Jump to content
HybridZ

Z-Gad

Donating Members
  • Posts

    1548
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Z-Gad

  1. reclocking is pretty easy. all you have to do is loosen the bolts around the compressor...should be around 6 of them and turn the compressor housing. As Brad-manQ45 said, you may need to move or change the wastegate actuator bracket though (assuming it is an intergral wastegated turbo). If you get really lucky, your reclocking would simply position the actuator directly into the next set of holes....but it never works out that way...atleast for me
  2. The hydraulic lifters for all intensive purposes look identical to the normal ones. I compared my turbo lifters to non-turbo and I couldn't tell them apart. go figure...
  3. I'll be there Jeff. Hopefully It'll be ready to make the trip.
  4. Whew Tony, sounds like you've got your ducks in a row alright!! My set-up is as follows... 3.1 liter L28 w/ cast pistons 8.5:1 compression ... (no detonation, no problems) 440cc R/C injectors Mercedes 67.5 mm throttlebody, ported and powdercoated 75 intake Ported and polished P90A head, swirl polished valves, performance valve springs, new hydraulic rockers, and stock turbo cam T3/T4 hybrid turbo Turbo X/S BOV Scottie's SS downpipe w/ 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust Bosch 95psi pump NPR intercooler w/ 2.5" tubing SDS engine management 83 stock turbo clutch 77 5-speed 3:54 rear I have driven the car back and forth from the welding shop, but haven't begun to tune the SDS yet. I haven't run it with any boost yet either. I just placed an extra air filter on the t/b to get it there and back. Initially I plan on keeping it under the 300 hp range (I'm a bit paranoid about throwing a bunch of boost at a new engine.) After a good break-in, I hope to eclipse the 350 hp mark. I like the idea of a Supra powered Z. My set-up is currently in a 77Z. It isn't much to look at, but the frame was solid, so it makes a good guinea pig for me. Living in Fla, we haven't any smog test, state inspections, etc...which can be both good and bad... anyway, I also have a 71 body which I have replaced practically the whole uni-body. When I finish with the body work, it may see this drivetrain...or maybe a Supra 2JZ...??? mike
  5. Looks great Tony!! The engine bay mine went into isn't nearly as nice as yours!! Looks Great!!
  6. Thanks BLKMGK. Hopefully I'll be boostin' by next weekend
  7. Oh well, copy and paste I guess... http://hometown.aol.com/gadwaw/myhomepage/photo.html
  8. If anyone is interested, I'm trying out my new camera and am not sure if this will come out until I try it...
  9. Hey glad to hear it is coming along well!! I'm waiting on silicone hoses for my intercooler plumbing and I'll be ready to start playing w/ the SDS and my first real experience w/ a turbo I can't stop smiling
  10. Scottie, don't be so hard on yourself!! Atleast your launch was great Dan, I disappiontedly didn't get to see you run. I don't blame you for leaving early. There were waaaaayyyyyy toooooo many cars there last night
  11. Also make sure the float bowl levels are high enough and equal. Get a couple of fittings and some clear hose and attach them to the screw holes in the bottom of the float bowls. If you have a mechanical pump, disconnect the distributor wire and turn the engine over to fill the bowls once you have everything hooked up... if you have an electric pump then it is easier... Anyway, you will be able to see whether or not the levels are equal and how high they are in the bowls. If the level is too low in either or both, it won't run properly... G-luck, Mike
  12. That just looks tremendous!! When are you coming down here to O-town to pay Scottie a visit
  13. Very photogenic car... Looks great!! "It's better to be feared than loved"...I believe that was Machiavelli as well!!
  14. I didn't read anything about a regulator in your post. It sounds like your carbs are getting flooded with fuel. Pick yourself up an adjustable fuel pressure regulator at the auto parts store. They are usually pretty cheap for the 4-10 psi range. I'm not sure what pressure to run w/ the webbers, but the SU's run great set to 4.5 lbs of pressure. goodluck, mike
  15. Oops, I lied...I just cheched out the pic of the seats after I posted...mine are just like that, but black leather. I think I would have preferred cloth though. Black leather gets a bit hot w/o ac in the car...
  16. Dan, I scored the same seats at the local pick-n-pull (couldn't pass'em up for $35 each!!). They are in excellent condition and soooo comfy. The only drawback is that they are a little heavier than I would like...Oh well, they'll be going into the car soon anyway!! So, NICE CHOICE IN SEATS!! mike
  17. Z-Gad

    driveshaft bolts?

    one diff I had to pull out of the car and cut the driveshaft bolts off w/ a die grinder. It didn't take too long once I got the rear and driveshaft out of the car!!
  18. A little caveat here... I heard the other day that the main cause for warpage in brake rotors is tightening down the lugs too tight (like with an impact wrench)...makes sense...thought I'd pass it along...
  19. Switching the auto to a manual may not be that easy. Both of the 83 turbo automatics I picked up had a larger outer diameter crankshaft. It was the same diameter coming out of the engine, but had a ridge for a larger inner diameter flexplate for the automatic. I didn't notice it the first time until I tried to put a pressure plate on. I don't know that they were all this way, but the 2 I have seen were.
  20. In my 77 Z I replaced the clock w/ a 2 5/8 boost gauge by just using the clock housing and drilling a couple of holes in it for the boost gauge outlet and light. Since I used the stock housing, it bolted right back in where it came from. Mike
  21. Norm, you could always bite the bullet and pick up a metal head gasket from Courtesy Nissan. I know $150 is a bunch of money, but it may be worth it in the time and trouble you go through having to replace head gasket after head gasket... jus my $.02 Mike
  22. It will show vacuum until boost is supplied by the turbo...
  23. Isn't there a cold start sensor as well? If that is staying open or closed or whatever (just reading that the engine is cold all the time), it could lead to both of the symptoms you are having. It's tough to diagnose via internet, but just another suggestion if you have already checked the other possibilities...
×
×
  • Create New...