theczechone

Well was working on the car today, and the tar was already loose, so I ended up taking it all off anyway. So now I gotta figure out a plan for sound and heat barrier

They are corbeau clubman seats, PO had them recovered to fit his Hakosuka

how did you attach it to the floor? with it being light i feel like it would just move around. Interesting idea though. Also do you feel like it's keeping the heat out?

Hi, I have been entertaining the idea of giving up my RB project to fund my street car. I have a 1971 chassis that's been completely stripped. A 4 point roll cage ( just rear hoop) has been welded in. The car is currently torn down and in primer ready for paint. I have a bunch of suspension/brake upgrades or can provide stock components. I also have an RB25det ready to go in, has an upgraded turbo, manifold, q45 throttle body, wolf v500 ems and bunch of other stuff. here are some pictures of the car in various stages. If it seems like this is something you'd be interested in let me know and I'll come up with full list of components and a price.

I wish i had started this when it was in the teens in my garage would have been easy to get stuff off. What did you do for heat insulation?

Yeah it doesn't have to be perfect, i plan to put some kind of heat insulation back and recover with new vinyl. just want to get the majority of it off. right now it looks like patches of pubic hair, which drives my ocd crazy.

Well I was taking apart the interior to redo the floors in the car and I found out that the interior used to be white. grr i love white interiors on orange cars, and someone savagely painted the interior black. oh well I think i will start searching for white interior bits, can only imagine how hard is it going to be to find.

@Dat73 your car is beautiful, how long did your R888 last, I want to do some autocross/trackday events but mostly just drive it to work or on some country roads.

so i'm in the process of replacing my floors in the 72 and when I pulled the interior out and pulled off the old padding over the trans tunnel, lot of it remained stuck to the car. Any quick tips on how to get that off? I don't want to remove the sound deadening/tar. Thanks

a less known tire option i just found http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-67-102-victra-ma-z4s unfortunately the VR-1 is not offered in this size.

Just a little update, have had a couple of busy weeks at work so not much got done during the month of March. But I did put in a new MSD Blaster 2 Coil to pair with the e12-80 280zx ignition, i finished painting my fuel tank and installed it. I tuned the SUs and checked the timing. My vacuum advance doesn't seem to be functioning. Hope to find just a new vacuum diaphragm but have been unsuccessful up to this point. I did pull the dash to clean all the air ducts, and leak check the heater core. I do have a spare so that one may go in. I picked up a set of seats from a local datsun enthusiast for a great price(thanks Jose). I'm picking up my floorpans on thursday, and i have an order in with John at Bad Dog Parts and the fun will start then. Picture of the seats

auxilary, those tires are great, unfortunately they are discontinued and weren't replaced in that size. The only Yoko option right now is advan a048 but at 230/ tire it's a bit expensive ryant67, I'm also interested in the the looks of your car with that set up. I was worried about the R888R in wet conditions.

Here is the car in question. In the picture the car has 15x7 or 15x7.5 +5offset epsilon wheels. Rear tires are BFG G force sport 225/50/15 (NLA) and fronts are Dunlop Direzza II 205/50/15. Suspension is all stock. There is entirely too much wheel gap on the front, and the 225/45 have the same OD as the 205/50, so that basically answers my question. Also i no longer have these wheels, right now i have a set of Rota RKR 15x8 +0 offset wheels with el cheapo 215/60/15 tires. They fill out the wheel well great but the car sits like a 4x4. grr. In hindsight i should have went with 16" wheels way more tire options. Jester, thank you for posting the pictures of your car. it doesn't look bad with the 225/45 but i will definitely need to do some suspension work to change the car's altitude to make it look decent.

Big fan of this car, I think those are 225/50 kumho tires on the rear Any other choices in 225/50/15 other than what's on tire rack? Would love to get a tire like Toyota ra1 in 225/50

Hi Jester, you have a 280z right? Are you running BC coils? Those do look small, unfortunately there is way better selection in tires for 225/45 than 225/50

So i've looked through like 30 pages of post your wheels thread and can't find the right picture. I would like to get new tires for my 240z, I have a set of 15x8 ROTA rkr with 0 offset. I would like a set of Hankook RS4 but they are only available in 225/45/15. I'm not sure how that's going to look on the 240z. I don't want a big gap between the fender and tire. Can someone post a picture of 225/45/15s on an 8 inch rim? Please also mention any modification to the suspension. Thanks

So, I'm back at it, I have purchased a second 240z because my RB project is taking forever and I am itching to drive a Z again. Here in Michigan it is very difficult to find early s30 with enough metal left to weld on to. Luckily i found a car that was driven here from Texas, parked in a barn (2009) and not really exposed to much of the snow, salt, and moisture. It still is not rust-free, far from it, the floors were patched at some point with fiberglass ( which is lifting off) and the clutch master leaked into the drivers floor and the brake fluid ate away whatever was left. But let's concentrate on the positives She is a 10/71 production date, in orange with black interior. The engine was swapped to a L28 out of a 75 or 76 it seems based on the intake manifold that came in the trunk, sporting some round top SUs. The trans is a 5spd, and the rear end is an open R200 unit, still need to find out about the ratio. To get the engine running all i had to do is drain the fuel, and hot wire the starter. She came to life but wasn't too happy about it. Got new plugs wires, rotor and cap and she purrs like a kitten. Still have some carb tunning to do but onto the next thing. Dropped the fuel tank and cleaned the inside. actually wasn't as bad as i thought, cleaned the outside and got some skillard stainless straps for it. Still have to paint it before i reassemble. The brake master and the clutch master cylinders were no longer holding fluid. For now i opted to replace both units with cheap rockauto parts. I'm saving the oe units for rebuild later down the road. I also opted to replace the slave cylinder on the clutch and the rubber hose going to it as there was a leak there as well. New fluid through the system and all is working as it should. I had some Epsilon Meshies that i was prepping for the RB car but since it won't need them anytime soon, they'll look good on the orange car for now. We had an odd 65degree day in middle of February in Michigan so i had to drive the car out for a wash. The next steps are interior, as with most barnfinds, the car was home to a family of mice. I found 4 skeletons and the air ducts are full of stuff, not to mention the wonderful aroma of mice piss through out the car. And here is my boy trying to take my car keys

I've just checked my stock and it seems that the extra light I have is the passenger side not the driver side sorry

I think i have a spare driver's side light. Will check the condition and post a picture for you.

Hi can you post a couple of detailed pictures? That would be helpful before I can make an offer.

Just like the title says I'm looking for the plastic heater control panel in decent condition for a reasonable price. I know there are some subtle differences between the 72 and 73 models. I think they are just cosmetic so I don't really care much. My car is 10/71

Hi guys, thanks for the input, really sounds like red coat is the way to go. I'm just not sure what to do with all the chemicals as you are finished using them. I still haven't figured out what to do with the old gas. The local collection agency hasn't announced the pick up times for this year yet. I live in city limits, so i don't just have a place where i can dump it. So i can't even think of a good place to get rid of that much acid or acetone. Plus i have tried to use the POR15 tank sealer before and failed miserably, my guess is that I didn't wait long enough to for the tank to dry. But i did have two heatguns in it for 2 hours on high so i figured it would have done the job. Anyway i ruined a 240 tank that way and I'm not looking to do that again. I think there is a renu place here close to me. I guess i'll see what they charge and if it's reasonable i'll just let them handle it.

siteunseen, what did you do about the internal lines to the tank? I would think that it would get clogged with the coating. It seems that the fuel tank was really clean after cleaning with the acid wash. I am leaning more towards just cleaning and leaving it as is. There was no coating on the inside of the tank from factory so assuming you clean out the rust there should be no more problems??? Looks like you had a pretty nasty case of crud in tank, i don't think mine is that bad, while the fuel came out orange there was no crud that came out with it or bits of metal.

hmm interesting, when you say painted it, you mean on the outside?

So I recently purchased a second 240z. This one is a 10/71 car and has been sitting in a barn for the last "8 years" previous owner claims less but the tag says 2009. Either way I drained the gas out of it today ~ 6 gallons of it. It came out really orange, rusty color. What are my options here? Can I just run some cleaner through the tank or do I need to seal it?