a/c etc. I do have a heavy pair of Conquest/Starion seats though...

EGT gauge!! I wish I would have had one from the start. It really helps with tuning.

Just bought mine. I'll let you know how it turns out. I chose the 22x19 since I am shoving it over to the passenger's side as far as it will go so I can make room for 2 new 2.5" intercooler pipes and 4" intake tube for the turbo all to come out the driver's side. 8) Oh here's the link... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=46098&item=2436202710

Call around and locate a shop who can do a leak down test for you. It should take ~ 30 minutes to do it and you will then know where you stand.

DAW, that was funny!! I was getting my dander all up until I saw the Bravo Sierra (B.S.) at the end of the initial thread.

Hmmm...leak down test..sounds like a good idea

Your dime is amazing. I am anxious to hear how your next trip to the track turns out... Were those dyno numbers before or after intercooler?

Jamie, the threading is close, however I took mine to a machine shop to have it done. It cost me $20 to have both the large bolt and the other oil feed opening tapped. The tap would cost more than that if you were to do it yourself... I have no leaks. Mike

I tapped mine for 1/2 npt fittings and ran braided hose to a B&M oil cooler up front. Just my .02

It sounds like the typical Z rear end clunk... Check the diff mount and those rear bolts on the mustache bar again. When you installed the new diff, did you install a new diff mount as well? I know there are varied opinions on the solid diff mount, but I installed solid diff mounts in both my cars and stand by them. Also check the mustache bar bushings as well. That bar has been known to give an occasional clunk...

Awesome Brad!! that kicks A$$!!

I have never run a CF clutch in my turbo car, however, I do have one in my n/a daily driver. The clutch disk appears to be the same material as any stock clutch. The material will make a difference, but for me atleast, the clamping force of the pressure plate is what really made the difference. I had a stock 240mm pressure plate modified by removing the stock material and replacing it with ceramic buttons. I put the new disk in with a stock pressure plate and although it held better, it would give up ~15psi. I ordered the 512 ft/lb pressure plate from ACT and problem solved. It engages smoothly since I am still using a sprung hub, and stays engaged due to the clutch material and pressure plate. I do notice that my knee begins to ache if I am driving in traffic for long periods of time though. The price to pay for engagement

http://www.venus-auto.com/inventory/nissan/engine.htm

OK, compression tests are good and your results look good as well... I've never dove a compression test as you described All compression tests I have done were with the engine somewhat cooled down and with no spark to the cylinders. I attach the compression tester to the cylinder I wish to test, have someone turn the engine over while I watch the gauge and see where it peaks. I check all six in that manner and then shoot a couple of squirts of oil (like a wd-40) into the cylinder and check all the pressures again. If the rings are bad, you will notice a discrepency in the non-oiled and oiled readings. Ideally, a leak down test would tell you more than a compression test. Each cylinder is pressurized, with both valves closed, and there are 2 gauges. One gauge shows the amount of pressurized air entering the cylinder and the other gauge shows the amount of air leaking out of the cylinder. If you have a noticable amount of leakdown, you can determine whether it is coming from the head by air exiting the breather vent on top of the valve cover, out of the intake, or out of the exhaust (worn valves, seats, or guides), or from the block by air exiting the breather pipe on the side of the block (worn rings, cylinder walls out of round, broken ring lands, etc)

Hmm... very interesting....

That is VERY reasonable. I will contact them. regards, Mike

Thoroughly enjoyed the story!!

Well, I am running 235/60/15 BFG's deflated to 18 psi (grab very well when hot), viscous LSD and trying to slip the clutch to launch the car under boost at ~ 5k rpm's. I was able to do it before and pull 1.8x 60' times, but I am making more torque now and when the DR's grab, the weak link pops up... the outer CV housing... Hey Clifton, do you remember off hand what the price on the axles cost you? I am weighing rear end options and would like to consider that one as well... regards, Mike

I had a similar problem w/ my daily driver a couple of years ago. It reminded me about it since it started when the crankshaft pulley came loose and it only happened under load. If you put the same pulley back on, check to see whether it is loose again. You might want to try taking it off and checking the keyway, the pulley and the keyway hole in the crank for wear. My keyway and pulley were toast!! Also, another place to check may be your fuel filter...

That is the dilemma I have now... If I were to switch to an automatic tranny, then I could probably keep the CV's. If I chose to continue with a manual transmission, then I feel I will have to change the rear to something stronger...