Z-Gad

I've been looking for that site for a year now!! thanks Jeff

I have used the 79-81 280zx distributor w/ the E12-80 2-prong module for 3-4 years now on my 10:1 compression L28 and SU's. All it takes to wire in are 2 wires. One from the module to the positive terminal and one wire from the module to the negative terminal on the coil and viola...electronic ignition

To get another opinion, you may want to take it to a local Diesel shop for a second opinion if you don't have a turbo shop in your area. Although they don't usually do performance turbos, they are well versed in turbos in general.

Coil packs here.

Best time thus far 13.1 @ 110 with SDS. I am still learning to tune the car and just found out my fuel pressure plummets after 10 psi , so after the new Walbro arrives, the fun will really begin. Formerly Patrick's 240z, now Tyler's car here in Orlando ran 11.7 @ 119 on pump gas and street tires w/ stock internals and SDS.

Hey Rick, I may have to take you up on that one

Another update... I replaced the stock fuel filter w/ a remote filter and also ran a temporary fuel pressure gauge into the car. I checked my fuel pressure and it was ~38psi, so I adjusted it back to where it should have been @ 43psi. I took the car for a drive and low and behold, fuel pressure rose under boost until ~7-8 lbs of boost or 50-52 psi on the fuel pressure gauge and then it plummeted down to 38, while still under boost !! Now, I have narrowed the problem down to a fuel pressure problem. I am picking up a Walbro 255 high pressure pump this week to replace the old 95 psi Bosch pump I have on the car (which came off of an old 280zxt parts car) and see if it corrects the problem. If not, then the Aeromotive FPR must be the culprit, but the fuel pump upgrade is a necessary thing anyway, so that'll be first.

Might as well take a test drive

Excellent link. I also understand that brake rotor warpage can be caused by over-torque-ing the lugnuts. Another good reason to invest in a good torque wrench

Very sweet Auxilary, glad to see another Z making progress...KUDOS to you

SWEET SHANE!!

Check out J.C. whitney for inexpensive mandrel bends http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=14721&BQ=jcw2

Well, depressing night at the drag strip. All I could muster were 2 passes almost identical. 13.4_ @ 107._ Swapping to the stock lifters didn't solve my problem of the car stalling after the burnout. My stock 77 fuel filter was clogged with crud (I saw some in the bottom of the fuel jug), so I am replacing it with a Fram performance one, but I don't feel that it is the root of my problem. I am beginning to think that it may be a fuel starvation problem and that the Bosch 95psi pump (unsure of the gph on it) may not be up to the task of running above 15 lbs of boost. I can increase the fuel mixture at boost with no real results as it appears by the plugs to be running lean (kinda white-ish residue which could also come from the race gas I have been running). Ok, it's getting late and I am beginning to ramble...

With the h.p. # you are looking for and the "lack of funds", I would suggest the L28 turbo. It is more cost effective to swap in a turbo engine and electronics than building the n/a up to what you are looking for. 250 rwhp shouldn't be too hard w/ the stock turbo, but as formentioned, you will need intercooler, exhaust, maybe injectors,and a method of turning up the boost (like a bleeder valve or adjustable actuator rod on the wastegate).

Just a quick update... I replaced the stiffer valve springs with the stock hydraulic valve springs yesterday. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. A buddy of mine made a u-shaped ended tool to compress the valve springs and I used the ole "stuff vacuum line into the cylinder and bring the piston up trick" to hold the valves up and in place while I compressed the springs. The results: The engine seemed to run smoother after hard acceleration and also seemed to have more pull through the higher RPM's (I am assuming the valves are able to open fully now). The idle also seemed to be more smooth. All of this is of course subjective since anytime you make a change which should improve performance, it always FEELS like it improved performance. The butt dyno isn't nearly as accurate as hard numbers, so if I get the go ahead from the better half this evening, I'll be at the track Thanks again for the advise and will update you all on my progress.

Thanks Bill, Excellent link!!

All three of mine were F54 turbo blocks.

I know that there are narrow and wide 4-piston 4x4 calipers. The set that I have on my 280 are the narrow type and fit behind the stock metal wheel. They came off of a 78 Toyota 4x4. Good luck, mike

Wow, I really likey

I was unable to sleeve the L28 for an 89mm piston on the #6 cylinder. When the machine shop attempted it, they hit the main oil galley and presto...instant paperweight.

I have heard of people going as high as 90mm or 3.5433", but it took me sonic testing 3 engine blocks to get one that had marginally enough cylinder wall to do the 89mm or 3.50393" overbore. just my .02

Nice score!!

What year is your Z? I was able to use the stock length driveshaft in my 73. It JUST fit.

www.sdsefi.com

Proficiency is one thing, but desire currently rules... Yep, 2mm gasket is on and I don't wanna do it again so soon if I can help it.