theczechone

I found this thread on using a mustang TPS. But it's not specific enough, they were two engines for the mustang in 92 i assume it's for the 5.0? and seems like ZT-R bought the wrong one at the time lol. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102520-mustang-tps-on-q45-throttle-body/

Can you be more specific? Maybe a picture would help. I have some extra RB parts laying around.

If you replace your 280z strut isolators with 240z ones it will lower your car another inch or so. I have some if you are interested

Am I missing something? The rate does not change if you shorten the springs, unless they are progressive which they don't seem to be based off the picture.

Not sure to be perfectly honest, most likely user error. I am using a wolf v500 and while i have double/tripple checked the wiring, and i am still not seeing the response in the ecu as i would have expected. I.e. open throttle 100%, and ecu reads 75%, close throttle and ecu reads 10%. The ecu has a self learning feature to define the transfer function but i haven't had luck using that to fix the problem.

I think most of the "ebay" custom throttle bodies utilize the early Q45 style TPS. Unfortunately, those are pretty expensive ($150) and i believe mine is malfunctioning. I would be interested if anyone has found another source for these.

haha, there is a lot of auto correct going on in this post. I never got a deer shipped before but rock auto's shipping isn't free, probably on the order of $15-20 for the set assuming they come from the same warehouse. There is also a 5% off coupon you can usually find for RockAuto.

I have rota RKR 15x8 +0 with the vented toyota front caliper and they fit fine. I'm sure the 16" version would also fit without an issue

I might be buying these soon also. Did you get them from Rock Auto or find them cheaper else where?

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1984,300zx,3.0l+v6,1209507,brake/wheel+hub,rotor,1896 here you go, scroll down to performance section CENTRIC 12742034L StopTech Sport; Drilled & Slotted; 4 lug Info Front Left; Except SF Model $57.79 CENTRIC 12742034R StopTech Sport; Drilled & Slotted; 4 lug Info Front Right; Except SF Model

I know to be cautious. My 3.1L stroker broke a half shaft u-joint. While I was trying to "launch" it at a drag strip. Luckily it was the one at the diff so there wasn't much damage. So based on what I'm reading, my diff will be fine as long as I baby it, and then when I hit the lotto I need to completely rebuild the IRS lol.

So, I've been working on swapping my 240z with a rb25det. My target power is 350-400hp and torque around the same. I don't quite have the funds to upgrade the diff yet so I've just rebuilt the 3.7:1 R180 (open) I currently have. I've been loosing sleep over what will happen if it fails. So I guess I have two questions. What's the limit of the R180? What's going to happen when it fails? Appreciate the input.

I would just make sure to do a couple of test pieces, but you shouldn't have any trouble. My plan is to tack the exhaust together on the car and then take it to my buddy at work to tig weld it all together.

I haven't messed with them yet so i don't know, but i hope you are wrong on the welded part. I was following this thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7110952-15-quot-Epsilon-Sourthen-Ways-3pc-mesh-wheel-rebuild-refurb Seems like the same wheels. Either way i need to take off the tires and see. I could see that people would get these welded if they were having leak issues such as RPMS is talking about. I have been to pine engineering's website. But i wonder what the shipping cost would be. Probably negate any benefit of exchange rate? By the way those longchamps are beautiful! And yeah in hindsight this may need to be moved.

Not mine, https://porthuron.craigslist.org/cto/5872749823.html

So I recently picked up some Southern Ways 3 Piece wheels that i look to refinish over the winter. I think they are currently 15x7 maybe 15x8. I've got clearance on the back and i think i could go another inch wider on the front. Would really like to run a 235 tire in the back at least (225s in the picture). Does anyone have any spare lips laying around somewhere? I can't find any in stock anywhere, and I have a place quoting a custom set for me but the price will be high i presume.

Hi Bryan, I think i have some 240z ones, they only difference is that they are about an inch shorter, so they will essentially lower the car. Let me know if you are interested and I will check and confirm what I have ... unlike last time .. sorry about that.

The benefit of BC coils is really that the whole strut assembly moves up and down with the ride height. For setups like T3, and GC you are compromising shock travel with ride height. Hence why most people section the struts. I think what's important to note is that sectioning the struts with those setups is completely optional. If you are not looking to go very low with your car, and are only looking to add some clearance for larger wheels you can just modify the stock spring perches install the threaded sleeve and the 2.5" springs. This will give you a little adjustment in ride height but will provide clearance to the wheels, also if you are clever this can be done with zero welding. I think the T3 top hats will work with the stock rubber insulators so if you are looking to leave those in, you can.

My concern is mainly with the front setup. To aid in turning, T3 uses a needle roller thrust washer that is sandwiched between the top hat and camber plate. The conventional camber plate design uses a ball joint carrier to handle suspension shock loads as well as turning. While I think the T3 setup is innovative I think it has a flaw. The camber plate is fixed to the chassis, but the top hat changes angle as the strut goes up and down. The only compliance in the system is the thrust bearing, but it is not intended to be loaded in such a way which leads me to believe that it will fail prematurely. See the cross section below. I made a ( representational) model of the strut assembly to made sure i am not missing anything. In the section, The yellow is the camber plate, the red is the top hat, and the gray rectangular bit is the thrust washer. Having voiced my concern, i know there is a number of people using this setup so my worries may be unwarranted. The BC coilover setup uses a ball joint as used in a conventional camber plate. Unlike the T3, the ball joint carrier on the BC setup is steel, so it should not wear out as fast as an aluminum one would.

Hi The quality of BC parts is top notch. T3 provided a solution at a very reasonable price but after analyzing it i wasn't happy with the way the T3 top hats interact with the camber plates. My car is still deep in the project phase so i can't report on the ride, but from what i've heard, it's pretty good. I have both T3 setup and a BC setup in my garage so you can take a look at the parts before buying anything. I am an engineer for AVL powertrain, I have some colleagues that work on site at chrysler. You can come by and check stuff out, talk Z cars, wrench, drink alcoholic beverages in whichever order. PM me for my number.

Hi Justin i think we have talked on another thread. My strut towers were hacked up to begin with and about two years ago i decided to go to a T3 bolt in camber plates. I did a ground control type coilover setup, but i didn't like that the springs would be completely unloaded when the car was jacked up and I wasn't happy with the available suspension travel at the ride height i wanted to be at. So i decided to go with the BC coilover setup. I tried to adapt to the T3 camber plates, and Gabriel from T3 was super helpful, even designed a setup that would work with the BC setup at a low cost to me. But i wasn't very fond of the way T3 top hats interact with the camber plate. So i welded on my three bolt plates as i shown in the other thread.

check black dragon auto for the rear glass seal. they are going out of business and have some good deals. Also check with safelite, last i saw, they carried the s30 windshields and may have the rear seal as well, might be the fastest option. Plus you can find coupons online.

I came across this car and was wondering what the group thought. Here is what i found 1973 Datsun 240z Exterior: - White, repainted at some point (overspray on door seal) - Rust on both rockers near the rear wheel wells - bubbles on the fender wheel wells - Rust under battery tray - Rust on passenger side frame rail to floorpan attach point - Rust on passenger floor, need to check the driver side as well - Bubbles on the bottom of the doors - From 10ft away the paint looks ok, but it is faded and not shiny - 300zx ugly wheels - 280zx mirrors :/ - Bumper trim missing - Front bumper dented Interior - Originally red (only rear panels left) - Seats and door panels recovered ( not a great job) - Dash has a single crack - Headliner peeled off - Vinyl on trans tunnel replaced with carpet Drivetrain - Car has been sitting up but according to the current owner the car runs and drives. The current owner doesn't know how to drive a stick. - I would assume it needs struts, bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. maybe a clutch and some carb work. The guy inherited the car and is looking to sell it, his asking price is much higher than what i thought it's worth, but I'd like to get opinion from others.

You're in LA there is a ton of members in the area. Maybe you could meet someone to compare with?

it looks like your valance may have been shortened at some point, maybe for added flares? look at this picture, it looks visually different than yours https://s30zproject.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1030025-kopie.jpg