Z-Gad

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Kick @$$!!

Thanks SleeperZ, I was looking under the wrong link (turboneticsinc.com) You are right, it is near the T-66 size!! We'll see how it does once I get the right turbine housing. It came with an .81 a/r and I have been instructed to go with the .56 a/r.

I recently purchased a new turbo. I was trying to identify the compressor wheel. I checked the turbonetics web site, but couldn't find anything... I used dial calipers and came up with the following. The major diameter of the wheel is roughly 3.58" or ~ 90mm The minor diameter is roughly 2.68" or ~ 68mm Can anyone help me out on this one? thanks in advance, mike

the screws are an excellent idea!! that should hold you until you can get the one you need. mike

Excellent Rick!!

I believe it is used to "shim" the block after the block has been decked. If it is similar to the ones I have seen, you still have to use the head gasket on top of it.

You ned a temp motor? i have a solid turbo bottom end. Just put on your head and viola, you are back in business!! Mike

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Run a leak down. Hopefully, it is only a turbo seal. I realize you just got it, but we can hope...

You can get the 300 horses out of a non intercooled L28, but you gotta spray it to do it I would think

Nice numbers BLKMGK!! I have been waiting to see the dyno results and at only 1.6 bar can you scan us a copy to view?

Sounds like you are getting blow-by. Run or have someone run a leak-down test on it to see whether it is coming from the top or bottom end. If it is coming from the top, you'll feel air passing out of the oil cap or breather location in the valve cover. If it is coming out of the bottom end, you will feel air coming from the crankcase vent tube. In my case, it was coming from the bottom end and I had shattered ring lands on 2 pistons ... good luck mike

Killer Len!! i was giddy with anticipation as I read the story

STAND ALONE!!! pretty descent numbers though...

You can tell when you pull the valve cover off as to whether they are mechanical or hydraulic. There will be no adjustment if they are hydraulic. It will be obvious.

Mine is only oil cooled. I didn't hear you fried your turbo scottie. when did that happen?

Good call Lockjaw. It was a 360 degree collar, as it is held by 4 bolts. Again, good info.

Also, I forgot to mention, the fix for the "bargain turbo" is to have a collared thrust bearing section installed ($150-200 for the parts), which I am currently doing. Hopefully, it will be ready tomorrow. I so wish i would have done my research, discussed my options w/ someone like Turbonetics, and spent the money in the first place and bought the correct turbo. It would have saved me a significant amount of money (I am now up to 2 rebuilds on top of the initial purchase price). Also, the shop owner was quick to point out that the hybrid turbo i was running was fine for up to around 15 pounds of boost, somewhere after that is where the unit becomes unstable.

well i'm learning more and more about these things every day it seems. unfortunately, I am learning through the wallet. anywhoo... I am getting the car ready for the Reynold's GA meet. I had another head re-done further lowering my compression, installed a high-po puck style clutch I had made for me, and while removing the turbo from the car I instinctively went for the impeller shaft to check for any play. Well, I had some minor side to side play which was somewhat acceptable, but I had nearly an 1/8th of an inch thrust (forward/aft) play. having had the turbo rebuilt not 1000 miles and maybe 12-15 passes down the 1/4, I took it back to the place I had it rebuilt. After taking it apart they found the thrust bearing was shot. I said "How can this be?" and found my answer. They asked what kind of boost pressure I was running and I told them 20+ pounds. Herein lay the problem. The "bargain" turbo I bought wasn't made to run that much boost. There is a small plate inside the center section of the turbo which holds the thrust bearing in place. In the less expensive turbos (like mine), it is held in place by a couple of pins. When one (meaning me) tries to run or runs 20+ pounds of boost pressure, this plate lifts and allows some of that pressure into the center cection around that thrust bearing, not allowing adequate oil cooling and consequently burning out the bearing. The more desirable, higher boost turbos have a thrust collar installed. This thrust collar and backing plate are drilled, tapped and bolted in place instead of held in place by a couple of pins, securing the plate so there is no lifting. some of the better factory turbos (like the GN) have these installed, but they run like 12 pounds from the factory. Just thought I'd share the wealth I am gathering, so maybe some of you won't have to learn as I. Since this info was explained to me and my memory is about as long as my you know what... I may have left some of the details out. If anyone cares to elaborate on my findings, please do so

Searched and a post by SHANE. Good info on various intercoolers... SHANE Member Member # 1238 posted February 18, 2002 01:45 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- well the closest they have to my model(mine is 4 years old) is 2-225 700cfm. i still think it is too small 9x14x3.5" i guess i will shop around then for a better I/C. i was afraid of the NPR cause of the thickness. here are some flow tests on NPR I/C's from turboford. in case anyone is interested. DRHausee has an awesome program for calculating all of this. He is currently in rev 2 of the program. I have his first version and this is what I calculated: First of all, some constants: Compressor efficiency is 71%, compressor inlet pressure is 14.7psi absolute, compressor inlet temp is 80°F and intake manifold pressure is 20psi. This is for a 2.3 with VE of 75% at 5000rpm. Starion IC : (the bigger one) at 324cfm and 292°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.29psi. The outlet temp is 139°F, heat rejected is 52287 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 1217 square inches. Saab 9000 IC: at 332cfm and 295°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.81psi. The outlet temp is 123°F, heat rejected is 60350 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 1602 square inches. Volvo IC: at 331cfm and 293°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.55psi. The outlet temp is 126°F, heat rejected is 58809 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 1539 square inches. So it appears the Saab 9000 IC is slightly better than the Volvo. Now lets look at the Dual Volvo IC (like mine) : at 340cfm and 291°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.29psi. The outlet temp is 94°F, heat rejected is 73063 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 3077 square inches. I am not sure that these numbers are correct as Don's program looks at the numbers enters as being a single core IC. When the outside air hits the second core passing through, it is much warmer than the front row, so the numbers seem a little optimistic. Now lets look at the Isuzu NPR medium duty Truck IC http://www.turboford.org/npric/ : The smaller NPR IC: at 329cfm and 290°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.09psi. The outlet temp is 130°F, heat rejected is 55553 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 1404 square inches. The larger NPR IC: at 340cfm and 290°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.07psi. The outlet temp is 111°F, heat rejected is 64237 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 2018 square inches. Gentlemen! I think we have found a new intercooler! The big one (look at the attached link) is sweet! It will fit right in front of the ranger radiator, which makes it a great fit! Forget the starion, that thing is a turd. Now the downfall...the price, these things go for $250-300 on ebay. -------------------- SHANE

I replaced all of the hydraulic lifters with mechanical pivots. I had a machine shop make mechanical bases in the diameter of the P90A lifter hole and inner thread of the mechanical pivot. It cost $260 to have all 12 made, but they are really nice pieces and it is cheaper than replacing the hydraulic lifeters (if you can find them), not to mention the rocker arms...

Interesting... I met a guy about 5-6 months ago from Miami who said that someone broke into his rental lot and stole...yep, you guessed it... NPR intercoolers out of 20 some odd trucks. careful these don't burn your fingers

That looks like the NPR that I run. I had to cap and extend the driver's side on the tank, but the passenger's side could be left alone. As for the mandrel bends, JC Whitney 2.5" OD, 180 degree u-bend is $13.25 here's the link http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=14721&BQ=jcw2

I went with the Walbro GSL-392. It is the high volume inline pump Walbro sells. I got it from Alamo Motorsports and paid 165.89 shipped. Their number is 321 722-0498 if you wanna check them out. I have had no pressure drop with 43psi base up to 63 psi (22 lbs of boost).

Well, you could drill the areas w/ a 1/4 inch bit through the quarter panel to the "fuel filler box" and spot weld it in place and use an automotive sealer of some sort to seal the crevice. One of those rubber flaps I believe helps keep some of the moisture out of that area as well. Those tricky Japanese must have put it there for a reason

I like it... my first glimpse at a Sonnet