Z-Gad

Thanks for getting the pic up for all to see. I have been waiting to get a glimpse and it was worth the wait!!

All I can say is WOW!! Can't wait to see it in Reynolds!!

A friend of mine is considering making a 4 valve L-series 6 cylinder head using 3 Nissan 4-cylinder heads, cutting and welding them together to make a DOHC Z head. It would also be belt driven as opposed to chain driven... Neat idea anyway.

Someone wrote a post regarding different stock intercoolers a while back. I haven't done the search, but I do remember the large NPR was the most efficient factory intercooler.

The vinyl tops were a dealer installed option in 72-73. I can't imagine they were a much requested option, but I did see a nice original white with a tan top a couple of years ago. Nice, but not nice enough for me

You may want to upgrade in the near future. In my 3.1, anything over 10 lbs of boost and the fuel pressure dropped through the floor. I went w/ the Walbro GSL-392 inline pump and no pressure drop, even up to 20 Lbs of boost (43psi baseline). I purchased it through Alamo Motorsports. I think it was ~ $150.

My local machine shop did the work for me. They bored the pin end of the rod for a brass bushing which would accept the piston pin (had to be special ordered for my pins) and drilled a hole in the top of the rod into the brass bushing to allow oil to enter, so the pin would "float" on a cushion of oil. I am not sure where to just purchase the parts, since mine had to be special ordered by the machine shop.

Very nice conversion. Keep the pics coming. Any shot of seeing the car in Georgia for the SE HybridZ event??

I would recommend anyone doing a 3mm overbore to have the block sonic tested first. It'll cost you ~$100, but that is much cheaper than having to do another block when you find out the hard way that the walls were too thin. I went through 3 blocks before I found one suitable for that large of a bore. If the water passages have been corroded too much, the cylinder wall (especially between the #5 and #6 cylinder) can be really thin and have the potential of cracking. (First hand experience)

I believe the ring lands are farther down the sidewall of the cylinder on a turbo piston, compared to the n/a piston. You can use the flat-tops, but you will be limited to how much boost you can run if your compression gets too high (atleast on pump gas)

For the money you'd spend for the swap...I'd have to go with a stand alone system to eliminate the the old EFI and gain the programmability. If all you really want to do is delete the Bosch stuff. Just my .02 P.S. I'm glad there aren't and B.S. flags on this site. Just one of the reasons I hang around here...

Installation is the same on the L28 as it is on any engine. Check out the site http://www.sdsefi.com/ and scroll down to the link at the bottom of the page for "Programming Basics and Installation Manuals". It goes step by step through a general installation with photos and all.

Yep, sounds like he set'em up to me. There's a white Galant here in Orlando that is pretty quick too. I believe he ran 12.1 @ 117 last night with full interior, etc. I am unsure of his mods, etc, but it is a quick car and suprises a lot of people...

I had mechanical lifter bosses made a few months ago with the correct size to fit the P90A hole. They worked fine w/o any problems.

Had a similar problem in my 77 280z before going turbo. It turned out to be a rusty gas tank. The crap from the gas tank was clogging my fuel filter and causing mysterious stalling, loss of power, etc. I had to drop the tank and have it cleaned. Fortunately it wasn't too far gone.

The L-engine program I located over on Zcar.com is pretty cool. it allows different head, block, piston and a couple of head gasket combos and computes piston/deck height, compression ratios, etc. If anyone wants it, email me and I will send it to you, or you can do a search over there to find it...

I installed new needles and nozzles 3 years ago, sync-ed the carbs and haven't touched them since (aside from richening the mixture slightly recently)I made a trip a few summers ago to Pa from Fl and got nearly 29mpg highway w/ the 2.8 liter, 5-speed and SU's. I get ~23-24 mpg in town as long as I keep my foot out of it. I did notice I had to richen the fuel mixture now that the cooler weather is here, so it is probably a bit less. It was 40 degrees down here this morning!!! Burrr!!!

Now that my friends is excess!!

Mike, dry traction is excellent (except cornering), but they are useless, even scary, in the rain. I would have gone with the Nitto if they offerred the size I wanted (235/60/15).

I'll have to go with the masses on this one. First go w/ the Nitto 555R's and see how much it helps. They are gaining an excellent reputation w/ the high HP cars. Nice and sticky and handle much better than the BFG's in the rain.

ROTFL!! I couldn't figure it out either until I got a mirror and saw it backwards!!

Yep, run it straight from the coil to the ignition module. It is a nice cheap upgrade from the points type distributor.

I got a feeling that you'll find that the broken pieces aren't water pump parts (unless the front cover is damaged), but probably piston skirts or ring lands.

I see, you wanna be able to take on the high HP Supras on their own playing field (80-180)